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Winterization...
- Thread starter Mikerd
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ORION '95 Speedster
Active Member
You can do a lot, or a little to winterize. This would be the minimum:
Follow the instructions in the owners manual.
Follow the instructions in the owners manual.
ORION '95 Speedster
Active Member
Non vehicle specific:
Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank, and run engine 15 minutes or more while the boat is in the water.
Fill fuel tank to full.
Start the engine, and shut the fuel valve off - run it until it dies from lack of fuel.
Flush engine with hose.
Spray a light oil onto all external engine parts that could rust.
Ensure that the engine compartment is completely dry.
In permanent marker on oil tank, specify oil type.
Inspect the jet drive, lube if required.
Inspect the oil injection system.
Inspect all control cables for proper adjustment and lube.
Grease trailer hubs.
Check trailer tire pressure and tread condition.
Check and clean the battery connections.
Place the battery on a "floating" trickle charger.
Hang up the life vests in the garage, so they don't mildew.
Wash the exterior of the boat with the proper type of soap.
Cover the boat with a tarp or OEM cover (preferably in a garbage).
Change engine oil and filter (If its a 4 stroke)
Perform a compression test.
Change all fuel and oil injection filters.
Drain the water out of the exhaust system.
Spray fogging oil into spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine several times.
Rotate the engine while spraying fogging oil directly into the carburetor.
Remove the rear drain plugs from the hull, make sure to tie the drain plugs to the steering wheel.
Inspect the condition, age, and expiration date of the fire extinguishers.
Check the condition of the on-board emergency medical supplies, tools, parts, etc.
That is not a complete list, but a start.
Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank, and run engine 15 minutes or more while the boat is in the water.
Fill fuel tank to full.
Start the engine, and shut the fuel valve off - run it until it dies from lack of fuel.
Flush engine with hose.
Spray a light oil onto all external engine parts that could rust.
Ensure that the engine compartment is completely dry.
In permanent marker on oil tank, specify oil type.
Inspect the jet drive, lube if required.
Inspect the oil injection system.
Inspect all control cables for proper adjustment and lube.
Grease trailer hubs.
Check trailer tire pressure and tread condition.
Check and clean the battery connections.
Place the battery on a "floating" trickle charger.
Hang up the life vests in the garage, so they don't mildew.
Wash the exterior of the boat with the proper type of soap.
Cover the boat with a tarp or OEM cover (preferably in a garbage).
Change engine oil and filter (If its a 4 stroke)
Perform a compression test.
Change all fuel and oil injection filters.
Drain the water out of the exhaust system.
Spray fogging oil into spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine several times.
Rotate the engine while spraying fogging oil directly into the carburetor.
Remove the rear drain plugs from the hull, make sure to tie the drain plugs to the steering wheel.
Inspect the condition, age, and expiration date of the fire extinguishers.
Check the condition of the on-board emergency medical supplies, tools, parts, etc.
That is not a complete list, but a start.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
The basics are....
1) Drain your fresh water, and put in a gallon or two of RV antifreeze. Then, pump it into each of the outles. (Sink, rear shower, front tap)
2) Drain/replace the stator and gear box oil. (you do not want water sitting in there over the winter if there was a problem)
3) Put fuel stabilizer in the fuel, and make sure it's run into the engine. (I like to put in a heavy shot on my last trip out)
4) Hose down any exposed metal with an anti-corrosion oil. (spray)
5) Make sure there's no water sitting in the bilge or hidden corners.
6) Cover her tight, or put her in a garage and wait for spring.
1) Drain your fresh water, and put in a gallon or two of RV antifreeze. Then, pump it into each of the outles. (Sink, rear shower, front tap)
2) Drain/replace the stator and gear box oil. (you do not want water sitting in there over the winter if there was a problem)
3) Put fuel stabilizer in the fuel, and make sure it's run into the engine. (I like to put in a heavy shot on my last trip out)
4) Hose down any exposed metal with an anti-corrosion oil. (spray)
5) Make sure there's no water sitting in the bilge or hidden corners.
6) Cover her tight, or put her in a garage and wait for spring.
ORION '95 Speedster
Active Member
Yes, the stabilizer is compatible with all types of gasoline and two stroke oils.
ORION '95 Speedster
Active Member
The two fluids are very compatible, so separation of the oil from the fuel would take far longer than the shelf life of the gasoline. Even if somehow there was any level of separation during winter storage, the fuel gets sloshed around and mixes as soon as the boat is in the water. For storage, your better off have a completely empty tank, or a completely full tank. Adding "Stabil Marine" to the fuel and then running that fuel through the engine will keep the gas and the carburetor(s) in good condition all winter.
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