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Water Pressure Regulator

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1GaryBryan

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Hello,

The water pressure regulator is leaking from the diaphragm. Should I repair or just eliminate the regulator?

If elimination is recommended, could you give me some tips or directions or point me to some resources. I do not and don't plan on racing the machine. Just fun on the water.

thanks for the inputs
 
why.... would you eliminate it? when you blow a tire, do you just say f_ck it and drive off?

lol

sorry, had to.

yes, replace the diagram, it's a common failure, the metal clip pokes a hole in the rubber piece.

replace it, and you will be fine. it is a required part for proper operation of the ski.
 
Thanks for the advice. Although the analogy was a bit flawed, but I got what you're trying to say. (no one drives around on a rim, unless it's a desperate attempt to avoid the law man)

Here's where I was coming from, If my water pump failed, I may eliminate the mechanical pump and go with an electric one.

I just read somewhere a couple different things like, racers eliminate the water pressure regulator, another talked about, you can install certain size fuel jet on the muffler and a different size jet on the mid-pipe thus effectively mimicking the regulator. I was just trying to explore the possibilities.
 
I'd keep it

1GaryBryan said:
Thanks for the advice. Although the analogy was a bit flawed, but I got what you're trying to say. (no one drives around on a rim, unless it's a desperate attempt to avoid the law man)

Here's where I was coming from, If my water pump failed, I may eliminate the mechanical pump and go with an electric one.

I just read somewhere a couple different things like, racers eliminate the water pressure regulator, another talked about, you can install certain size fuel jet on the muffler and a different size jet on the mid-pipe thus effectively mimicking the regulator. I was just trying to explore the possibilities.
Click to expand...

The rubber boot is easy to replace and fairly cheap. If you screw up in your attempt to bypass it or otherwise rig it, you run the chance of running your expansion pipe hot. Doing so may melt the silicone that seals it to the upper pipe (causing exhaust leak), melt the outlet water line (causing water leak), or worst of all melt the return oil line from your rotary valve (causing Oil Leak and engine DEATH). The water reg. is a necessary evil. I had mine improperly tuned (almost closed) and damn near melted all the way through that oil line. I caught it in time to save my top end, but not a nasty synthetic oil mess in my bilge :/
 
In my case I need the boot, diaphragm and c-clip. I think around $70-$100 for all the parts. Not to bad...cheaper than a top end!

You brought up a good point, proper adjustment. Could you elaborate on how to perform a proper adjustment? Also, any recommendation on where to buy the parts. Thanks
 
1GaryBryan said:
I just read somewhere a couple different things like, racers eliminate the water pressure regulator, another talked about, you can install certain size fuel jet on the muffler and a different size jet on the mid-pipe thus effectively mimicking the regulator. I was just trying to explore the possibilities.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is in the 96 Seadoo racing manual (page 03-35 to be exact). You can hard jet the pipe and the water box. Google Seadoo manual, visit the first link, grab the 96 racing manual, read above page and get to work if you want to.

What's funny is, the WCV for the 97+ skis you can get OEM new for $90.79, yet if you look at the one for the 96 it's lists for $222.49 but can be bought for $177.99. I had an extra for my Speedster that I put on my 96 XP, the only difference I saw was the spring was longer on the Speedster unit, all else looked the same. I just took the spring from the 96 XP and put it in the housing, IIRC. The ones on the 97' XP is 276000134 as well as the SPX's with the 787's, so I'd say the later cheaper ones are the way to go.
 
first
yes, you can bypass the reg, but in general i wouldn't suggest it unless it was part of other mods. think about hard jetting the waterbox about the same time your thinking factory pipe, ewci, and a new prop, otherwise.. no...

IMO replace the reg with a good used part, not a new one, and i'm guessing $50 shipped on one max. i'm all about OEM but IMO a $50 good used part will do the job quite nicely. If for some silly reason you can't find one for under $50, shoot me a message and i'll dig one up i my garage...
 
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Nick (minnetonka4me) has new OEM bellows, cheaper than anyone else, also don't use the stock "C" clip, it will rust and poke another hole in the bellows, use a cable tie instead.

Added:

I took this picture before I trimmed the little leftover tab on cable tie use a razor blade.

Lou
 

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Thanks for all the input gentlemen. [MENTION=29781]Spimothy Leary[/MENTION], thanks for the advice, makes total sense. [MENTION=17278]SabrToothSqrl[/MENTION], ebay was a bust, everything has days till the end of the auction, I want now. I'm sure many of you can relate. OSDparts had everything I need so I will be
ordering parts tonight. LouDoo, your contact was good, but had to send him a message; there's no where to order that I found. BTW, love your quote, "I would rather be lost at the lake than found at home." (Amen!)

When I install the regulator what base setting is best? i.e. two turns out etc... The new spring is a 44m if that means anything to someone. Thanks again for all your help.
 
1GaryBryan said:
When I install the regulator what base setting is best? i.e. two turns out etc... The new spring is a 44m if that means anything to someone. Thanks again for all your help.
Click to expand...

According to the manual, you're supposed to screw the cap down till it's flush with the top (it will probably be about there to begin with), then back it out two clicks. (not turns) You can tell if it's working because you should be able to rest your hand on the lower pipe, even after a hard run.
 
does "DISCOUNT05" still work at OSD Parts?

Sorry, i should have said that earlier.

I like them because their prices are good, and prices shipping is real world. with no order minimum.

I was unaware you were attempting to modify. We get a lot people who think that sea-doo actually included extraneous 'parts' on their skis.... lol

what you are getting at is "hard jetting" and it's not needed for rec ski operation. In fact, I don't see any real advantage. the OEM setup is such that at lower RPMs (exhaust pressure) the water flows in to cool the pipe, and at higher RPM (exhaust pressure) it slows / shuts off the flow to get better performance. seems to be a fairly good setup. Rigging it to always flow X amount seems like a step back.

You can tune the water regulator, but stock is most likely the best position for most people.

Turning it out will cut off the water sooner, while tightening it will allow water to remain flowing at a higher RPM.

turning it too far out may cause your pipe to overheat. I run mine about flush or about 1 turn out on a 951.

your settings will be different on a 787.
 
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[MENTION=63611]1GaryBryan[/MENTION] I sent yo a PM with the email address, might speed things up over PM's
I have a couple of them, found them last night but the bellow's weren't anything to write home about, so tonka is the way to go.
 
Are there any symptoms to look for which could show a bad water pressure regulator? I still haven't had my ski in the water and I'm sure one I do I will find more things to fix.
 
...or your lower pipe runs really hot, meaning your regulator isn't allowing enough water through. If it's adjusted properly, I don't see how this can happen unless it's totally jammed somehow.
 
The regulator is there as an integral part of cooling. During low and mid range it lets water cool the pipe and its rubber componets, and it
closes at high RPM so as to not restrict the engine torque. At high rpm, the engine cools well. Its job is to keep the exhaust from burning components. Your high HP Rave valve engine needs Proper maintenance will keep your ski running and performing 100%.
Both of the two components need to be adjusted to compliment each other, for best performance. Your shop manual tells you how-to.

Bills86e
 
The regulator is used to control the amount of water injected into the exhaust system at the tuned pipe head. Varying the amount of water injected into the tuned pipe head changes the exhaust wave speed by changing the temperature of the gas which results in a gas density change. This effectively creates a variable tuning of the pipe that attempts to optimize for engine speed and widen the power curve. The injected water also cools the pipe to muffler coupler.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
you sir, have read your manual :)
Click to expand...
I believe it says something like that in the racing handbook I read 10 years ago. In my day job I manage a group of CFD (computational fluid dynamics) nerds performing analysis on all sorts of intake and exhaust systems for all sorts of engine manufacturers.
 
yep, i have that manual too, the PDF from 1998 i think. SEA-DOO Racing Manual.

Maybe; then you can answer this question.

how many GPH is a 951 ski pump? - water GPH.

I want to know just how 'fast' these things are.

I believe it's a 155mm pump, with 3 blades, assuming a 20 degree pitch (I run a 15/20 prop) and assume a standard running ski of 7,000 RPM. I'm not sure the diameter of the hub though.

Assume also no mechanical losses, unless you can account for them. The stator should slow things down a bit, but without it, i guess you get poor flow.
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
The rubber boot is easy to replace and fairly cheap. If you screw up in your attempt to bypass it or otherwise rig it, you run the chance of running your expansion pipe hot. Doing so may melt the silicone that seals it to the upper pipe (causing exhaust leak), melt the outlet water line (causing water leak), or worst of all melt the return oil line from your rotary valve (causing Oil Leak and engine DEATH). The water reg. is a necessary evil. I had mine improperly tuned (almost closed) and damn near melted all the way through that oil line. I caught it in time to save my top end, but not a nasty synthetic oil mess in my bilge :/
Click to expand...

Reading this above causes me to ask this question - I picked up my last seadoo with a burned thru exhaust hose (951) 274000726
and after replacing it burned through this new one as well. I replaced it with a superstrong hose that has been OK ever since.

Could the above incorrectly-tuned regulator have been (or still may be but the hose is now strong enough) causing that melting issue?
 
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