Guest_User
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Has anyone replaced their worn out or defective WCV in their boats?
If so what was the differences between the new part number VS the old?
If so what was the differences between the new part number VS the old?
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WCV, new VS Old?
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Guest_User
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Thanks Dan, I have the old (in boxes) and new (installed) WCV`s. There is def a difference between the 2 and the calibrated setting. Although the new superceded part number is spec`d for the challenger, I`ve read way to many threads on adjustments and how they affect or not affect peak rpm`s.
from what I can see, the orfice for the water box injection is a different size, the pin has more travel in the newer model.
The caps are different with a screw down lug on the new caps (not needed on this boat) and the water supply tube connection is larger than the original part having you squeeze/force on the small connection hose...
I`m sure my old ones, even tho they still worked when removed, are warped.
I`m curious to see if disassembling the old and new valves result in the pin being the same, the new body being the same and just a heavier cap and retaining spring, plus the difference in orfice size...
The older valves had a spec of 3 turns out, and the new ones are 4 1/3, that`s quite a bit without knowing why BRP changed up the valves and the larger supplying more water to the water box... hmmmmm
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anatomy of the old wcv`s.
On the Port wcv, found a small cut in the bellows, but it wasn`t thru. On the starboard wcv, I did discover the bellows spinning pretty easily when removing the calibrated pin and found the inard plastic piece loose and it just fell out... Good thing these were replaced bc that was a huge problem ready to pop...
On the Port wcv, found a small cut in the bellows, but it wasn`t thru. On the starboard wcv, I did discover the bellows spinning pretty easily when removing the calibrated pin and found the inard plastic piece loose and it just fell out... Good thing these were replaced bc that was a huge problem ready to pop...
Guest_User
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and a few more...
Guest_User
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seriously??? no one else has any in depth theory/fact about these WCV`s :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...sure-Regulator&p=323390&viewfull=1#post323390
Actually, I guess I never got too in depth with the new one other than the spring length etc and the cap for the bellows being different, which I think is a RAVE cap for the engine RAVES. And that was probably just to have commonality of parts. To be honest I know for sure the brass fitting was different between the two, and I set the red caps the same as how they came off, and the same as my Speedster, which IIRC is flush with the cap???? I wouldn't look for any in depth theories on them. I also never went by the clicks and turns, I measured mine from the top of the cap to the top of the red adjuster(don't remember off the top of my head). I verified against my Speedster, bone stock Rave settings from '99. Sorry, I keep the settings simple since I know my boat runs out all day long. Why mess with a good formula, right?
If you need anything just drop me an email, skip the PM's too hard for me to keep up.
Actually, I guess I never got too in depth with the new one other than the spring length etc and the cap for the bellows being different, which I think is a RAVE cap for the engine RAVES. And that was probably just to have commonality of parts. To be honest I know for sure the brass fitting was different between the two, and I set the red caps the same as how they came off, and the same as my Speedster, which IIRC is flush with the cap???? I wouldn't look for any in depth theories on them. I also never went by the clicks and turns, I measured mine from the top of the cap to the top of the red adjuster(don't remember off the top of my head). I verified against my Speedster, bone stock Rave settings from '99. Sorry, I keep the settings simple since I know my boat runs out all day long. Why mess with a good formula, right?
If you need anything just drop me an email, skip the PM's too hard for me to keep up.
Guest_User
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Thanks Dan, you basically just confirmed what I found. The first thing I did was chop off those ears to make it easier to unload the spring to remove the cap... but I didn`t use then anyway, the last wcv`s had good caps, which are still on the boat...
I went round and round when I first got these from PPG. One known guru said keep them as adjusted out of the box, and his shop foreman said flush with the red adjuster... so 2 different opinions on how to set them without knowing who is correct.
I can understand the old WCV being 3 turns or flush bc of the smaller orfice in the brass fitting. So it is possible that the new wcv is out farther bc of the larger orfice. I did note tho that there is more up travel with the new WCV`s than the old... quite a bit more.
I wasn`t referring to you, you have always been helpful to everyone including myself...
every onc in a while I`d like to learn something to, instead of all this typing!:facepalm::lols:
well I guess I`ll find out soon enough, maybe as soon as tomorrow...
worse case, they get screwed back in...
The base on the older units were different than the newer ones, the ports were different sizes...
Thanks!:cheers:
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jhjesse
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will do...
:lols::lols::lols::leaving:
Aren't WCV's sealed from the factory?? Mine have a seal on the top and the service manual say's to not adjust.
Hmmmm...makes me wonder.
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Guest_User
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Hey Jesse, hmmm mine were`nt sealed. just a superceded part number and slightly different wcv with different settings right out of the box... the chatter in the threads on the forum are confusing to say the least.
some say you loose rpm`s some say it doesnt matter, I`m just trying to isolate one area with "known" proven settings...
wish I had my hands on that service bulletin from BRP from way back when about the RAVE`s tho... just to be certain why there was a change in the exhaust adjustment.
but back to the wcv`s, would also like to know why BRP made the change with the new WCV`s. even though I had been running them since the boat was rehab`d last year, I was at the older adjustment, and just now returned them to the calibrated setting from whe I took them out of the box...
we`ll see soon, if there is any performance change...
Guest_User
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can ya take a pic so we could see where your red cap is at?
Thanks buddy!
Guest_User
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ok, update:
well the wcv adjustment did nothing. it is possible it made the tuned pipe a little hotter, it was warmer than before... still shy 500 rpms...
but I discovered something else. look in the build thread for the vids soon...
well the wcv adjustment did nothing. it is possible it made the tuned pipe a little hotter, it was warmer than before... still shy 500 rpms...
but I discovered something else. look in the build thread for the vids soon...
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
No problem Andy. I will get a pic this evening when I get home from work.
Guest_User
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wow, first time I`m seeing that. Thanks for sharing!:cheers:
so it looks like your red cap is about 1/8 above the black...
that`s where mine is now...
Thanks Jesse!:thumbsup:
Guest_User
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yessir, that`s exactly how ours was when I first got the boat, the RAVES were all the way down, and the WCV was @ 3 turns out/flush with the cap.
I`ve reset the new wcv to the calibrated spec, and I`ll return the RAVES to the down setting after I rebuild them soon...
with either Rave adjustment the valves did nothing, so gotta start over again...
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