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Well now what do i do?

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crowhater

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The site vendors are going to love me, every time I take the boat out I break stuff.

Today I took my 2005 Seadoo Sportster LE DI to the lake to test out the rebuild I did on the pump and she flew like the wind. The boat pulled to 6500-7000 rpm with ease but still ran a little rough at first. All I wanted to do was run some fuel through the engine and get everything cleaned out. After about 10 mins of run time she dropped power and finally died. When I tried to start it the starter just locked. I pulled the plugs and the aft Cylinder looked perfect but the front one was trashed. I can see metal in the cylinder so she is done. I pushed down through the plug hole with a screw driver and it will rotate fine but the metal piece will not let it go the other way. I saw that the vacuum line cam off the RAVE valve for this cylinder so could this have caused the failure?

Ok now what do I need to do? I see eBay has a bunch of Rotax top end kits, is this what I need? Or is there a vendor I should be using? Does anyone have a DIY write up on replacing the top end?

Thank you
 
If it is that bad I would just get a rebuild motor from SBT, or SES, but ask about their turnaround time first. SBT will be the fastest.
 
crowhater said:
I don't want to buy a complete motor. Has anyone done a top end job before on a 951?
Click to expand...

then you need to fully inspect the bottom end for damage. and if anything went into the bottom, the bottom end is sure to go Boom soon...

I`m sure many just did a top end kit on most engines...
 
I have not pulled it apart yet but if the damage is above and nothing went in the case all I want to do is a top end. Does anyone have some advise on pulling the top off? I can't find the manual for my exact boat but will any 951 engine manual work?
 
You really should consider a fully rebuilt motor and here is why..... That word. WHY. Why did you lose only one cylinder? It could be an oil injection system problem, but I'd expect both cylinders to be trashed. This failure makes me suspect (and its happened a hundred times) that the possibility of failed crankshaft seals could be the culprit. If that's the case you're going to spend $500 and melt another top end again.

I cannot stress enough that you should weigh the benefits of a rebuilt motor vs. a top end.

Top end-
Compression is restored to new
Base gasket is new
Head and other gaskets are new (exhaust)

Rebuilt motor-
Compression is restored to new
Base gasket is new and proper squish has been set
All new gaskets head exhaust case halves,etc.
All new seals
Refurbished crankshaft with new bearings
Balance shaft oil is new
NO FAULT WARRANTY
Pull it out, drop the rebuilt in. Probably in less time for you to do your top end.


Don't just hop on the bandwagon for a new top end, yes it's cheaper INITIALLY. But like I said, if you're unable to find out WHY then I'd hate to see you post that you melted another top end in a month.
 
I hear what you are saying but you are talking $300 vs 1200 for a complete engine. The both plugs were new and the back plug looks text book perfect. I don't know if this was the cause but the vacuum line came off the front cylinder rave valve. After church today I will put my psumatic tools to work and will have the cylinder head off. I know I can see some metal on top of the piston.
 
crowhater said:
I don't want to buy a complete motor. Has anyone done a top end job before on a 951?
Click to expand...

Then do the top end, and get a complete rebuild once the crankshaft fails, plus you may have to pay to get the hole in the block repaired. Your choice, pay now or pay later. These 951 engines only have a lifespan of about 200 to 250 hours.
 
Well the engine is wrecked, I pulled the cylinder head and both pistons are at bottom dead center. The front piston is trashed and for sure metal is in the case. Now I either scap the boat or replace the engine and I am not sure what is the best move.
 
crowhater said:
Well the engine is wrecked, I pulled the cylinder head and both pistons are at bottom dead center. The front piston is trashed and for sure metal is in the case. Now I either scap the boat or replace the engine and I am not sure what is the best move.
Click to expand...

I`d put money on the crank breaking. any rust at all on the crank and eventually it snaps.
 
The AFT cylinder is perfect it is the front cylinder that is trashed. It had a shot glass of broken piston on top of the piston but the top of the piston looked fine. The RAVE valves looked perfect also. The spark plug did not look like it went lean, the cylinder, plug, and cylinder head looked rich. The front piston was in the up position and the back in the down. I pushed down on the back and the front raised, when I pushed down on the front it just dropped down to the bottom. I did not take it apart any farther because it is totaled. Before it broke it was pulling to 7000 rpm but was a little rough at lower rpm off and on. The Seadoo was at the coast and it has never been flushed, no telling the effect that had on the water jackets.
 
Yeah, carnage is the correct word I guess. Nearly anything could've happened I guess, from rusty bearing journal before you bought it to an overstressed rod or a heat-related lean seize.

Is there any cylinder scoring at all indicating piston may have overheated and stuck to cylinder wall or do you think it just threw a rod due to bearing seizure?

What was RPM when it finally grenaded, any warnings like rod-knocking or piston slap?

You might be able to drill a hole in top of piston to extract it and get a look at the bottom end.

Sorry to hear it bit the dust. :( Yep, you're doing your part to keep the parts guys in business.

Edit: Might even have ingested water somehow, just a small amount could hydrolock a cylinder and shatter the piston or bend the rod.
 
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