custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
where should the water box valve red cap be adjusted to? Mine seems to be half way up from flush like there is about a 1/4" sticking out from the top of the black cap.
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water box valve red cap adjustment
- Thread starter custompartsguy
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Joe, here is some information on the water flow regulator;
The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting. The bottom tapered screw should be screwed in just snug.
This Regulator valve plays an important part in cooling the engine. Each fitting is a special size and controls the flow of water to the different part of the engine depending on the rpm. Never mix up the fittings or you'll have problems with over heating and maybe seizure.
Water leaking through that hole is a sign that you have blockage in the orifice connector below the regulator. Disconnect the hoses, remember which one goes where, and then un-screw it off the tank. Then, with a wrench, remove the brass fitting. This is the part that will probably be stopped up.
DO NOT CHANGE the setting of this regulator. This valve can cause major engine damage if not operating properly.
Water Flow Regulator Valve
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting. The bottom tapered screw should be screwed in just snug.
This Regulator valve plays an important part in cooling the engine. Each fitting is a special size and controls the flow of water to the different part of the engine depending on the rpm. Never mix up the fittings or you'll have problems with over heating and maybe seizure.
Water regulator plugged
Water leaking through that hole is a sign that you have blockage in the orifice connector below the regulator. Disconnect the hoses, remember which one goes where, and then un-screw it off the tank. Then, with a wrench, remove the brass fitting. This is the part that will probably be stopped up.
DO NOT CHANGE the setting of this regulator. This valve can cause major engine damage if not operating properly.
Karl
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
Mine might be fine I was just wondering, I do not get the part where it says 2 clicks though.
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
I have heard that on the cylinder raves, but this is the water box one chester
Can someone tell him where it is supposed to be stock?
I have never messed with mine, but it appears to be just a couple clicks turned out from flush.
Clicks are each of the lines etched in the top. I think there is 6 or 8 of them.
I have never messed with mine, but it appears to be just a couple clicks turned out from flush.
Clicks are each of the lines etched in the top. I think there is 6 or 8 of them.
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timmyboy76
New Member
just got done read'n about these...and it said, that no 2-motors act the same, so its a "trial an error" thing, but did read, that the 2-raves (cylinders)need to be opposite of that of the waterbox...You cant hurt it,by experimenting, but will know if it aint perfroming right.
No, on the RAVE valves you can experiment, but on the water flow regulator valve it will lead to a over heat condition if you play with the settings...or a seizure.
Karl
Karl
timmyboy76
New Member
in so many words...thats why it has an "adjustment". Dont think they'd have one, if it would cause an engine to "seize"...:cheers:
It is an adjustment as it is assembled from different parts. It regulates the water flow at different rpm's. If you play with it, it will over heat and you know where that leads. You can adjust it all you want ...it's not mine!
Karl
Karl
The adjustment on the RAVE valves will not change the top RPM or speed. They will only change when the valve opens in the mid range.
By adjusting the water regulator, you will notice a definite change in top RPM and bottom end acceleration.
Chester
I disagree! The water regulator is made to adjust, hence the adjuster. The seizure that you experienced is due to another problem. I adjust them all of the time for my customers needs with no ill affects. In fact, if you were to completely plug off the water line from the regulator to the pipe, it would never cause a seizure. It will only overheat the pipe chamber and melt the rubber exhaust hose.
I will test one next week and post the RPM difference on a 97 GTX.
Chester
How does it affect RPM?
I have read the manual (so don't cut and paste that for me) but do not quite understand the theory of this adjustment.
My top rpm now is around 6800 in the water. Is it safe to adjust this and get the rpms up a little for a little more top-end speed?
I have read the manual (so don't cut and paste that for me) but do not quite understand the theory of this adjustment.
My top rpm now is around 6800 in the water. Is it safe to adjust this and get the rpms up a little for a little more top-end speed?
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
I am not sure, because I am no expert, but I think it has to do with back pressure. Chester may have a bit more insight
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
I am going to have alot of finding out I guess. My water box valve seems to be at least 2 clicks maybe just past that.
take a look at this kit and tell me your input on it please.....
http://www.jetworks.net/sde951faq.htm
I am a person that believes that each person knows something someone else does not, I do not know if any of us on here are professional performance ski builders however some may be but one thing is for sure we all have something to offer, and we all will dissagree with another on here no matter how much we know them just because we all have our own input on a certain situation. Guys lets all remember we are all here to help each other and it makes it hard for some guys that will have no clue in their ski to seek the truth if in their help post we dissagree with each other....lets help each other out.
I thank all of you for your input as I do not just base off of ones single knowledge, I alwas confirm before I do. This kit I have checked into for my exhaust seems to be pretty nice for what its worth. Doesnt the water enter the engine first and not the exahust first and from the exhaust to the motor? We can only control the amount of water in the exhaust correct? so then an incorrect setting on the water box valve could pose a exhaust overheat if not cared for/ paid attention to?:hurray:
take a look at this kit and tell me your input on it please.....
http://www.jetworks.net/sde951faq.htm
I am a person that believes that each person knows something someone else does not, I do not know if any of us on here are professional performance ski builders however some may be but one thing is for sure we all have something to offer, and we all will dissagree with another on here no matter how much we know them just because we all have our own input on a certain situation. Guys lets all remember we are all here to help each other and it makes it hard for some guys that will have no clue in their ski to seek the truth if in their help post we dissagree with each other....lets help each other out.
I thank all of you for your input as I do not just base off of ones single knowledge, I alwas confirm before I do. This kit I have checked into for my exhaust seems to be pretty nice for what its worth. Doesnt the water enter the engine first and not the exahust first and from the exhaust to the motor? We can only control the amount of water in the exhaust correct? so then an incorrect setting on the water box valve could pose a exhaust overheat if not cared for/ paid attention to?:hurray:
Everything I add to the seadoo forum is direct from the service manuals. I don't experiment at the expense of others. If I give my opinion I state it as so. Seadoo states that the water Regulator should not be adjusted, as engine damage will occur. I didn't make it up, I "quoted" it from the service manual.
Karl
Karl
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
It seems to make sense Karl as I think it controls the exhaust water correct?
Man, that sounds like a lot of work. Having to record jet sizes and swap them when the water temperature changes.
I think I will stick with my stock setup. It works, so I wont mess with it.
Oh, and I hope it is legal to post that link and the mods dont remove it until others have a chance to read and give feedback.
I think I will stick with my stock setup. It works, so I wont mess with it.
Oh, and I hope it is legal to post that link and the mods dont remove it until others have a chance to read and give feedback.
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
Don't know why it wouldn't be legal......as far as doing that to the water valve it is only for a modded ski, my head is in need of replacement or needs to be shaved due to old owner neglect that salt damaged the head and soon it would no longer seal water out, shaving it should be fine, and in the seadoo racing book it said you can do the mods to the head in the picture and mill the top of the head and shave the cylinder 1.8mm , I think it said it would bring it to 14:1 compression up from 12:1, but I really need to shave the head to fix my problem or buy a used head and do it their way to specs, of course I would have to adjust the carbs,water valve, rave valves, and timing but once done should be great mods. Only down side is I will have to run high octane racing fuel, but they do not say how high....or can I use pump 93 and add booster to it of course pre-mix everything. I would pass on doing mods for now however I have to take the head to the machine shop along with my cylinder (only to be clean) so I figured I would have some light work done if it does not cost to much.
I also found out that my water valve is correctly adjusted right now, I just wanted to be sure as the old owner messed this ski up enough so I need to check everything
Hmmm...14.1 compression on a 4-stroke typically needs at least 93 octane depending on cam and heads. Not sure how the 2-stroke plays into the equation....That could be fun on one of our engines:reddevil:
As for the legality, it looks like a published manual, and I was afraid the mods would not let it fly since the publisher might get hissy about it being publicly displayed. Kinda like the online manuals they have here that you cannot get access to unless you pay the big bucks and become a Premium Member. Of course, with a little research, you can find them elsewhere for free, but again, not sure how legal it all is. Seems like if you aren't paying the publisher, then somehow it must be bordering on the side of illegality...
I guess it almost feels like copying a DVD of a movie. Something like that...
As for the legality, it looks like a published manual, and I was afraid the mods would not let it fly since the publisher might get hissy about it being publicly displayed. Kinda like the online manuals they have here that you cannot get access to unless you pay the big bucks and become a Premium Member. Of course, with a little research, you can find them elsewhere for free, but again, not sure how legal it all is. Seems like if you aren't paying the publisher, then somehow it must be bordering on the side of illegality...
I guess it almost feels like copying a DVD of a movie. Something like that...
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
well I did not have to pay for any of the 8 manuals I downloaded, they where all free I will not disclose them in this site however I downloaded a full shop service manual,shop flat rate pay times,tools, safty,owners,racing,specs, and another flat rate time manual. I could not believe they where all free and the info in them is amazing, I really can now answer most of my own questions, flow charts everything step by step processes its too cool. I spoke to someone today and they told me by doing the mods to my motor according to the seadoo race manual and proper tuning I could about if not a little more pull off the 70mph I want out of my ski along with better top and bottom end. I love the big gtx, they are just as fast if not faster ( stock skis) then a 2 seater in rough water, even on smooth water they keep up good, yet they hug the water better then a 2 seater. I put the manuals on a cd and I am going to take them down and have them printed, the shop manual is almost 500 pages, and I am going to have the shop manual in my hands to help with my ski from now on, its hard to rely on others for help all the time.
If you read pages 3-49 and 3-50 of the racing manual in custompartsguy's link it will explain it to you. Yes you can get a little more top speed.
Chester
Legality?....
It's not a "legality" issue, it is a business issue. If we were to take our manuals from BRP and photo copy them and put them up for sale, then we would be "pirating" the manuals and that is illegal. We do not sell these manuals. The manuals are part of the service you receive in being a premium member. Not eveyone on the site needs this service. Many members that own a ski/boat do not know how to work on it. We have many, many premium members here who came to the forum, already owning the manual. But, they needed help in lamens terms to break that manaul down to them, try to be their inner ear to help them focus on what to do and how to approach it. They can do the same in this section, they just choose to support the forums efforts.
I have a lot of respect for many mechanics I have worked with in the forum. Chester being one of them. I'm going to have to vouch for KustomKarl on this issue though. The BRP manual so states that tampering with the adjustment on the water flow regulator "may" lead to engine damage.
But, to play the devils advocate, I also agree with Chester. Because, I have also read the manual that we are talking about. The problem is, this is a "race" manual. This manual goes above and beyond what the forum moderators are here for. Our basic troubleshooting is for "stock" systems. When you get into the mods or "race handbook" type situations, then that can put someone on the spot. If after I read that I can alter that water flow regulator in 1/4 turn from the manafacturers specific set point, that it will increase my power by 5% and you do it, then your motor blows or melts your gaskets, who is going to have a finger pointed at them? ........the one that said, "hey, KustomKarl said I could adjust it like that".......so, for our basic troubleshooting, we follow the guidelines of our BRP shop manuals in the library of the forum.
I think you may see all of us, from time to time, talk about modding the pump or some other generic comment but I don't think I've ever pointed to a direct modification that would change your engine from stock requirements, without accepting the fact that if I do, my reputation is on the line. Many times, like KustomKarl said, I will say it's in my opinion. Other times, it's straight from the manual. If not, then I know what I'm saying to be true and will place my reputation on the line for it. I have also been bitten doing it and had to take back my words. Being human is to error. I'm o.k. with making a mistake.
The last thing, "hyper links". We don't talk about this much because normally, there is no big issue over it. When we decided to join this forum, we said we'd agree to the terms of the forums rules (yeah, I know, I don't read all that stuff either before clicking on the accept button). That said, the hyper links we consider illegal, are to sites that promote things like hate, sexual content.....I think you get the picture. But, because of our forum status, we do not allow attachments of the shop manaul with the exception to exploded parts pages or any hyper link to a forum that is Seadoo related. That would be the same as if you were selling Coca Cola at the gate to the Pepsi plant. I hope that makes sense.
This is a free country. You can go and do what ever you so please. Honestly, I do read from many different places on the internet, including forums. But, I do respect the fact that this is www.seadooforum.com.........
Hmmm...14.1 compression on a 4-stroke typically needs at least 93 octane depending on cam and heads. Not sure how the 2-stroke plays into the equation....That could be fun on one of our engines:reddevil:
As for the legality, it looks like a published manual, and I was afraid the mods would not let it fly since the publisher might get hissy about it being publicly displayed. Kinda like the online manuals they have here that you cannot get access to unless you pay the big bucks and become a Premium Member. Of course, with a little research, you can find them elsewhere for free, but again, not sure how legal it all is. Seems like if you aren't paying the publisher, then somehow it must be bordering on the side of illegality...
I guess it almost feels like copying a DVD of a movie. Something like that...
It's not a "legality" issue, it is a business issue. If we were to take our manuals from BRP and photo copy them and put them up for sale, then we would be "pirating" the manuals and that is illegal. We do not sell these manuals. The manuals are part of the service you receive in being a premium member. Not eveyone on the site needs this service. Many members that own a ski/boat do not know how to work on it. We have many, many premium members here who came to the forum, already owning the manual. But, they needed help in lamens terms to break that manaul down to them, try to be their inner ear to help them focus on what to do and how to approach it. They can do the same in this section, they just choose to support the forums efforts.
I have a lot of respect for many mechanics I have worked with in the forum. Chester being one of them. I'm going to have to vouch for KustomKarl on this issue though. The BRP manual so states that tampering with the adjustment on the water flow regulator "may" lead to engine damage.
But, to play the devils advocate, I also agree with Chester. Because, I have also read the manual that we are talking about. The problem is, this is a "race" manual. This manual goes above and beyond what the forum moderators are here for. Our basic troubleshooting is for "stock" systems. When you get into the mods or "race handbook" type situations, then that can put someone on the spot. If after I read that I can alter that water flow regulator in 1/4 turn from the manafacturers specific set point, that it will increase my power by 5% and you do it, then your motor blows or melts your gaskets, who is going to have a finger pointed at them? ........the one that said, "hey, KustomKarl said I could adjust it like that".......so, for our basic troubleshooting, we follow the guidelines of our BRP shop manuals in the library of the forum.
I think you may see all of us, from time to time, talk about modding the pump or some other generic comment but I don't think I've ever pointed to a direct modification that would change your engine from stock requirements, without accepting the fact that if I do, my reputation is on the line. Many times, like KustomKarl said, I will say it's in my opinion. Other times, it's straight from the manual. If not, then I know what I'm saying to be true and will place my reputation on the line for it. I have also been bitten doing it and had to take back my words. Being human is to error. I'm o.k. with making a mistake.
The last thing, "hyper links". We don't talk about this much because normally, there is no big issue over it. When we decided to join this forum, we said we'd agree to the terms of the forums rules (yeah, I know, I don't read all that stuff either before clicking on the accept button). That said, the hyper links we consider illegal, are to sites that promote things like hate, sexual content.....I think you get the picture. But, because of our forum status, we do not allow attachments of the shop manaul with the exception to exploded parts pages or any hyper link to a forum that is Seadoo related. That would be the same as if you were selling Coca Cola at the gate to the Pepsi plant. I hope that makes sense.
This is a free country. You can go and do what ever you so please. Honestly, I do read from many different places on the internet, including forums. But, I do respect the fact that this is www.seadooforum.com.........
Last edited by a moderator:
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
Hmmm...14.1 compression on a 4-stroke typically needs at least 93 octane depending on cam and heads. Not sure how the 2-stroke plays into the equation....That could be fun on one of our engines:reddevil:
As for the legality, it looks like a published manual, and I was afraid the mods would not let it fly since the publisher might get hissy about it being publicly displayed. Kinda like the online manuals they have here that you cannot get access to unless you pay the big bucks and become a Premium Member. Of course, with a little research, you can find them elsewhere for free, but again, not sure how legal it all is. Seems like if you aren't paying the publisher, then somehow it must be bordering on the side of illegality...
I guess it almost feels like copying a DVD of a movie. Something like that...
No, no no....I removed the link for a couple of reasons as snipe sort of touched on already, But I removed them myself because I didn't feel it was right to post it where you could review all, and snipe pretty much covered everything. You have to think of it this way, many people charge for things that others have for cheap or free, they are not just charging for manuals there is aolt more to go with it. To try and put it in perspective....I sort of see it like if one burger joint gave out free burger's then every other burger joint would have to do the same right? no.....Manuals are not cut and dry if you read through one you will still have questions...and then who do you ask if no one is there? I can understand everyones point of veiw we all have our own opinions and thats what makes us normal.....we are all here to help each other but in seeing a manual people tend to believe it more in writing.....and if something where to go wrong then who is to blame?
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