XPS oil mixed with something else??

[Johnson8537]

Ok guys...

I bought an EXTREMELY CLEAN 01 XP 951 last summer. I have always ran XPS oil in all my Seadoo's, anyway...

Only took it out once and then put it away for the winter last year...



I have taken it out a few times this year and now it was time to add oil.



I went and bought some more XPS oil had a gallon lying around (I like to have extra!!)



Starting adding oil about 3/4 Gal and noticed that the oil that was in there before had a BLUE tint to it. This leads me to believe that there was something else in there NOT XPS... anyway.. as soon as i noticed I quit adding the oil.



Do I need to Drain all my oil and then re-add the more XPS

(This stuff isn't cheap $59 Gal at my dealer!!)



If I leave it what can/will it to the the XP???

 

[kustomkarl]

It is possible that the old oil was the same oil only a different color? Was it synthetic in it before? Is the new oil synthetic or synthetic blend? If it's synthetic then it is all the same. The difference is if it was mineral...as it won't mix.

Karl

 

[Johnson8537]

It is possible that the old oil was the same oil only a different color? Was it synthetic in it before? Is the new oil synthetic or synthetic blend? If it's synthetic then it is all the same. The difference is if it was mineral...as it won't mix.

Karl

New Oil is Synthetic....
Oil Oil ( I have no clue..)

Will there be an issue running it through the system???

If i have to I can drain it all out and put in new oil... But really didn't want to..

 

[kustomkarl]

Is there any chance of finding out what the old owner used before you owned it. If not you have a project on your hands...it can be done, and it's a bit messy but it's better than chancing it and seizing up the engine. I can post the walk through on changing the oil if you need it.

Karl

 

[Johnson8537]

yeah maybe a quick walk through on how to change oil would be great... I will call the old owner and see if he knows what was in it...
thanks again

 

[Johnson8537]

OK... I just talked to the old owner.. he said He noticed he was low on Oil the last time he took it out and just grabbed a Quart of Quaker State 2stroke oil at the Gas Station... Thats why the current oil has a blue tint to it... when i filled it up. (The resivoir was about 1/3 full when i added the XPS Sythetic oil..) Now its full

What do you think i should do Change it or.... Run it....???

 

[kustomkarl]

YES!!! CHANGE IT!!! that oil is not good... I'll post some information on the suggested oil from seadoo, that we already know, but you can look over too. I'm not on my puter, so I will search the forum from my other posts for the information and post in a couple minutes.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is the recommended oil from seadoo. See if you could confirm if you have the correct oil from the other owner. If in doubt....CHANGE IT ALL OUT.

Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.



Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;

After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. To drain the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber, use a shop vac to suck the oil out of the hose…it’s the one that is 3/8” diameter. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.

Karl

 

[Johnson8537]

Thanks....
Yeah I have had the XP out about 5-6 Time like this now it just has MORE of the correct oil in the system.

Sounds like Quite the process to remove all the oil!!!!!!!!
(I did talk to my Seadoo Tech and he said that I shouldn't hve to remove all the oil...
He said it is not reccomended but all the old stuff will burn out... and shouldn't hurt anything...)

I have conflicting statements.. so I might just pump it all out and start fresh!!
any idea on how many long this process takes the first time you do it??

 

[kustomkarl]

I only have my 35 years experience backing me up...certified by Honda and Kawasaki, raced standups as a pro for 6 years, and have been involved in 4 strokes and 2 strokes to this day...If it was me ...I'd want to be safe for about 2 hours or aggravation. Then you know you won't need to go back to the seadoo dealer to spend big bucks to repair it. If you take your time and don't make a big mess to have to clean up in the hull, it should be about an hour to drain and replenish. If you take your time maybe 2 hours. I think my quickest was 30 minutes...but that's me...My blind fold kept slipping...lol

I can only advise you on what to do...You need to do what you think is best. I gave you all the specs on the oil and the information direct from the seadoo manuals. I don't make anything up, and I get paid nothing to be here. I do it as my hobby to help out other seadoo owners. If you need more help or information, I'll be in and out all weekend...the waters calling me ...:rofl:

:cheers:
Karl

 

[seadoosnipe]

Stealerships....

I only have my 35 years experience backing me up...certified by Honda and Kawasaki, raced standups as a pro for 6 years, and have been involved in 4 strokes and 2 strokes to this day...If it was me ...I'd want to be safe for about 2 hours or aggravation. Then you know you won't need to go back to the seadoo dealer to spend big bucks to repair it. If you take your time and don't make a big mess to have to clean up in the hull, it should be about an hour to drain and replenish. If you take your time maybe 2 hours. I think my quickest was 30 minutes...but that's me...My blind fold kept slipping...lol

I can only advise you on what to do...You need to do what you think is best. I gave you all the specs on the oil and the information direct from the seadoo manuals. I don't make anything up, and I get paid nothing to be here. I do it as my hobby to help out other seadoo owners. If you need more help or information, I'll be in and out all weekend...the waters calling me ...:rofl:

:cheers:
Karl

I'd trust Karl over a "stealership"...........he's going to tell you what he wants. He can be truthful and tell you that you cannot mix the two oils or he can say, "yeah, go ahead, it won't hurt"......that way, when you blow the motor, he can look forward to you bringing it in to him for repair. Now, your out-a-luck and he's making a few thousand doing your engine rebuild........

Like Karl said, that guy pulled a bottle of TCW-3 oil from a shelf and put it in your tank!...........not good!....not good! Do I have to say that again.

This sounds like a huge pain to do but to replace an engine is a lot more. So, take the time to do this as Karl has stated. I actually remove the oil pump and have made a special attachment for my cordless drill motor and attach it to the pump shaft and spin it counter clockwise with the oil pump cable pulled to wide open, so I can be sure that I'm getting sufficient oil......

If you'd like to have that extra edge of security while the system is purging air, in case you did not get it all out, then add 16 oz. of your injector oil to 10 gallons of gas. This is the equivalent of a ratio of 80:1 (only for that one tank of gas).

One last thing......you can go from mineral to synthetic with no issue but not from synthetic to mineral. But, in your case, you can't mix TCW-2, NMMA oils at all!....so you have to do a complete clean out.

I also use the Quicksilver brand of "full synthetic" oil from Walmart. It's $37 dollars a gallon. I do not have a Seadoo dealership in my area. The closest one is about 75 miles away. The Quicksilver brand of Non NMMA oils is a low ash oil that meets the requirements of BRP. They make TCW-3 oils also, so make sure you read the back of the bottle to make sure you've got the right one if you decide to use it (it's a lot cheaper than BRP). It's located in the automotive section of Walmart, in a gallon jug with a purple label...........:cheers:

 

[Johnson8537]

I'd trust Karl over a "stealership"...........he's going to tell you what he wants. He can be truthful and tell you that you cannot mix the two oils or he can say, "yeah, go ahead, it won't hurt"......that way, when you blow the motor, he can look forward to you bringing it in to him for repair. Now, your out-a-luck and he's making a few thousand doing your engine rebuild........

Like Karl said, that guy pulled a bottle of TCW-3 oil from a shelf and put it in your tank!...........not good!....not good! Do I have to say that again.

This sounds like a huge pain to do but to replace an engine is a lot more. So, take the time to do this as Karl has stated. I actually remove the oil pump and have made a special attachment for my cordless drill motor and attach it to the pump shaft and spin it counter clockwise with the oil pump cable pulled to wide open, so I can be sure that I'm getting sufficient oil......

If you'd like to have that extra edge of security while the system is purging air, in case you did not get it all out, then add 16 oz. of your injector oil to 10 gallons of gas. This is the equivalent of a ratio of 80:1 (only for that one tank of gas).

One last thing......you can go from mineral to synthetic with no issue but not from synthetic to mineral. But, in your case, you can't mix TCW-2, NMMA oils at all!....so you have to do a complete clean out.

I also use the Quicksilver brand of "full synthetic" oil from Walmart. It's $37 dollars a gallon. I do not have a Seadoo dealership in my area. The closest one is about 75 miles away. The Quicksilver brand of Non NMMA oils is a low ash oil that meets the requirements of BRP. They make TCW-3 oils also, so make sure you read the back of the bottle to make sure you've got the right one if you decide to use it (it's a lot cheaper than BRP). It's located in the automotive section of Walmart, in a gallon jug with a purple label...........:cheers:

Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!! I think i will drain it all out of the tank and maybe just leave the lines!! Since I am fairly new to working on PWC I would rather not hurt anything.. I think i might chance I bit of the oil still in the system. after i completely drain the resivoir, there should not be much of that old stuff in it!! I will also add a bit of oil in th gas to make sure i am covered!!

 

[Johnson8537]

I went ahead and hand pumped out all the oil in the resivoir... I left the oil in the lines because i dont have a manual and didn't want to hurt anything... I also added about 4 oz of oil to the gas tank to to make sure i am covered!! It might smoke a bit on this tank of gas but rather know i am protected....



I was wondering if the oil that i removed I could use in my Superjet??? I just hate to throw it out... 3/4 of it was the XPS oil!!!

Is the Synthetic XPS oil also rated at TCW3???

Will running Synthetic hurt the Superjet???

I figured i would be ok but wanted to ask the experts!! I assume the XPS oil is just a far better oil and has better protection!! due to the higher temp and compression the seadoos run!

thanks in advance!!

 

[Cid6.7]

I just did this exact same thing (but it was me who put wrong oil in to begin with) :redface:

I drained the tank (took line going to crank off bottom of tank) then drained the lines going to both engines..I also drained the return line as this was pretty much full of bad oil..I'm sure there is still a bit of the old oil in it & hoping I got enough of it out that it wont gel up..

 

[Johnson8537]

I just did this exact same thing (but it was me who put wrong oil in to begin with) :redface:

I drained the tank (took line going to crank off bottom of tank) then drained the lines going to both engines..I also drained the return line as this was pretty much full of bad oil..I'm sure there is still a bit of the old oil in it & hoping I got enough of it out that it wont gel up..

well mine probably has about 5 hours on it that way before i realised it had the wrong oil in it.... I think you shoudl be fine!!

 

[kustomkarl]

I went ahead and hand pumped out all the oil in the resivoir... I left the oil in the lines because i dont have a manual and didn't want to hurt anything... I also added about 4 oz of oil to the gas tank to to make sure i am covered!! It might smoke a bit on this tank of gas but rather know i am protected....



I was wondering if the oil that i removed I could use in my Superjet??? I just hate to throw it out... 3/4 of it was the XPS oil!!!

Is the Synthetic XPS oil also rated at TCW3???

Will running Synthetic hurt the Superjet???

I figured i would be ok but wanted to ask the experts!! I assume the XPS oil is just a far better oil and has better protection!! due to the higher temp and compression the seadoos run!

thanks in advance!!

I'm not sure what the Yamaha Super Jet is suppose to use for oil. Just don't mix synthetic and mineral oil together...

Karl

 

[seadooer]

is this a different type of oil that you cannot mix synthetic and mineral together because it's done in automobiles all the time....they even have synthetic blends. What harm can come from mixing the two oils together? anyone have a "color scheme" that can differentiate between mineral and synthetic? I heard green is one type, brown is another, etc...

Thanks

 

[Johnson8537]

I'm not sure what the Yamaha Super Jet is suppose to use for oil. Just don't mix synthetic and mineral oil together...

Karl

My superjet suggests any TCW3 oil

 

[seadoosnipe]

Old saying?....

There is an old saying.....I read this in my research somewhere...

You can go from mineral base to synthetic but you can't go from synthetic to mineral base.....

Yes, you are correct. There is a "synthetic blend" which is designed with some base oils. The idea is, it's specially formulated for this. So, if you just dump the two together, I don't think your meeting that formula.

Synthetic oil is a bit higher in price than mineral based oil but for the quality of protection from the molecular structure of the synthetic oil to keep your bearings covered better, keeping the friction at bay, keeps you from generating hot bearings.

I also use Synthetic now in my vehicles. The oil looks as new when I remove it as it did the day I put it in. I also let my engine slide to 5k miles verses 3. I use the Vavoline Synthetic in my vehicles and Quicksilver in my skis/boats.:cheers:

 

[mbuback]

Wow. I do not know how many years me and others have been putting TCW3 into my 95 XP. I even checked the internet last year because it just did not sound right but I found several posts that it did not matter, however I was not part of this forum. So it is possible that TCW3 has been in for at least 1 season and possible up to 4 seasons, now what should I do. I think I want to do the relatively easy method as I am kind of new to all this. I think I can pump out the oil out of the oil tank and add 4 oz to the gas. Is that the cliff note version to remedy this issue. Also, which oil should I buy. I saw several different ideas.

 

[JJinSC]

This thread has me concerned. I have owned my '97 XP since new. I have only run XPS in it, until one day either last season or the season before, the parts guy at the dealer gave me mineral oil. The same guy I had been getting the XPS from for 10 years. I told him I had been running Synthetic, he told me that it was ok to run the mineral now. I even re-iterated that my manual said it would void the warranty to run anything but synthetic in the XP model. He argued it was safe to use and I conceded. What do I know? a lot more now that I have found this forum. I ran that gallon, but when I went back I asked for synthetic and have been running synthetic ever since. I have not had any troubles and that has been at least three gallons or more ago. I put a lot of hours on my doo.

Should I be worried about cleaning the oil system at this point?