97 Seadoo GTS adding bilge pump exit to engine vent? PICS INCLUDED

[SEABOOBS]

I want to add a bilge pump to my old Seadoo BUT I’m not crazy about the idea of putting a hole thru the hull for outlet. I’ve been doing research and found another poster with my ski put it thru hull on the side but it fills up his foot well with crappy bilge water (also not good). I have very limited space on the back of the ski do to this enormous hollow plastic engine vent system in the back. I suppose as the jet ski is moving forward air moving across the back vent sucks up air from the inside tube and draws it out the back. I was considering just putting the bilge exit port to the back of one of the vents drilled into the plastic behind it for the bilge water to just flow out the vent. The way the vent is designed I don’t believe water can travel upwards the exhaust vent and back into the engine bay versus just going straight out the back vent the way that tube is designed. I just wondered if anyone else thinks this may be a reasonable solution, poking hole in this plastic piece versus hull and still being able to see water coming out of vent. I would still put a high as possible loop between the bilge pump and the vent outlet just for extra precaution and that vent is above the water line. I attached photo of vent and the blue lines is what I believe is the airflow. The red X marks where I consider to install the outlet. The other picture is the vent on the back of the ski. Thank you.

 

[LikeabossTM]

I don't think a bilge pump is worthwhile in a seadoo with such a small battery, however, if I was going to do it I would install a proper thru-hull fitting. We're talking what, a 3/4" hole well above the waterline, 2 minutes with a hole saw, seems like no big deal.

 

[SEABOOBS]

I don't think a bilge pump is worthwhile in a seadoo with such a small battery, however, if I was going to do it I would install a proper thru-hull fitting. We're talking what, a 3/4" hole well above the waterline, 2 minutes with a hole saw, seems like no big deal.

I hear ya but not much locations in the back available & I don’t want it draining in my foot well so I just figure drain it out that vent.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sometimes it's best to locate the bilge pump thru-hull further forward to keep it further above the waterline in cases where the vessel doesn't have much freeboard and partial sinking might create a reverse siphon through the bilge pump outlet (while bilge pump isn't running, or failed for some reason).

It's also standard practice to loop the bilge pump outlet hose up high inside the gunwale before exiting the thru-hull, for the same reason.

It's easy to understand why you don't appreciate the idea of drilling holes in your hull, measure twice and cut once!

 

[JeremyD615]

The bilge pump outlet on my 95XP does drain water into my foot wells, but that’s so I can see it when it’s working... They make several different types, so you can get them to drain straight out the back. I’d definitely lean towards mounting it as high above the waterline as possible though...

 

[Ckrawiec]

Are your siphons not picking up the water in the hull? They should be sucking water out of the ski as the machine is driven forward.

The two plastic siphons located at the deepest part of the hulls are those little plastic boxes laying down there just held in with a stainless clip....pull them out and flip them over...I'll bet they are full of schmutz.

I'd also clean out the plastic siphon tubes too (the lines connected to the yellow elbows in your picture)....they pick up oily gunk over time and could be partially blocked.

 

[GGuillot]

I’m not crazy about the idea of putting a hole thru the hull for outlet.

I can understand this, on my 2 skis I ran it through the grab handle at the very top. I tee the 3/4" line off the pump to two 3/8" fittings which are blk anodized 45 degree that shoot straight back.

It's a Rule 25S auto bilge, I can set the switch at the ramp and forget about it, or press the manual override button which takes a spot on the info center.

People can say what they want, but it's piece of mind, whether there's a catastrophic failure at the carbon seal or when I dock and go into the marina for lunch. I'm not sinking if I can help it, my way of an insurance policy. I haven't done it yet, but it's a great insurance policy if I forgot to put the plugs in with water shooting out the back as a quick alert.

 

[etemplet]

I wasn't a fan of bilge pumps but my cousin is. When you see it pumping you got a problem. I installed one in my wife's ski. It has a minor drip coming from the steering rod. Ski stayed in the water for a week and I got tired of bailing at night before bed cuz it made me sleep better.. I think they are a good idea. They sure pump a lot of water.

 

[GGuillot]

I don't think a bilge pump is worthwhile in a seadoo with such a small battery

Draws less than 2 amps, fused at 3 amps. Worthwhile IMO if it keeps you from sinking. I've outfitted both of my skis with an auto bilge setup. I tested with the hose running down in the ski and it can move quite a bit of water out very quickly. If anything it buys some time to get started up or towed back to the dock without the hull filling up with water.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

A+++ for the bilge pump, IMO! Jet skis have a small bilge, thus can fill quickly. <O)

 

[etemplet]

I've been mulling over installing a dash light that will illuminate when the bilge pump comes "on". Not that I think it isn't needed, I just have too much other stuff going on.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I've been mulling over installing a dash light that will illuminate when the bilge pump comes "on". Not that I think it isn't needed, I just have too much other stuff going on.

Maybe a LoRa WAN iot device to email or text a warning?

 

[etemplet]

Buzzer and a light... now we're talkin.

 

[SEABOOBS]

I can understand this, on my 2 skis I ran it through the grab handle at the very top. I tee the 3/4" line off the pump to two 3/8" fittings which are blk anodized 45 degree that shoot straight back.

It's a Rule 25S auto bilge, I can set the switch at the ramp and forget about it, or press the manual override button which takes a spot on the info center.

People can say what they want, but it's piece of mind, whether there's a catastrophic failure at the carbon seal or when I dock and go into the marina for lunch. I'm not sinking if I can help it, my way of an insurance policy. I haven't done it yet, but it's a great insurance policy if I forgot to put the plugs in with water shooting out the back as a quick alert.

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Very nice install, wish my back handle was like that. I’m still brainstorming ideas, if that vent is too close to the water line perhaps adding a small pinhole to the top of the exit hose loop would help ensure it does not siphon in reverse.
My bailers work fine I checked them but they only work WHEN the ski is in motion. I already lost my last engine to flooding with salt water from a hose leak and found when it was too late. I’ve had this ski for more than 20 years and I’ve had a few “O, $hit we flooded” moments but the last one was catastrophic. I’d rather spend $100+ on a bilge system versus $1000+ on an engine swap.

 

[GGuillot]

Very nice install, wish my back handle was like that. I’m still brainstorming ideas,

I hear ya, brainstorm, that's what I did, the only way I could make it work was splitting the 3/4" feed into two lines.

I do see some potential at the lower part of the rear handle, you could drill through and route a hose (s) through. Have the line flush at the surface of the handle, splitting the 3/4" line off the pump to two 3/8" lines provides some ease of routing keeping the flow the same. Your idea of using the vent on either side or both could work, but maybe put a check valve somewhere to prevent back flow encase it dips below the waterline.

 

[LikeabossTM]

I hear ya, brainstorm, that's what I did, the only way I could make it work was splitting the 3/4" feed into two lines.

I do see some potential at the lower part of the rear handle, you could drill through and route a hose (s) through. Have the line flush at the surface of the handle, splitting the 3/4" line off the pump to two 3/8" lines provides some ease of routing keeping the flow the same. Your idea of using the vent on either side or both could work, but maybe put a check valve somewhere to prevent back flow encase it dips below the waterline.

Not to dissuade you from doing a pump if you like, but it should be noted that 2 x 3/8" hose definitely doesn't have equal flow rate as 3/4".

If memory serves the differential is like 3 gpm for the former (total) versus about 8 gpm for the 3/4" hose.

 

[GGuillot]

Not to dissuade you from doing a pump if you like, but it should be noted that 2 x 3/8" hose definitely doesn't have equal flow rate as 3/4".

If memory serves the differential is like 3 gpm for the former (total) versus about 8 gpm for the 3/4" hose.

I'm not gonna sit up here and do a mathematical calculation, let's just say the two 3/8" lines split from a 3/4" tee I did will move plenty of water very fast. I can leave the hose in the ski wide open and it will just about keep up. The Rule 25S pump is very powerful.

BTW, anybody can cut a big ass hole for a 3/4" ID fitting in the hull, the idea he has and that I had is to make it more inconspicuous and yet still effective.

 

[etemplet]

This works fine as far as I am concerned. I copied off my cousin. LOL

 

[JeremyD615]

Besides, a little bit of bilge-warmed water in the footwells can be a welcomed thing if you’re hardcore and ride in the early spring months! Lol.

 

[mikidymac]

Besides, a little bit of bilge-warmed water in the footwells can be a welcomed thing if you’re hardcore and ride in the early spring months! Lol.

You don't want any bilge water in your footwells. Any oil will make them super slippery.

 

[JeremyD615]

You don't want any bilde water in your footwells. Any oil will make them super slippery.

I was kidding, but I guess that probably should be clarified! I don’t see much water in the foot wells with the outlet pointing towards the rear of the ski...

 

[AKnarrowback]

Was thinking the same thing. Slime on the feet would make my wife mad.

Now have a space suit fitting on the old wetsuit to hook the pump up and give yourself a "warm up" on a cold ride........

 

[AKnarrowback]

I think that outlet system in the rear grab bar is pretty slick. Good work.

As for the carbon seal failing. I never liked that design, I went back to the old carrier bearing and seals from the early Doos.

 

[R-u-n2it]

The bilge pump is useful if you do stupid stuff like submarine, spinning in place with nose straight up, jumping waves and tail slide in water, this XP can drift pointing nose at a buoy while passing it and keep turning a 360 all while traveling in a straight line. Boredom is tough on a ski. Bilge should be in back where water is forced under acceleration, my bilge exit is the little black dot (3/4") between grab handle and Factory Pipe/Buckshot graphics in pic at left. And x2 on MIKI. Side note that I just remembered, most buy AGM or Optima non vented battery, use battery vent for pisser, can see it pissing under rub rail (on my XP anyways) while riding.

 

[etemplet]

Very cool stuff man !! Great ideas !! I have an XP and I"d love to see what it can do in the hands of a competent rider. I'm not into all that but... ya never know. I was a "crotch-rocketeer" before there was such a thing. LOL