Buying advice challenger 180

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RustyBucketBay

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Hi All,

First post. Great info on the forums so thanks to all for previous threads. I’m based in Toronto Canada and looking for a fun family boat with some space when in-laws/friends visit too. Think I’ve settled on the challenger 180. Right size and 2005+ looks a little more refined (than previous challengers) and 2007+ appears to build on that refinement. Obviously 2012 being the final iteration, however looking to keep costs down.


So what year is the sweet spot for creature comforts, maintenance issues (lack of). Prices vary but most hovering around CAD$20 +\- is that good/bad or just what the covid market is. Some seem priced high with tatty upholstery not sure if these owners is just fishing for fools and their $$.

Also saw a 2001 utopia up for sale looks nice, know it’s 2stroke not sure if I want to mess around with 2stokes but is it considered a good buy @ CAD$8k? (caveat one in my area owner says it was blowing fuel pump fuse before they took it out last summer and not fixing it prior to sale)

All boats come with trailers. Some with wake towers. Any advice appreciated.
 
A 2008 180 SE just came on the market. Apparently new engine put in 2 years ago now has 40hrs on it. Asking CAD$24k (usd$19) Upholstery in good shape no wake tower. I am looking to spend 20k max (usd$16). $24 seems high for 2008? I’ve seen 2012’s go for 24.

What would cause the need to a new engine, ragging it around poor maintenance or just unlucky?

And 2008 180 SE good vintage in general?
 
Welcome, cheers from BC! I own a 2006 Challenger 180, bought it 4 years ago with 103hrs on it, it now has a little over 200. I generally I like it but often wish for a 2007 or newer for the digital dash. I believe the boats stayed pretty consistent for each model up to 2012 other than minor refinements (like the dash) and fixes (like the supercharger washers). I also wish mine had a tower but it isn't mission critical...yet.

I really like the shallow draft; while you still have to be careful not to suck the lakebed into the jet, I can go almost anywhere without worrying about smacking a skeg. The downside is that if your body of water is regularly full of flotsam, you could go through a wear ring per season like I have been.

It doesn't cut through the water like a deep-V does which I find makes it a harder ride in chop, I don't mind it but the family does so we usually stay in if the wind and waves pick up.

Driving wise, super easy and fun. Carves turns like there's no tomorrow and cruises comfortably at 60kph. If you've never driven a jet before, maneuvering is a bit different but having seamless F/N/R control of the bucket and a bit of practice makes it a very easy job. These boats are hyper-maneuverable once you learn the dynamics.

Maintenance wise, learn everything you can about self-maintaining your boat...it's taken me 4 years to realize that and I am starting that process this year (oil changes, winterizations, wear ring replacement, etc). I also just bought Candoo to try and further reduce maintenance costs. Buy/find the shop manual.

Cost-wise, the local Seadoo dealer had a 2009 180 in excellent shape for $24k (CDN); not sure of the engine hours and it did not have a tower so your find is maybe a little high but about right on, I think. The engines are pretty high-strung but durable...a failure could have been a number of things; I'd definitely ask why the swap...

Good luck in the hunt!
 
@jrsharpebc thanks for the detailed reply. Didn’t have time to respond at the time.

I let that boat slide but good to know that’s not normal. The Canadian boat market is funny right now, a lot of inflated asking prices. Like 10yr+ old boats asking for only 10% less than the new price. Obviously has a lot to do with covid demand on a lot of leisure items. That and the US border being closed lowering natural competition.

That being said there are some realistic sellers out there and right now I have 2012 challenger 180 (claimed 260hp - assume it’s 255model).

What’s the best way to identify the engine HP? And confirm boat year?
 
No worries agreed, the prices up here right now are grossly inflated...high demand, low supply.

Don’t know much about the 2012’s other than it was the last year of boat production for Sea-Doo. I would imagine that they are the best as far as creature comforts and options go.

Not sure how to confirm model year, maybe the smattering of warning stickers underneath the helm? (At least that’s what they are on my boat.) Same goes for horsepower, I know that in 2010 Sea-Doo started putting a 260hp in some pwc’s but I don’t know if they included that in their boats as well. The options list on the 2012 180 labels the engines as “supercharged intercooled” (215hp) or “supercharged intercooled hi output” (255/260hp?).

Have you bought that one or is it still a prospect?
 
Unfortunately a prospect. But have settled on challenger 180 or scarab 190, right size for us now and fuel economy won’t be as high as dual jet larger boats. Also allows for reasonable sized car which I am in the middle of upgrading the family car to something that can tow. We collect the new car next week so I can be more serious about the boat acquisition.

I checked the pics and the one I’m eyeing has “4 tech - supercharged - intercooled” on the engine cover.

Sans covid what was a fair price for a good condition 2012 challenger with Bimini (no tower) and trailer 150hrs 255hp? Just to get an idea if I’m onto a good deal or an inflated price. Obviously market demands and if I want one this year will have to decide to flex or not but good to know as once covid is over prices (and my future return) will drop.
 
They are great sized boats.

Price-wise, my dealer in BC had the ‘09 for $24k and they said they could give me around $11k for my ‘06 if I wanted to trade it in (then prob flip at $14k or more...).

I’ve seen prices run the gamut, there’s an ‘06 on kijiji right now for $24k! [emoji15] Over double what I paid 5 years ago for mine.

For a ‘12 in decent shape, I’d think $25k, but I am absolutely no expert. And the boats haven’t changed all that much in the years, an ‘06 is pretty close to a ‘12 in most aspects and especially if the older one has been well looked after.
 
I think jr is right on. Used boats are very scarce both sides of the border, driving prices way up. I got a 2012 Challenger 230 in “good” condition 80 hours for 25K US, but I think I was in the right place at the right time, and shopping for a Yamaha. 25K CAD for a good 2012 180 sound about right, even if inflated by normal standards.
 
Cheers jr & joe. That gives me a good point of reference.

I’m hoping to view one next weekend. Is there obvious things to check. Ideally I’ll get a water test but what should I look over both on the water and on land.

Is there an easy way to check the ware ring / impeller condition? Or is that easier to assess by driving and its performance?

There’s a 210 going for 30k, I’d love the size but the dual engines will consume more and we got a GLk 250 to tow a boat max load is 3500lbs.
 
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Excellent!

You should be able to see the impeller from both sides through the pump and intake with a flashlight; make sure it looks clean and not damaged or nicked. Checking the wear ring clearance needs a feeler gauge but if you can see light between the impeller and ring, then pretty-good chance it needs replacing.

A 210 for $30k? Not bad, year and hours dependent. Dual engines are “dual” in everything: horsepower, maintenance, winterizing, fuel, etc. but having a second motor is a great backup if one goes down.

Towing would certainly be a concern, you don’t want to max out your vehicle based on the towed’s dry weight...fuel, toys, coolers, etc all add to the towed.
 
Yeah the 210 and 230 are future problems. Think the 180 is perfect for now. You know yourself you’re looking and see a bigger one for just 5k more. More boat more fun. But I’m on a small lake and just 4 of us 99% time. The 180 is tons of boat. Also smaller means I might tow it to Toronto or Trent Severn / other lakes for fun. If I got a bigger one just like you said I might Tow it 4 times per year max short distances 2 times to put it in and out for the season (10min drive from cottage to ramp) and maybe one other short trip/service. But I wouldn’t feel good about overloading the car. Also smaller means I can think about pulling it out after every weekend rather than leave it in.

I saw mention of blisters in the gel coat. Was this an older Sea-Doo thing or even “newer” 2010+ boats?

Thanks for the tip on the wear ring/impeller inspection. Any idea how much a replacement impeller and wear ring cost? I’d do the labour myself but if I see some damage I could consider negotiating.
 
Nice site!

I had to pull the plug on the viewing - damage on the hull through to Fiberglass. Not looking for a summer project before I even get on the water. And they had an SP too I just missed bummer.
 
I've had my 06 Challenger for 10 years and love it along with most of the benefits, however there are always some drawbacks. Not to discourage you, but just for your awareness.

First off gas consumption is not like an outboard or stern-drive. The high revving engine along with the supercharger use burns more fuel. Best cruising and fuel burn is at 6,000 RPM. Expect a full tank to last you around 3 hours at cruising speed.

Parts like spark plugs, oil filters, wear rings and impellers are plenty, but other specific body parts are getting harder to find as these boats were discontinued in 2012. I found a used fuel gauge on eBay after a year of looking. Yamaha or Scarab would be the way to go but not within our budget.

Engine noise is another factor. I love the roar but it can wear on you. You cannot have a conversation on the boat while cruising at 25 MPH (40 kph). Hey it's a sport boat after all.

If this is your first jet boat, you will need to get used to handling and maneuvering as the impeller is always spinning when the engine is on. You must also be very cautious around shallow water as the jet-drive is basically a large water-vacuum and sucking up tow ropes, stones or debris will quickly consume the wear-ring or possibly damage the impeller blades. Yes there is a Neutral and Reverse but it's just a bucket deflecting the water thrust at the rear. They are dogs at slow speed and a blast at cruise.

Most of the 180 Challenger dry weight around 2000lbs, so they are easy to tow, launch and retrieve, but they dont have a deep hull so you will get bounced around in choppy water. Also notice the bow how it dips down. It look nice but waves can easily come over if you dont throttle up to keep it raised.

While it can hold 8 persons (by weight or bodies), only 6 is realistic unless you're docked or have slender people on board.

Pre-pandemic a 2006/07 Challenger 180 would go for $15K CAD, post-pandemic if you can find any, they go above $20K.

As I said, not to discourage you, but just passing along my personal experience from 10 years of boating with the Challenger 180.

Happy hunting.
 
@frpole really appreciate the insight. and it is something I've been struggling with deciding. the maneuverability is something i would get used to, but will be a learning curve from 20yrs of outboards.

recently a 2001 Mastercraft X10 came on the market asking 30K (lol basically zero depreciation after 20 years! Covid eh) and they are super quiet (for a boat), better in chop, good wake and the prop is well hidden unlike and outboard/stern drive. I assume fuel economy would be better too. its since sold but it has had me reconsider.

I've always liked jet boats, the boat itself is the toy too, not just the fun you have behind one.

there is a lovely 210 310HP on the market but in Edmonton (im in toronto)
i also have my eye on a 205HP 2008 180 SE with minor wear
and a 2012 180 SE 260HP with unfortunate hull damage

I think i could get the 180's around 18-22k.

here is the hull damage on the 2012, walk/run/buy? price depending what is a repair like this going to cost. i wouldn't like to leave it in the water like this.
2012 180 SE 260hp.jpg
 
I forgot to mention that to find the model year on a SEADOO boat look at the last two digits of the Serial Number (also called the Hull Identification Number) located on the right rear side of the transom.
 
also just looking at that pic i see what appears to be evidence of salt water use, at the jet intake plate and the galvanized trailer. or am i wrong?
 
In my opinion I would consider the hull damage shown above as minor. It probably looks worse that it actually is. It's mostly gelcoat chipped off and unless you can see holes from the inside, which I doubt you can.

My son fixed up his Seadoo Jetski with a fiberglass resin repair kit from Canadian tire. You would just need to get some white resin to finish it on top. If you dont want to do it yourself, any marine shop can handle it, and I doubt it would cost more than a few hundred dollars.

Depending on the price of the 2012 and the hours, it may be a good buy. What's the wear on the 2008? And the price difference between the 2012?
 
both listed at the same price 24/25
2012 144hrs
2008 20hrs - new engine in 2015 (by previous owner) and basically no use since. aparently boat has 60-70 on it total. kind of wierd what happened at the 40hr mark to warrent new engine, perhaps lack of winterization.
 
If both same price I'd go for the 2012. You can easily get the hull damage repaired by any marina or make it part of the purchase agreement, after a water test. The gauge package on the 2012 is totally different and nicer than the 2008. I has a larger and external intercooler thus the 255 HP over the 215. Ensure you get the rear middle seat cushion as sometimes they go missing and are very difficult to replace. We dont have any salt-water around here so not sure why the intake grate has gone that colour. The galvanized trailer is an upgrade and will never rust, so that's a non-issue.

The 2008 is also nice if you can get it for 22K or less. These Rotax 4-tec engines are pretty much bullet-proof so either something failed or the previous owner did something he wasnt supposed to do, like fail to winterize it properly, or change the oil, or run it at wide open throttle continuosly.
 
Cool the hunt is back on. I will probably see the 2012 Monday, there are 2 other 2006 not too far away and the 2008 as well.

Do you have the name of that fiberglass repair kit?

i still find it crazy, new engine 2015, 5-6 years later 20hrs on it, I cant even imagine putting less than 15-20hrs on it per year let along over 5 years, 4hrs/yr average basically 1-2 days per year. guess that's why they're selling it!
 
I would stick with 2007 and above. I love my 2006 but if the gauges ever break good luck finding replacements, plus the 2007 SE models and up have the digital gauge cluster with a lot more features such as a depth gauge, compass, water temperature, hour meter and a larger fuel tank.

The repair kit was just Bondo, Photo posted below, that fills in the larger holes, then you'll have to get a gelcoat repair kit from a marina or marine supply to finish it off.

I was having a chuckle reading LionOnABeach's thread, because I did half that stuff too learning the ropes of jet drive with the older Challenger 1800.

Some folks that buy these boats cannot get used to the Jet Drive handling so they dont take them out as much. Once you get the hang of it they are lots of fun and you'll make excuses to head out on the water. I put anywhere from 20-30 hours a season on mine.


Bondo.JPG
 
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