Winterizing 2012 GTI 130 questions (after searching and reading all the posts)

[kunzman]

My new 2012 only has one hour on it as I bought it end of season at a good price and no time to really ride it.
I need to winterize it and have found several different methods and am somewhat confused especially the fogging part.

Please tell me if the following would be correct:
I don't need to change the oil as it only has one hour on it.
I don't need to change the antifreeze as its still new.
I don't need to do anything special with getting water out of the intercooler as this engine is not supercharged, correct?
I will be using Sta-Bil to stabilize the fuel. I will do this first and drive it around on the trailer to ensure its mixed well in the tank. Next I will run the engine to get the stabilized fuel flowing through it. Should I do this running water through the flush port or will two minutes without be sufficient to get the stabilized fuel into the engine and not cause any harm. Dealer said you could run it out of the water for short period of time since it has its own cooling system. Is that correct?

Now comes the part I am confused on.
FOGGING PROCEDURE
a) Remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail on. What size is the exterior torx socket?
b) Remove the rail along with the three fuel injectors.
c) Spray liberally XP-S Lube into the intake ports. How long is liberal? Can says 15 seconds per hole which seems long to me.
d) Crank engine several times while keeping the throttle fully depressed (drown engine mode) to distribute lubricant in cylinders, on intake and exhaust valves.
e) Carefully inspect “0” rings condition before re-installing fuel injectors. Replace with new ones if damaged. Lubricate the “0” rings with a dab of oil prior to installing (doesn’t matter which type, it’s just to ease the installation).
f) Re-install the injectors. Apply Loctite 243 and torque the two bolts down to 80 lfb.in, that hold the fuel rail on.
g) Make sure there are no leaks at the injectors while cranking the engine over in the next few steps.

Other directions also say to remove sparks and also spray XP-S Lube into there as well and crank at full throttle (drown mode). Is this redundant if you have already sprayed into injector ports? Again how long to spray?

Here is my other point of confusion. Since mine is a 130 and not supercharged I don't need to worry about this step below?
16. On the supercharged, intercooled models, the exhaust system is self draining but the intercooler and manifold need to the following protection.
a.) Remove both intercooler hoses.
b.) Let the intercooler drain, then connect the bottom hose.
c.) Pour about 6 and ½ ounces of antifreeze into the intercooler
through the other hose.
d.) Then, pour about 10 ounces of anti-freeze into the exhaust manifold.

CAUTION: If you fail to put anti-freeze into the exhaust, severe damage may occur to these components. You will want to use 100% anti-freeze in these components because it will dilute with water left over in the system.

17. And lastly, spray the entire engine with with XP-S lube (or WD-40) liberally, over all linkages and all metal parts. Partially lift the seat to allow any condensation that may build during storage. It’s best to use a cover to protect it from the sun’s rays while stored.
So I am to use the same fogging oil on all the exterior parts as well? Seems to be a waste of expensive fogging oil. Do most people just use WD-40 for the exterior parts?

Thanks,

 

[TheGunMan]

Sorry to kidnap the thread but is it the same if I use WD40 or XP-S fogging oil?

 

[ski-d00]

I would change the oil if it were mine but agree it is not critical after only 1 hour but may be a good learning experience for you. It will need changed at the 10 hour mark.
Antifreeze basically will never need changed or at least many many years.
No IC or SC on yours, correct. So, skip these steps.
Yes, stabil in the tank but you don't need to drive it around on the trailer to mix. It will disperse by itself in 30 minutes. You will need to run it so that the stabilized fuel makes it up to the injectors. 3-4 minutes on the hose will work fine. You can only run for 10-15 seconds without the hose or the exhaust will over heat.
There should be a fogging port on your 130, it will have a yellow small yellow cap with a small hose connected to the air intake. These work okay but pulling the fuel rail in addition to this is a good idea. E8 socket for the 2 fuel rail bolts, E10 for the oil cap. I prefer to use a marine fogging oil instead of xps lube for fogging the motor. I spray 20 seconds into each inj port and yes it's a long time and will use at least half a can. XPS on the exterior of the motor is what I do. WD40 is not nearly as good as XPS lube, imo, it doesn't last as long and will just dry up over time. You don't need to remove the spark plugs if you are fogging through the fuel rail. Crank engine for 10 seconds continuous with throttle wide open to disperse fogging oil to cylinders and exhaust valves.

 

[kunzman]

Ski-d00,
Thanks for the response. I will look for the fogging port and fog through the injector ports after removing the rail. What I cannot understand is that the operator's guide only says to fog via the spark plug holes and doesn't mention the fogging port or removing the injectors. Seems like there is better advice here than in the manual. I cannot find the fogging port mentioned anywhere in the manual but it makes sense that it would have one.

 

[kunzman]

Done using the fuel rail method. I never found a fogging port though on this ski. Maybe only the SC ones have it?
Also, why does the owner's manual only recommend going through the spark plug holes?

 

[red2blue]

I expect it would be easier than dealing with the fuel rail ect.

 

[Mr. Howard]

I have the 2012 Gti 130. Manual says first oil change is 25 hours now. I don't winterize as I use all year long.

 

[Raytec]

Hello,
On my GTX and RXP I spray a lubricant into that yellow port on the hoseline and i fog the cylinders via pulling spark plugs. I figure a little extra lubrication to ward off rust is a good idea. ALso, Kunzman, I think you do need to run a little antifreeze through your manifold/exhaust since you live in a cold area like me(Colorado). Here's what i do:
1) Buy a male hose attachement(Ace Hardware)
2) Buy 3 foot of tubing that the male hose attachment fits snug into.
3) Screw the male hose part(with hose attached) into your flush port located in the back of the ski where your jet comes out.
4) Pour Biodegradable antifireeze into the hose using a funnel and hold the hose up high. Most of the anitfreeze will run into the engine but i also blow some through while the engine is running. A lot of it will get spit out the exhaust but what's left will sit in the low areas of your exhaust/hoses and replace any water that could freeze over the winter.

That's what i do,
Scott

 

[kunzman]

Hello,
On my GTX and RXP I spray a lubricant into that yellow port on the hoseline and i fog the cylinders via pulling spark plugs. I figure a little extra lubrication to ward off rust is a good idea. ALso, Kunzman, I think you do need to run a little antifreeze through your manifold/exhaust since you live in a cold area like me(Colorado). Here's what i do:
1) Buy a male hose attachement(Ace Hardware)
2) Buy 3 foot of tubing that the male hose attachment fits snug into.
3) Screw the male hose part(with hose attached) into your flush port located in the back of the ski where your jet comes out.
4) Pour Biodegradable antifireeze into the hose using a funnel and hold the hose up high. Most of the anitfreeze will run into the engine but i also blow some through while the engine is running. A lot of it will get spit out the exhaust but what's left will sit in the low areas of your exhaust/hoses and replace any water that could freeze over the winter.

That's what i do,
Scott

Thanks but the 2012 does not have a fogging port. I also found that the non super charged ones do not need the anti-freeze treatment. Someone correct me if I am wrong in that.

 

[Raytec]

Hey Todd,
Interesting that you don't have to run antifreeze through the exhaust system for the 2012. How do they prevent water from pooling in the lines or low areas that then freezes the winter? Let me know.

Thanks,
Raytec

 

[kunzman]

Hey Todd,
Interesting that you don't have to run antifreeze through the exhaust system for the 2012. How do they prevent water from pooling in the lines or low areas that then freezes the winter? Let me know.

Thanks,
Raytec

.

I believe it's because it's a completely open system.

 

[devonte007]

Theoretically, the non-supercharged 4-tec engines are supposed to be self draining. Meaning that all the water jackets in and around the exhaust system should gravity drain and not trap water. Most of us, thought, prefer to error on the side of caution and pump some antifreeze through the system for a little extra guarantee. I would rather spend an extra 20 min. at the end of each year to pump some antifreeze into the exhaust cooling system rather than find cracked engine parts next spring. It's your gamble....

 

[kunzman]

Theoretically, the non-supercharged 4-tec engines are supposed to be self draining. Meaning that all the water jackets in and around the exhaust system should gravity drain and not trap water. Most of us, thought, prefer to error on the side of caution and pump some antifreeze through the system for a little extra guarantee. I would rather spend an extra 20 min. at the end of each year to pump some antifreeze into the exhaust cooling system rather than find cracked engine parts next spring. It's your gamble....

Understood, just going with what Sea Doo recommends for the non-supercharged ones.
Mine is also stored in a semi-heated garage. It gets down to maybe only 40 degrees in there.

 

[Jafo]

I just start mine every month during to off season. My dealer said new models don't need winterising. But note where I live the temp stays above freezing.
2011 gtx 155