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Water down the carburetor..

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caw0215

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Hi - With the help of this forum...I rebuilt my stock carbs on my 1995 Seadoo XP using genuine mikuni parts, replaced oil/gas lines and filters, sending unit, oil and gas. It was looking promising for a newbie like me. Cranked up fine, idle seemed spot on. First time ski owner and shade tree mechanic but I was a bit early patting myself on the back. I made a bonehead maneuver and hoping I can get out of this as a lesson learned without much damage.

I had been 'dry' cranking OK so I finally hooked up the flush kit and clamped the line. Cranked up the jetski and let it idle for about a minute. Sounded sweet. I then walked over to the hose bib and turned on the water. The water pressure popped the hose off the flush valve and was shooting water up in the air. Next bonehead move disclosed here was that I did not have the stock air box on , just the flame arrestor so I could spray the premix in for cold starts. Murphy's law kicks in and the water is coming down into the flame arrestor / down the carbs. ( I now have a shutoff valve on the hose ... ) Must've been only a few seconds but seemed like forever before I shut off the hose. But the the seadoo bogged down.

I checked forums online and followed the steps ..pulled the plugs ( (5422) NGK BR8ES) , sprayed seadoo xp-s lubricant down each cylinder, even 2-stroke, and turned it over and over with one finger on the hole. Not a lot of spray came out but a mist and not sure that wasn't the lubricant.

4 sets of plugs later, 2 cans of seadoo xp-s lube, and I can crank it cold w/premix. It will fire but sounds rough. I can run it for a few minutes on the flush kit, turn it off, repeat the above procedure, change plugs..but it still sounds like an engine that has water in the gas. I ran it on the water WOT and it was erratic with surges like it wanted to run, then it would falter, then run wide open. I brought it in immediately and checked the plugs. Plugs were so hot I couldn't touch them (?) One plug seemed really light on the tip like it was lean (PTO). I'll repeat the test again as HS and LS are set to stock.

I will keep repeating this procedure, running it for 10 mins WOT and keep replacing plugs. But not having any experience with breaking down these motors can the water go thru the intake, thru the rotary valve openings, and mix with either gas or oil? do I also need to purge the system of the oil and filters? and maybe the gas as well?

Carey
 
Nothing else to do but get it started and run it until the motor is "dried out". All you did was get water in the case and it takes a little while for it to work itself clean. Don't run it wide open, just get it up on step and cruise for a half hour. Let us know if it is still acting up. All that extra lube is causing trouble as well so stop spraying it in.
 
OK Thanks...will do.
Is it normal for the plugs to get that hot? wasn't even on the water that long maybe 20 mins tops. So hot I couldn't remove them with my hands.
Also, when I did remove the plugs it looked like a vapor coming out of the cylinders. Is that from the moisture or is that from a normal gas burn?
 
By now all the water that got in is long gone and you are fine. It does sound like you have a carb issue though as it should not be running really rough and the plugs do get hot.
 
One last question: Can the water that went into the carbs and into the crankcase end up in the the RV cavity and then into the oil return line? wondering if I need to replace the oil.
 
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