Wear ring installation

[Hoogzy]

G'Day all.

I'm replacing the OEM wear ring in my Sea Doo GTI 155 SE with a Solas Stainless Steel one. Just had a quick question about installation...

The original one came out easy as after 1 hour in the freezer. The manual says to put the new one in, put the new wear ring and the jet pump back in the freezer...

Wouldn't I want to put the wear ring in the freezer, and the jet pump somewhere warm? That way the jet pump expands a little, wear ring shrinks a little and the whole process would be easier?


Cheers

 

[Nick Jacobs]

I could be wrong, but I do not think the stainless is going to 'shrink' any.
I just purchased a new jet pump housing, solas stainless wear ring, and impeller. Today I inserted the wear ring into the housing and it was tight. I was barely able to rock it. I tapped on it lightly with a rubber mallet and it seemed to go down perfect. I did not put any parts in a freezer.

 

[Hoogzy]

Cheers mate... I tried putting the wear ring in with them both (ring and jet pump) at room temp... Wouldn't budge. Took a chance and put the wear ring in the freezer for an hour, sat the jet pump near the heater and just tried again... Slipped straight in no dramas.

Will just let them both slowly return to room temp now

 

[pwgsx]

I would have stuck with the plastic ring IMO

 

[Hoogzy]

I considered both options and read up about the pros and cons of each... In the end I figured I have given the OEM prop and plastic ring a go and it let me down 10km from shore (no fault on their part, just crap luck). Figured I'll give the Stainless a go and very happy so far with the fit and tolerances.

You may very well be right, but it's a pretty quick and straightforward job to replace the ring and impeller (cost excluded)...

This n00b will learn one way or another if it was a wise decision :thumbsup:

 

[Hoogzy]

... that said, given what happened I was expecting to see more damage on the OEM ones when I pulled it apart...

Only had 6 hours on the clock (new 2017 GTI 155 SE on its 4 ride) when I felt a vibration and lost thrust. Shut it down and checked there was no blockage in the grate. Started it back up and could only get just above idle before it would start cavitating. Limped back to shore for about 2 hours.

pics below show the wear ring and impeller. Can't see any obvious damage on the impeller, but there is a large "scuff" mark on the ring that would suggest something was caught... Wouldn't have thought it would be enough damage to cause the caivitation... Welcome your opinion.

 

[lamajama]

Seems a stretch that would cause a larger issue but the proof will be what you report back if issue is solved. Let us know please!

 

[Hoogzy]

Cheers Lamajama, will do :thumbsup:

 

[ski-d00]

You had something stuck in your pump like a stick or seaweed. It probably fell out when you took it out of the water. Total loss of thrust is almost always something stuck in the pump. Slight performance loss is more indicative of impeller or wear ring damage.

 

[Hoogzy]

Cheers ski-d00, that's exactly the helpful advice I was chasing :thumbsup:

 

[Hoogzy]

Took it for a quick run today and went great... For about 15 mins before "BEEEEEEEEEEP" CHECK ENGINE -- MAINTENANCE REQUIRED... *sigh*

Turned out to be a P1550 (OTAS sensor) which should have nothing to do with anything I touched and more importantly wasn't going to cause any damage while I limped it back to the ramp. After shutting down and restarting, the fault cleared itself and did not return... Strange

 

[ski-d00]

It will probably return and a fairly common failure. Did you hit a big wave when the sensor went off? There is a magnet bar on the steering column that can slip out of place. There also is a sensor which also fails on occasion. I would take it to the dealer, if they are competent, and have it fixed under warranty. It is a pretty simple fix and easy to check the magnet position. The sensor is simple to replace as well but costs around $100 but would be replaced under warranty.

 

[Hoogzy]

Cheers ski-d00... Will take to dealer to check. I figure they may even be responsible. I had it in with them last week, before I even fixed the wear ring, to install speed ties. The front one is located very close to where the OTAS sensor is. It may have been something they have inadvertently disturbed

 

[Hoogzy]

:facepalm::banghead::lols:

Yay!!! Fixed it :-D :-D :-D ... Wait! What?!?

https://youtu.be/7DH4i-HWDEw

 

[freestyleHE]

Do the seadoos have to be sent to a dealer for maintenance codes to be cleared?
I just purchased:
(2) 2008 GTI SE 130 4-TEC
And I don't want to have a dealer to plug a BUDS just so I can get full power.

 

[ski-d00]

If you have a fault code and it is in limp mode, once the problem is fixed it will return to full speed and you don't have to have the code cleared as it will clear itslelf.

If you are just getting the maintenance reminder on the screen, then it is not causing you to lose any speed and is fully functional. To clear that, it will have to go to the dealer. Many people just live with it since it only is on the screen for a couple seconds when you put the key on. If you are having speed issues, I suggest starting a new thread and thoroughly explaining exactly what it is doing.