Winterizing and 4 Beeps Oil Sender Diagnosis - Mercury Optimax 250 Jet Drive

[Seadoo20]

Hi
I picked up a 2002 Seadoo Challenger 2000 with the Mercury Optimax 250 MT JetDrive 3.0 L V6
Its the end of season here its not going in the water till spring.
Previous owner said there was a beeping on the lake it slowed down he got towed to shore.
He said he heard intermittent beeps. There was oil and fuel. I am hoping it is a sensor ? Any way to check without purchasing parts and just replacing sensors with fingers crossed ?
Well I started up the engine after charging the battery and after the initial Beep at startup there was not 4 beeps 20 seconds later.
I don't want to put it in the water to see if it does the 4 beeps again - maybe under load for me and maybe have to be towed in.

edit
Came across this video
4 Beeps Diagnosis

The video shows how to test the oil sensor.
So replacing the sensor in this case does not solve the problem. You need to replace the tank.

Winterizing
During my research I am reading this engine is no different that an outboard powerhead put "in" the boat with a Jet Drive. So any water you put in is self draining. Is this true?

Thanks for any information

 

[Seadoo20]

Well its been an adventure the last couple of days learning about this engine, research online and talking to a friendly marina.
They are so backed up the fellow was willing to give me suggestions to try.
I like to figure out how things work so this is what I would be doing first anyway before dropping boat off at a marina.
While running the engine in my driveway I was able to get the 4 beeps that the previous owner said happened.
I was also able after running 10 mins and some throttle able to get the solid horn as well.
Indicating Oil (lack of) or Water temp issues.
Marina told me to pull the thermostats and test them. I found out it has none. LOL So I dismissed over heating due to bad thermostats.
My oil tank on the engine looks low? See Pic. So today I am going to open the cap on the tank.
I am going to look inside at the position of the magnetic float. I am going to find a wire and see if it is at the top.
Then I will start the engine and hopefully the tank will start to fill and put cap on when full.
See if that eliminates the beeping. If it doesnt.
Some options next. Consider replacing the tank, Look at the water sensor and water separator.
Any other suggestions welcome.

10/23
So I went to the motor lifted off the cap on the engine mounted tank and with a wire tried to move the magnetic cone up.
I think it moved not sure.
Then I started the engine with cap off hoping to see it fill.
The remote tank level did not change but the engine mounted tank did lower.
So is this what is supposed to happen or is the oil level on the remote tank supposed to be at the very top?
The marinas guys I talk to can't give me a straight answer.
I am going to pick up a jug of Mercury Optimax Oil.

So I am not sure if I moved the remote tank magnetic cone with the wire (that the oil sensor reads) higher or not.
Or dislodged it somehow.
But I ran the engine for 10 minutes in the driveway and no beeping this time.
So at this point it leads me think the cone in that remote tank is the issue.


Winterizing.
The marina did say water is left in the exhaust housing. It doesnt drain completely by running it for 5-10 seconds.
They advised to get a hose put a tee in it with a funnel to add RV antifreeze to it.
I have a funnel kit I bought on Amazon for my vehicles antifreeze drain and fill. Should work for this.

 

[Tim75]

Well its been an adventure the last couple of days learning about this engine, research online and talking to a friendly marina.
They are so backed up the fellow was willing to give me suggestions to try.
I like to figure out how things work so this is what I would be doing first anyway before dropping boat off at a marina.
While running the engine in my driveway I was able to get the 4 beeps that the previous owner said happened.
I was also able after running 10 mins and some throttle able to get the solid horn as well.
Indicating Oil (lack of) or Water temp issues.
Marina told me to pull the thermostats and test them. I found out it has none. LOL So I dismissed over heating due to bad thermostats.
My oil tank on the engine looks low? See Pic. So today I am going to open the cap on the tank.
I am going to look inside at the position of the magnetic float. I am going to find a wire and see if it is at the top.
Then I will start the engine and hopefully the tank will start to fill and put cap on when full.
See if that eliminates the beeping. If it doesnt.
Some options next. Consider replacing the tank, Look at the water sensor and water separator.
Any other suggestions welcome.

10/23
So I went to the motor lifted off the cap on the engine mounted tank and with a wire tried to move the magnetic cone up.
I think it moved not sure.
Then I started the engine with cap off hoping to see it fill.
The remote tank level did not change but the engine mounted tank did lower.
So is this what is supposed to happen or is the oil level on the remote tank supposed to be at the very top?
The marinas guys I talk to can't give me a straight answer.
I am going to pick up a jug of Mercury Optimax Oil.

So I am not sure if I moved the remote tank magnetic cone with the wire (that the oil sensor reads) higher or not.
Or dislodged it somehow.
But I ran the engine for 10 minutes in the driveway and no beeping this time.
So at this point it leads me think the cone in that remote tank is the issue.


Winterizing.
The marina did say water is left in the exhaust housing. It doesnt drain completely by running it for 5-10 seconds.
They advised to get a hose put a tee in it with a funnel to add RV antifreeze to it.
I have a funnel kit I bought on Amazon for my vehicles antifreeze drain and fill. Should work for this.

oil---
On my 2001 240 eft, the small tank is filled from the large tank by pressure pulses from the engine crankcase. On the large tank- the cap with the hoses can be removed. On the bottom of the pickup tube is a large strainer. This strainer can get clogged and prevent the small remote tank from filling. Clean the strainer and confirm oil flow. Replace the cap.

Overheat---
If your boat has ever been operated in too shallow water or very muddy water, sediment can build up in the water jacket. The space between the outer cylinder wall and inside of the block. A few hot-cold cycles and long-term drying can turn this to concrete. I don't know of any way to check for this other than removing the cylinder heads.

Winterize---
Do you live where it will freeze?
My service book says my engine is self draining. As long as the bow is uphill, not downhill.
Check the service book for your engine.

Finding someone that will work on our boats is known as Mission Impossible. The very reason for this forum.

 

[Seadoo20]

oil---
On my 2001 240 eft, the small tank is filled from the large tank by pressure pulses from the engine crankcase. On the large tank- the cap with the hoses can be removed. On the bottom of the pickup tube is a large strainer. This strainer can get clogged and prevent the small remote tank from filling. Clean the strainer and confirm oil flow. Replace the cap.

Overheat---
If your boat has ever been operated in too shallow water or very muddy water, sediment can build up in the water jacket. The space between the outer cylinder wall and inside of the block. A few hot-cold cycles and long-term drying can turn this to concrete. I don't know of any way to check for this other than removing the cylinder heads.

Winterize---
Do you live where it will freeze?
My service book says my engine is self draining. As long as the bow is uphill, not downhill.
Check the service book for your engine.

Finding someone that will work on our boats is known as Mission Impossible. The very reason for this forum.

@Tim75
Thanks for that info.
edit
I just inserted another pic because the first one the glare, made it look really sludgy.
I let the oil run off. It looks ok to me?
The marina told me to just replace the whole pickup for $27 if I need to - dont attempt to clean.

I have learned when talking to the Mercury dealers to not mention Seadoo or Bombardier. Since the first thing they say is “we don’t service them”. So I call and say have a question with my Optimax 250 and there have been no problems getting info. A Yamaha dealer that also services Mercury is the one that told me the exhaust tubing in the Jet drive is not self draining. Maybe they are wrong.

I have a simple kit I use to drain and fill antifreeze on my vehicles. I can use that with a short hose connect to run some RV antifreeze through it if necessary.

 

[Seadoo20]

Three marinas confirmed to me that water is still left in the exhaust after running.
If raising the bow and running the engine without water for 5-10 seconds clears 100% engine block water, and most of the rest.
Why can't the bow be lowered and some RV antifreeze poured into both exhaust ports in the rear and left there?
Any benefit?

 

[Tim75]

Three marinas confirmed to me that water is still left in the exhaust after running.
If raising the bow and running the engine without water for 5-10 seconds clears 100% engine block water, and most of the rest.
Why can't the bow be lowered and some RV antifreeze poured into both exhaust ports in the rear and left there?
Any benefit?

Whatever the service book for your engine says.

 

[Seadoo20]

Whatever the service book for your engine says.

Mercury confirm along with the dealers that winterization of the Jet Drive system with Antifreeze is recommended. The information in this email really should have been a point in the attached Service List for the Jet Drive System .
Anyway - it only took 10 seconds to do and an hour of prep. I put a Rule bilge pump with output hose attached to the flushing port. The pump's two leads going to a battery. I connected the leads it started pumping in the RC Antifreeze and I started the motor. Engine ran 5-10 seconds until lots of RV fluid was coming out. I stopped the engine and disconnected a lead off the battery.