Water in Hull - 94 GTX

[94silver]

Hello everyone, great forum you guys have here.

I recently bought a 94 Seadoo GTX bombardier and it seems to run great with the exception that water gets in the hull, I seem to have narrow it down to the rubber piece that covers the drive shaft

Is it normal to have water going through there? if so can I use some kind of epoxy to cover the hole? Water seems to leak in through the rubber piece and if you look closely you can see there is a small hole in it.

Oh one more thing, aren't these jet ski's supposed to have some kind of pump system that gets rid of the water inside? if so how does it work exactly ?

Thanks!

 

[scooper77515]

You will need to replace the rubber boot, and may as well replace all the seals and stuff that go with it.

Those plastic doohickies with the plastic hoses coming out, you can see one right above the shaft in this picture...they are supposed to suck the water out of the hull when the ski is moving, but seldom work the way they are supposed to. In fact, mine would allow water to rush into the hull when I came to a stop or slowed down.

I ended up removing them and plugging the hoses, and installing an electric bilge pump. I also replaced all those seals and boots and stopped most of my leaks.

 

[94silver]

You will need to replace the rubber boot, and may as well replace all the seals and stuff that go with it.

Those plastic doohickies with the plastic hoses coming out, you can see one right above the shaft in this picture...they are supposed to suck the water out of the hull when the ski is moving, but seldom work the way they are supposed to. In fact, mine would allow water to rush into the hull when I came to a stop or slowed down.

I ended up removing them and plugging the hoses, and installing an electric bilge pump. I also replaced all those seals and boots and stopped most of my leaks.

So is normal to have water inside that rubber boot ? how can I replace that? it doesn't seem like an easy job do I have to remove the drive shaft for that? Can I just use some kind of epoxy to patch the hole? I really don't care how it looks since this was a cheap jetski and for now all I want to do is just ride it.

I figured those black things were the ones that would pull water out, where did you get the electric bilge pump? I might have to go the same route... do those black things work with vacum?

 

[scooper77515]

The pump is just the smallest red/white/blue ones they sell at Academy, or any boat store. It is 360 gph, I think. I had to drill a hole above the water line to exhaust it out, in pic. I just put it under one of those metal hold down straps that hold down the old bilge doohickies like in your picture, and then put a little epoxy under it to keep it down. I wired it into the electric trim button, because my trim doesn't work anymore, and ran a hot wire to the battery with a fuse on it. So I can bilge the hull out while I am near shore, without the engine running.

I dropped the jetski off at the beach yesterday, where we will be staying next week, or I would take some more pics for you.

Really, you need to swap that boot. It flexes and bends as the boat is running, and will just break loose your sealant. It isn't too hard of a job to replace it, but you will have to pull the jet assembly and shaft out to do it. I did it during a wear ring replacement, and swapped all that junk out at one time. It cost about $200 using Babbits parts (wear ring, carbon ring, that boot, a couple other boots, and a couple of head gaskets and o-rings, so your list may not be as expensive) http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbrands/5/default.aspx, and my own labor.

That boot is UNDER the water line when the boat is sitting in the water. It acts as a spring to push the carbon ring against the mechanical seal, keeping water out of the hull while the shaft and seal spin. If you put the boat in the water, without it running, grab that boot and pull it back just a bit, and you will have water rush in!!! So, it really needs to be replaced if you want to keep the water out.

I ran mine with the boot OK, but the carbon ring flinging water into the hull for quite a while, and just used the bilge pump about once every 20 minutes. It would suck all the water out in about 15 seconds, and then I would ride another 20 minutes, bilge again, etc. So that might be a good short-term fix, but you will eventually need to replace the boot.

 

[94silver]

Cool I guess thats what I will have to do, I was looking in the manual and it doesn't seem very clear as to how hard of a job it is, can you give me any tips or pictures ? Also do you required any special tools?

See this is the hole I have in the rubber boot:

See it is very small thats why I'm not sure if is worth the trouble to replace it now.. I just want to enjoy for a bit if you know what I mean?

 

[scooper77515]

Put a hose clamp on it. that hole shouldn't even be leaking since it is where the rubber overlaps with the fiberglass.

Put a clamp on the front of the boot also, just in front of the 3 ridges...you can see where one used to be as it left indentations in the rubber.

I bet you are picking up water somewhere else...

I found that most of my water was coming in the bilge doohickies after riding it for a few minutes with the seat off. When I slowed down, water would rush in out of them. So I pulled them out, and plugged the hoses with a screw for the rest of the day. That slowed down most of my water pickup.

I still have a leak and I think it is from either where the hull sandwiches are coming together, or the rivet holes that hold down my traction on the foot rests...still working this one out. But either way, I keep the hull mostly dry by using my bilge pump.

 

[scooper77515]

It is not a difficult job, but it is time-consuming work. Should be able to do it without special tools. But it takes a couple hours to get in there, get all the parts out, replace, and reassemble. Then you will have to wait 24 hours for your sealant to dry (between jet assembly and hull), so do it on a sunday afternoon so it doesn't waste a weekend in the water.

Also, look at other seals outside by the jet nozzle. Not sure what "extras" your ski has, but you could get water from the VTS, and other places as well.

 

[94silver]

I'm pretty sure the leak is coming from this boot cause I pulled the seat off when I was riding and I saw the water rushing in that way, however I wouldn't doubt those 2 black things are also sucking in the water, I will follow your advice and plug them in.

As far as the rubber boot I'm going to attempt to fix it fix with some kind of epoxy maybe I can use like a patch from a bike tire and put some epoxy on top that way it will seal tight, I just want to try the simple stuff first before going and spending money and time on replacing the part.

 

[scooper77515]

Not the best fix, but...

...I would try to trim off the back 1/8" of that lip that should have the hose clamp on it. Then pull the boot back to fill in the 1/8" you cut off, and hose clamp OVER the hole. It will pinch the hole down to the fiberglass and stop water from coming in.

And, now that I can see the hole much better, I think you might get away with some silicone sealant. Make sure it is flexible. That part of the boot won't get much movement.

You will still need clamps on each end of that boot or any water pressure outside the boat will squeeze through.

 

[kustomkarl]

I would do a temporary fix of a rubber cement with a patch over it and clamp it in place. It might work for a short time, but it is gonna leak again eventually

 

[94silver]

I would do a temporary fix of a rubber cement with a patch over it and clamp it in place. It might work for a short time, but it is gonna leak again eventually

Rubber cement huh? you can get that stuff where? at the auto part store? walmart?

 

[kustomkarl]

I would try Auto Zone. It comes water proof too. It will only be a temporary fix...

 

[94silver]

I would try Auto Zone. It comes water proof too. It will only be a temporary fix...

Ok cool thanks...

Any ideas what this is?

There seem to be a vacum hose thats broken and is going somewhere towards the engine.

 

[kustomkarl]

Where is it coming from? Do you mean the small hose with the black plastic tie on it, pointing right?

 

[derek]

doohickies letting water in

yes, the black things work with vacuum. sort of. they are hooked to the back end of the pump in an area of low pressure. venturi effect. flow going past a hole draws stuff out the hole. the last post shows the hoses going up in the air under the seat. that loop up high is to stop water from running back in. if water comes in when engine stops, the tie-wrap is broken and the hoses stay below the water line all the way. loop them back up high and no more water in. now. 94 silver. that is your drive shaft seal. inside of the hose is full of water. that is essentially outside the hull. be SURE that water is not dripping in the front of that whole assembly. if it is only the back of the hose. any form of quiky fix should be ok for the short term. do not leave ski in water overnight. heck. drag it up on the sand every time you walk away from it for more than 10 minutes. that whole seal and bearing assy is kinda pricey, but can be had on ebay a lot cheaper than from dealers. enjoy. derek.

 

[94silver]

The pump is just the smallest red/white/blue ones they sell at Academy, or any boat store. It is 360 gph, I think. I had to drill a hole above the water line to exhaust it out, in pic. I just put it under one of those metal hold down straps that hold down the old bilge doohickies like in your picture, and then put a little epoxy under it to keep it down. I wired it into the electric trim button, because my trim doesn't work anymore, and ran a hot wire to the battery with a fuse on it. So I can bilge the hull out while I am near shore, without the engine running.

I dropped the jetski off at the beach yesterday, where we will be staying next week, or I would take some more pics for you.

Really, you need to swap that boot. It flexes and bends as the boat is running, and will just break loose your sealant. It isn't too hard of a job to replace it, but you will have to pull the jet assembly and shaft out to do it. I did it during a wear ring replacement, and swapped all that junk out at one time. It cost about $200 using Babbits parts (wear ring, carbon ring, that boot, a couple other boots, and a couple of head gaskets and o-rings, so your list may not be as expensive) http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbrands/5/default.aspx, and my own labor.

That boot is UNDER the water line when the boat is sitting in the water. It acts as a spring to push the carbon ring against the mechanical seal, keeping water out of the hull while the shaft and seal spin. If you put the boat in the water, without it running, grab that boot and pull it back just a bit, and you will have water rush in!!! So, it really needs to be replaced if you want to keep the water out.

I ran mine with the boot OK, but the carbon ring flinging water into the hull for quite a while, and just used the bilge pump about once every 20 minutes. It would suck all the water out in about 15 seconds, and then I would ride another 20 minutes, bilge again, etc. So that might be a good short-term fix, but you will eventually need to replace the boot.

Just to confirm, Is this the pump you got?

If so how did you install it? Blue side down to the hull or laying flat like in the picture? I'm about to buy one of these.

Thanks

 

[94silver]

Ok so after patching the rubber boot no more water from there, however after taking it out once again I noticed I had water in the hull.. so when I got home I fill up the hull with water and I checked for leaks under the hull and tada! I was able to find my problem

Nice long crack... seems to be leaking from there... any ideas what is the best way to patch such a crack?

 

[kustomkarl]

Follow the directions on the bilge pump. Blue side down. For the crack you'll need to patch from the inside if you can. Scuff the surface real good and make the patch area about 3" larger than the crack. Use fiberglass matt over resin and do like 2 or 3 layers with lots of resin. let it dry and scuff and paint it. On the outside do about the same thing. Get down under the gel-coat, and fill the area with fiberglass matt and fill with resin. Do it on layers till it is built up to the correct level. Than if you want to be almost perfect you can apply gel-cote over the top to match and finish it off. I would go to a boat supply store and explain about what you want to do. They will sell you all the things you need to make the patch work perfect.

Karl

 

[Shredderdog]

Water leak solved.

I had several of the same issues. The gel coat repair was a piece of cake and took about 3 hours. Got the kit at Bass Pro Shop--$30.

Mine had a tube from the engine (water cooled) that had come loose and was pumping water into the hull. Rode with the seat off and saw that.

The biggest thing that solved my water problem was the two black pump thingys that are on each side of the shaft were clogged. If you take them out and clean them and the tubes with dish detergent until the lines blow water freely it helps tremendously. I went from having quite a bit of water to being able to ride for 4 hours and not a drop in there.

Hope this helps anyone!:hurray:

 

[slinky5880]

rubber boot

that is not a sea-doo boot on your shaft, and yes it can leak water, if you don't want to replace it it can be sealed and SHOULD BE CLAMPED at both ends.

 

[scot750]

first off the rubber hose is for the wrong year, you need the straight reinforced rubber hose for the older seadoos and hose clamps on both ends.
if the crack is bad enough to leak then it needs to be repaired with fiberglass for it to be strong enough to hold up to the stress on the bottom, you can put up a fiberglass repair kit and lowes, walmart, home depot and any auto parts store.

if water runs in the " bailers" there is something wrong, the hoses come in,go up to the elbow and back down to the black box so the elbow is higher than the outside water so it should not leak in.

the small broken hose it the one pic is for the battery vent.

you need to put zip ties on the both ends of the other rubber boot on the pto so it will hold the grease.

hope it helps

 

[MontanaXP]

Another thing is that there is a bearing on the engine side of that hose, if you put it together properly (clamped at both ends) and the hose spins than you have one of two problems...Your bearing has seized or your thru-hull has come unglued. If the bearing is good and the thru-hull is good then you'll clamp her up and viola! No water and no spinning. I just had to replace that entire assembly, thru-hull, hose, needle bearing and shaft because mine seized. Good luck! Also all That work can be done by pulling the nozzle/pump off the back of your ski (instead of pulling the motor also as I did hehe) Good luck!