Sorry for huge post, just bought 97 gtx and last Sunday got ski rope wrapped around drive shaft.Cut rope off of shaft. Rope never got in impeller was wadded up where shaft goes through hull.Carried back to lake and now sounds like its sucking air it will eventuality come up on plane then go a few feet and die.think its over reving.Pulled intake grate and pump skid plate off removed spark plugs and turned drive shaft over by hand watching impeller,impeller and shaft don`t seem to be bent but do have a pretty good gap between impeller and wear ring.Talked to a jet ski mechanic he said wear ring was bad also when i bought it you`d be riding along and it would feel like it had a power band it would just take off and go mechanic said this was a sign wear ring was starting to go bad. Help I wanna ride!!!
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Wear ring,shaft,impeller HELP!!!
- Thread starter billy62
- Start date
- Status
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
If you have to much clearence between impeller and wearing as you have said it will cavitate. Make sure that you seal the plate you took off back on good. and use a new neoprene seal to seal the pump back on. why it is dieing may be a fuel related isue. Do you still have the original gray fuel lines if so that is where I would start on the dieing part of it. as grey fuel lines are known to deteriate from the inside and clog internal fuel filters in the carbs. :cheers:
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is some specs on the wear ring;
Wear Ring clearance for your seadoo 1.0 mm or (.040in) Measure the clearance at the center of the impeller blades, with a 12” long gauge. Measure the clearance from the venturi side of the jet pump.
Here is some info on replacing the wear ring yourself;
Replacing the wear ring
For starters....
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impellor in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil
I hope this info helps.
Karl
Wear Ring clearance for your seadoo 1.0 mm or (.040in) Measure the clearance at the center of the impeller blades, with a 12” long gauge. Measure the clearance from the venturi side of the jet pump.
Here is some info on replacing the wear ring yourself;
Replacing the wear ring
For starters....
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impellor in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil
I hope this info helps.
Karl
Johnson8537
New Member
Very informative but where are the pictures????
I am newbie to this forum... all other forums I am on the DIYs have tons of informative pictures for us to help guide us through the process.
I am newbie to this forum... all other forums I am on the DIYs have tons of informative pictures for us to help guide us through the process.
The official shop manuals are available as part of the Premium Membership offering at seadooforum.com. The detail and specs (torque, runout, assembly diagrams) are indispensible for anyone doing their own DIY work.
Karl's expertise is top-notch. His descriptions got me down to my pump removal.
Following his detailed description of the pump repair will get you what you need short of using the actual shop manual.
atriot:
Karl's expertise is top-notch.
His descriptions got me down to my pump removal.Following his detailed description of the pump repair will get you what you need short of using the actual shop manual.
atriot:- Status
