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Winterizing 4 Tec Sea Doo Speedster

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alindley

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So I have a question regarding winterizing of my boat. I was just wondering if I still need to have it winterized if I plan on storing it in a heated indoor garage?

The dealer told me if it's heated all winter long that there is OK to not winterize it? And if that is so what other things should I get done?

I was thinking I would get the oil changed, and than in spring before I take it out have the oil changed again and also a tune up?

What is everyones thoughts?
 
A couple of thoughts from a guy who has done cold and heated storage on many boats over the years...but by no means am I the definitive answer man on 4tech engines. I'm guessing you are freshwater being from Toronto...the salt water crowd will have far more input on that to official flush.

1. I've never done anything to "winterize" a boat that is stored in heated storage unless you have reason to believe that in fact could go below 32F in extreme conditions. I've had some owners say they are "mostly" heated unless we have the coolest winter on record.
2. Do your oil changes to get the old/dirty oil out in the fall so it doesn't sit over the winter.
3. There is no reason to change the oil again in the spring if you did it in the fall...unless you like spending money for no logical reason!
4. In my opinion there is no such thing as a "tune up" on modern engines with electronic ignition and fuel injection. A tune up used to mean many things including points, timing, distributor caps...
5. In reference to #4 the only thing of use (to me) for this antiquated term is new plugs ever year (fall or spring)
6. There is most likely a service interval every year years (or hours) for the cooling system but I don't know it.
7. If you have a Supercharged 4tec you'll need that rebuilt every 100/200hrs or every two years or tomorrow if you don't know it's history.

As it gets up there in years there are other things to consider such as cleaning throttle bodies, intercoolers, etc. but I think 99% of the people would just say drive it until you got an issue with such things...and I'm from that camp.

plugs, supercharger health, check cooling system levels and change your oil...rinse and repeat each season or mid-season in warmer climates.

EDIT: Also, I wanted to add about gas and storage. Some will say use a stabilizer in the tank before putting away...(i've never done so in 20+ years of boat storage) and this includes boats with twin 200 gallon tanks and many a center console with portables or internal tanks. What is prob a good rule of them assuming you have the budget is to top it off. The theory being is the less air in the tank the less chance for moisture to condensate and since these don't have a proper water separator...I guess it could be an issue in a really humid storage with an empty tank!?!?!
 
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I would still fog the engine if it is not going to run for a month or two (in addition to Carboncow's suggestions). Simple procedure, and helps keep corrosion at bay in the intake and cylinders. Other than that, clean it up, cover it , and store it.
 
I would still fog the engine if it is not going to run for a month or two (in addition to Carboncow's suggestions). Simple procedure, and helps keep corrosion at bay in the intake and cylinders. Other than that, clean it up, cover it , and store it.

Agreed but we only do it with carb engines...what is the best way todo with the FI engines? The tech must be different. Do you just squirt it in the plug holes and turn it over or do you go through the intake/SC in a way to stall it like we do with carb boats?
 
A couple of thoughts from a guy who has done cold and heated storage on many boats over the years...but by no means am I the definitive answer man on 4tech engines. I'm guessing you are freshwater being from Toronto...the salt water crowd will have far more input on that to official flush.

1. I've never done anything to "winterize" a boat that is stored in heated storage unless you have reason to believe that in fact could go below 32F in extreme conditions. I've had some owners say they are "mostly" heated unless we have the coolest winter on record.
2. Do your oil changes to get the old/dirty oil out in the fall so it doesn't sit over the winter.
3. There is no reason to change the oil again in the spring if you did it in the fall...unless you like spending money for no logical reason!
4. In my opinion there is no such thing as a "tune up" on modern engines with electronic ignition and fuel injection. A tune up used to mean many things including points, timing, distributor caps...
5. In reference to #4 the only thing of use (to me) for this antiquated term is new plugs ever year (fall or spring)
6. There is most likely a service interval every year years (or hours) for the cooling system but I don't know it.
7. If you have a Supercharged 4tec you'll need that rebuilt every 100/200hrs or every two years or tomorrow if you don't know it's history.

As it gets up there in years there are other things to consider such as cleaning throttle bodies, intercoolers, etc. but I think 99% of the people would just say drive it until you got an issue with such things...and I'm from that camp.

plugs, supercharger health, check cooling system levels and change your oil...rinse and repeat each season or mid-season in warmer climates.


Awesome. Yes all fresh water. I will be checking out the place this week to make sure its sound but they said "COMPLETELY" heated, no need to winterize your boats etc in the ad.

In regards to:

3) I was just planning on changing the oil in the spring as with cars, they usually say 5000 kms OR every 3 months, just not good to use old oil, just really want to keep this in the best shape as I can! But if it's not necessary i might skip it. Just had alot of issues with my old seadoo and I don't want to end up crying again :)
4) They just recommended I do a "tune up" after you winterize it and than summerize it, but I assume it just meant summerizing/spark plugs. But I don't know their process, that was just what the dealer told me before I found heated indoor storage.
6) Definitely will find out. The boat currently has 87 hours on it, in the manual it says inspect system at 25 and 100 hours, replace coolant at 200 hours.
7) I do have a supercharged 4tec, the manual says to replace Supercharger clutch (260 engine) at 200 hours. Is this something I should do before next season? Should I look into it at 100 hours or at 200 as the manual states? Getting very close to the 100 hour mark. I don't know the entire history as I bought it at 80 hours, but it looked very well taken care of from the previous owner.


I most likely will have a complete inspection done before I take it out next season aswell as the manual states to inspect almost everything at the 100 hour mark.


Thanks for adding about the gas, that was a question I had but totally forgot about. I used fuel stabilizer in my sea doo, but didnt want to this time. But I will definitely fill it up, thanks for that!
 
Manual says to do it through the spark plug holes. I also spray some into the intake while cranking it. (both in drown mode)

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My 2007 was new to me this summer too. I found out that back when it was new they said 100 hours or 2 years. Tomorrow if you don't know the history as it's been 2 years. The new kits say 200 hours and many still say 2 years. I'll go 200 hours (regardless of time) for my next rebuild as what came out looked damn good and the previous owner never new about the SC rebuild need and he had it 4 years. Do it when you got the time before you float next year for piece of mind. $500+ dollars if you can pull it yourself...easy easy easy job in my boat. Bought mine with 85 hours too...put 35 on it this summer already and it's our 2nd boat!

I still wouldn't do the oil twice. The three month rule is antiquated stuff from the old days IMHO! Again we've been doing it this way with big boats for decades...fall oil and drop it and drive in the spring!
 
Doing it in the intake...does that do any damage to the intercooler since it's a filter in there or is it OK since it's an oil anyways and the crankcase system dumps oil back into the intake too by default?

I've got a aftermarket K&N type filter, short air breather and catch can so I like a dry SC and throttle body.

Spark plug make sense as that is how we always did my Yamaha outboards with old school carbs.
 
3) I was just planning on changing the oil in the spring as with cars, they usually say 5000 kms OR every 3 months, just not good to use old oil, just really want to keep this in the best shape as I can! But if it's not necessary i might skip it. Just had alot of issues with my old seadoo and I don't want to end up crying again :)
4) They just recommended I do a "tune up" after you winterize it and than summerize it, but I assume it just meant summerizing/spark plugs. But I don't know their process, that was just what the dealer told me before I found heated indoor storage.

3) Always change the oil Prior to letting the boat sit for extended periods. As oil gets exposed to the harsh environments of the internal combustion engine, it picks up all sorts of contaminants in addition to breaking down and increasing in pH. Change the oil in the fall after your last ride of the season.

4) Do the plugs in the spring when you wake your boat from it's winter slumber.

I believe the anti freeze is supposed to be replaced every 2 years. I'll be replacing mine this winter when I change my oil (although our down time is 2 months at best).
 
Doing it in the intake...does that do any damage to the intercooler since it's a filter in there or is it OK since it's an oil anyways and the crankcase system dumps oil back into the intake too by default?

I've got a aftermarket K&N type filter, short air breather and catch can so I like a dry SC and throttle body.

Spark plug make sense as that is how we always did my Yamaha outboards with old school carbs.

I take the intake off the throttle body and stick the straw past the throttle body. Agree on keeping the the throttle body dry.

Probably overkill, but who knows.
 
1 last question, just got my boat back from getting winterized (engine fogged, oil changed, battery) and they added fuel stabilizer to the fuel. I had forgotten to fill it up as I was going to do it myself before I put it away into storage. I was just wondering if it is still safe to fill the fuel up to max? Or should I leave it the way it is?

I asked the service guy at the desk and he told me it's fine to just leave it as it is...
 
1 last question, just got my boat back from getting winterized (engine fogged, oil changed, battery) and they added fuel stabilizer to the fuel. I had forgotten to fill it up as I was going to do it myself before I put it away into storage. I was just wondering if it is still safe to fill the fuel up to max? Or should I leave it the way it is?

I asked the service guy at the desk and he told me it's fine to just leave it as it is...

There are two theories here and I'm sure you fine with either one, here is my take...

1. Fuel Stablizer is supposed to be measured out based on how much gas it's been mixed with. Assuming they knew how much was in your tank it's optimized for the volume it was added to. I doubt they new how much gas was in there unless they asked you...so they are guessing.

2. Common theory in big boats is to fill up the tank to full so you minimize the air space as that is where the moisture comes from...more fuel = less air = less moisture.

OK, I lied option 3...

3. It doesn't matter from my experience because I've done it all w/o an issue. Full, empty, stabilizer, no stabilizer, small tank, huge tank...boat always starts in the spring after 6 months on the hard as long as the oil is changed in the fall and fogging oil is used. Although there are some guys who even argue fogging oil is not needed unless you are putting soming away for long periods of time, but I'd fight them to the ground if they said it to my face!

You are safe no matter what you do...
 
There are two theories here and I'm sure you fine with either one, here is my take...

1. Fuel Stablizer is supposed to be measured out based on how much gas it's been mixed with. Assuming they knew how much was in your tank it's optimized for the volume it was added to. I doubt they new how much gas was in there unless they asked you...so they are guessing.

2. Common theory in big boats is to fill up the tank to full so you minimize the air space as that is where the moisture comes from...more fuel = less air = less moisture.

OK, I lied option 3...

3. It doesn't matter from my experience because I've done it all w/o an issue. Full, empty, stabilizer, no stabilizer, small tank, huge tank...boat always starts in the spring after 6 months on the hard as long as the oil is changed in the fall and fogging oil is used. Although there are some guys who even argue fogging oil is not needed unless you are putting soming away for long periods of time, but I'd fight them to the ground if they said it to my face!

You are safe no matter what you do...

Yes, thats what I figured... The one time I did use fuel stabilzer I knew you're supposed to measure it out, but i know my tank was less than half full and they said they used half a can of fuel stabilizer... So wasn't sure what to do... I'd def prefer to fill it up just to reduce the moisture that could build up but I don't want to mess up the ratio, but I'm also pretty sure they also didn't look or care too much about the ratio...

What would you recommend? 200 L tank
 
50 gallons is nothing to sneeze at so I would just fill it up and be done...no more stablizer IMHO.

I see you are in Toronto and I"m in Lake Erie so a similar world. My boats have been in heated and cold storage with no issues. Guys from FLA and other humid places may have different theories but for us middle of the road guys you are fine no matter what you do. If you want to part with some money then fill it up!
 
50 gallons is nothing to sneeze at so I would just fill it up and be done...no more stablizer IMHO.

I see you are in Toronto and I"m in Lake Erie so a similar world. My boats have been in heated and cold storage with no issues. Guys from FLA and other humid places may have different theories but for us middle of the road guys you are fine no matter what you do. If you want to part with some money then fill it up!

Sounds good to me! Thanks. I will fill it up as well!
It will be in heated storage, so hopefully a nice breezy start in the summer!

And what would the spring start up look like? Fire it up and go, if it's not running very well check the plugs ?

Changed my temp sensor before my last ride of the season and it was running BEAUTIFULLY (could barely see while my eyes were drying out)
 
I believe there is many ways to skin a cat and your pocketbook and personal time is as important as "doing the right thing". Although I think the rotax engines may be assembled in Austria we are not in fact on a German car formum...so there is in fact options here. (my joke is that on German car forums there is only one way todo things...the right way as defined in the manufactures technical notes or they will burn you at the stake)

so...

First is this a boat or an RX as in your signature, just curious...cause you are in the boat forum?

If you don't know the history hours on your boat/ski then I would put in new plugs so you have a good starting baseline. Some of us will do plugs after hours "X" and others just do them every year...or in my case I'm going to do them every other year. Bug me on Monday as this weekend I'm going to pull my plugs and check compression after running my boat 34 hours this summer. I'm curious to how everything looks after my first season with my 180C.

I'm not sure what Sea Doos spec is (someone will chime in) but if it was running fine when you put it away then you should be good. If it doesn't run well in the spring then I would never jump to conclusions on plugs (could be many things) but do yourself a favor and take 5 minutes to pull the plugs and see where you are at. You can always post photos here if you don't know what good vs. old plugs look like.

Many will tell you that the official thing todo including what you have done is do the plugs/compression and pull the jet pump to check things out down there including cone, lube, wear ring. It all comes down to time and money how much you want todo the "right thing". It's best todo that stuff on a new (to you) used boat so you know what you are starting with. For us colder weather folks doing this stuff every other year is fine too. Those FLA guys can do it every year or twice a year in some cases.

I found this video a couple nights ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxyfqDPoQ2o where he tells you what todo to de-winterize...but in my world we drop boats in the water, start them and then drive them because we did all the important stuff in the fall! This guy has a couple other good videos including how to winterize. Everything you need to know is on youtube if you google winterizing 4 techs!
 
Oh no, it's not an RX, that was my old sea doo.

I have a 2012 Sea Doo Speedster, bought at 87 hours, currently sitting at 97 hours. (I do not know the history but everything looks beautifully taken care of and he told me he did all maintenance at the same dealer I now go to.)

I think that's a good idea, I will put in new plugs just because!

It was running pretty good but I kept getting a code 0127, eventually it was found to be the temperature sensor, changed it before my last run and what a difference.

I was planning on bringing it in again in the spring for a full "check up". I wanted to do it as soon as I got the boat, but they told me it was atleast a 2 week wait, and I had bought the boat at the start of august so that would have left me with 2 weeks (a little more with the lovely summer we had) to run the boat so I figured I'd just take it out and hope for the best which seemed to work out great!


Thanks for the video, I will be studying this for the spring, I'm not very worried as everything has been perfect thus far, but really just looking to keep it that way!

Thanks.
 
So one other question.... over the past couple nights it's hit -1 to -2... there was actually frost on my windshield! I didn't get the boat anti freezed because it's going into heated storage, but they don't go in until Sunday!!

It's not supposed to drop under 0 for the next few days until it goes in thankfully but will those couple of nights under 0 be a big issue and is there anything I shoild do now?
 
So even worse than I thought...
Apparently it was -5 two nights ago for the night.... :'(

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I wouldn't panic. In my opinion, it would have to get below 0C for a long period in order to freeze hard enough to do damage.

Just an opinion, though.
 
I wouldn't panic. In my opinion, it would have to get below 0C for a long period in order to freeze hard enough to do damage.

Just an opinion, though.

That's what I thought, but I was reading a bunch of links off Google saying 26 Fahrenheit for 6 hours straight over 2 days is enough to crack the block. It's just outside right now with no protection other than a cover.

I also read that these 4techs are closed loop systems so there shouldn't even be much water in the system and when it was winterized most of the water should have been kicked out the exhaust anyways. I had an rx with a shit ton of problems tho so definitely have been trying to go well overboard in protecting this.
 
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