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Winterizing 2009/ 230 Challenger 430hp

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murray5p

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Well I tried it my self this year, I hope I got all the bases covered, Please read and comment if you see anything I should be doing. The boat will be stored in a machine shed Unheated, we can see -40c here, Boat has 24 Hrs on it and used in fresh water.
1-Hooked up hose to fitting at rear of boat
2-Started engine, then turned on water
3-Let engine run until I felt oil pan warm
4-Shut water off and shut down engine
5-Let engine sit for 5 Min. while putting oil pump hose in dipstick tube
6-Started sucking oil into a measured container (3.7 Litre)
7- Pulled tube up , held throttle wide open (flood mode)turned engine over, repeated
Steps 6-7 three times and retrieved the 3.7 litres
8-Changed oil filter, Put 3.7 Litres of New oil back into engine.
9-Pulled bottom hose off intercooler and drained low in boat, reinstalled.
10-Screwed a short hose into hose fitting at rear of boat, put a funnel in the end of
hose, started engine then dumped in -50c Plumbing antifreeze , while keeping funnel above engine, and watching to see pink antifreeze coming from exhaust, shut down engine, I put in 1 gallon of antifreeze in total.
11-Pulled off fuel rail, sprayed BRP anticorrosion for 15 sec. into each Injector hole, then Wide open throttle again and turned engine over a couple times.
12- Reinstalled fuel rail, sprayed engine with anticorrosion, as well as all the impeller from the outside, all the steering mech. etc.
13-Repeated steps 1-12 on the next engine
14- Stuffed all the holes at the rear with steel wool (Mice hate that stuff)
15-Cleaned the interior of the boat, laid Bounce fabric softener sheets all over the inside of the boat including under the seats.Machine shed gets mouse poison around the inside of the building.
I believe I have done as much as possible for the winter storage, can anyone see if I missed something. Thank-You
 
You can pour bleach in the bottom of the hull, rinse, and another cup of bleach to prevent molding. I do this after every outing though, because my boat take a bit of water on every trip. My engine bay smells like a nice poolside, bright fresh and clean.

Good checklist

:cheers:
Ernest
 
That sounds like a good Idea Gamerse, I think them dang little mice hate the smell of that also, as you can read I hate them around my boat or anything in storage, friend of mine had to redo all the seats and a bunch of wiring after a winter storage.
 
You might want to spread mothballs inside the boat - under and topside.

(Those things are really hard to get off the moths)
 
Ya us to put them in, in and other boat, man they stink, I found bounce sheets work very well and leave a nice sent. Had a hard time getting the moth to sit still to.:lol:
 
If I read your steps correctly, I would be seriously concerned that you are cranking your engine with NO oil in it. That's never a good thing. I've been looking for winterizing tips as I've just upgraded to an 06 Challenger and I've found a link from SeadooSnipe about winterizing 4TEC engines, which is what you have. Check this out. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=9132
 
frpole; I never started the engine without no oil, just turned it over a couple revolutions to get the oil out of the pump, I believe I read that somewhere on here to do that because you will not retrieve all the used oil.
 
SeadooSnipes Winterizing link has Excellent information. I did not do anything other then I explained because it was at the dealer last year for winterizing and I hope they did all of the check list, I only put on approx. 8 Hrs this year hardly worthwhile changing the oil. If SeadooSnipe could chime in I would appreciate any comments to make sure all critical points have been covered. Thanx
 
Murray5p, I'm planning to get my boat winterized at the dealer (including oil change) around mid-October (Thanksgiving), and I will ask the tech about cranking the engine to push out the old oil. I seem to also have read that because these engines do not contain an oil pan type reservoir, that some of the old oil can get stuck inside. From previous experience with car engines I can certainly tell you that cranking them (not starting them), without any oil will score the cylinder walls and piston rings. I just got into the 4-TEC myself and I found SeadooSnipe's links, so perhaps he can advise us.
 
How much more oil did you get out of it when you turned it over to get the rest out? Seems it wouldn't be worth the chance to get an extra cc or 2 out... to me anyway. I'm sure it didn't hurt anything. Does it say to do that in the service or owners manual?
 
It stopped sucking oil at just under 3 litres, after cranking I retrieved and other litre out of it, so in reality it still had a litre in it while cranking .
 
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