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Voltage Regulator Problem?

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despower

despower

Active Member
Hey guys,

Thanks for all the help in the past.

Am having a problem with Sportster. On startup, I get a 2 second beep every 58 seconds indicating a code 5. I checked the usual suspects for code 5, one of which is a battery problem. I removed battery and made sure it was fully charged with an external charger. Reinstalling the recharged battery eliminated the Code 5 temporarily. After 5 minutes or so at 3500 RPM, I tried to rev up past 5000 rpm to make sure it was out of limp mode. When it got to 5000 rpm, the code 5 beeping started again. I dropped the rpms back to 3500 and checked the battery voltage - it was at 12.3V. With the Sporter stopped and battery switched off, the voltage reads 12.65V. This sounds wrong - I thought the regulator should bring the voltage up to ~14.4 Volts when running in order to enable the battery to charge properly.

So, does this indicate a faulty regulator or faulty battery? Note that I have not thoroughly checked the other code 5 problems yet - it seems to me that the battery/regulator might be the culprit.
 
Update - I managed to get the RPMs up to about 5500 (after sitting idle for a few minutes). While the code 5 is cleared but I suspect it will come back. I was able to measure 13.2V on the battery while running at 5500RPM. This seems a little low, but I am unsure. What do you think?
 
does seem low, but it is charging. Check the conditions of the grounds. Whats the "other" possibility?
 
The other possibilities are faulty water temp sensor, throttle position sensor, exhaust gas temp sensor, or manifold actual pressure sensor. While I have not ruled any of these out, I am focusing on regulator/battery because the fault seems to clear when the battery is fully charged. You are right though - at 13.2V, the regulator is charging the battery - I had it running this morning for about 20 minutes without getting the code 5 fault. I just ran out an got a spare (new) battery that I will swap out. Always good to have a spare battery I suppose. I'll update later today, but if anyone has any bright ideas, let me know.

FYI - checked all fuses and none are blown.
 
A little baffled???

I broke down yesterday and got a new battery - ran her for about 30 minutes. No code 5 - ran fine.

Last night I launched the boat and tied her up overnight. Before I did that, I gave her a quick run to make sure there wasn't a code 5 beeping. Ran smooth as silk. I made sure the power switch was turned off before I left.

When I went back today, I immediately got the code 5 beeping again. Remember this is a new battery but I didn't have the means to check the voltage right away. I kept her running (it was in limp mode so I couldn't get up over 5000 rpm) for about 20 minutes, then the code 5 went away. Ran smooth after that. So, it sounds like a charging problem, but why would I get a code 5? With charging, code 5 only happens when the voltage is very low - right??? I can't see the battery being drained that quickly on just the bilge pump.

Anyway, I am a bit stumped. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
 
Still baffled...

A quick update - I checked the grounds. Physically they looked fine (there are two ground wires running to two different points on the engine) and I did a continuity check on each of them (after diconnecting them from the battery terminal). They both tested fine, but since this is an intermittent problem, I wonder if a continuity check would show anything. I did shake the wires around a bit and no problems showed up.

Question for the mechanics out there who have experience with programming MPEMs - is it possible to have an incorrect 'low voltage error' programmed into the MPEM? It seems that the boat runs fine when the battery is fully charged, but gives me a beep if the battery is only a little less than 100% (say, at 12.3V). I ran the boat for about 3 hours today after I charged the battery up - no beeps.

If I am barking up the wrong tree, let me know. Perhaps I just need to bring it in to the shop and have them hook it up to their BUDS to get a better diagnosis.
 
This is exactly the same problem I have with my seadoo xpdi right now.
Hope someone can help us with this problem?
 
regulator problem

It seems to me like it maybe the magneto not giving the correct output voltage necessary to charge the battery and therefore maintain the electrical system thru its operating range.
 
The problem SEEMS to have gone away on my boat. I did a few things:

1) Replaced battery (the old one still seems OK)
2) Replaced ground wire to engine (the old ground wire seems fine, but I replaced it with a larger gauge wire to be sure it was getting good ground)
3) The night before I take her out, I charge the battery with an external charger

The last step seems to be a tad unnecessary because the charger only charges the battery for a few minutes before topping out.

I have checked the voltage a few times since, and the regulator appears to be giving 13.3v to the battery at ~3000rpm, which I am figuring should be OK.
 
Egg - can you describe fully what is happening to yours? I am very curious to see what the similarities are.
 
despower said:
Egg - can you describe fully what is happening to yours? I am very curious to see what the similarities are.
Click to expand...

I whent out one day and the motor wouldent crank over, i got some jump cabels and got it running again.
I was running for 4 min when it got in to limp mode with a long beep every min and the maintains light flashing i could not get it over 5500 rpm. I got it to the shore and it whouldent crank over, i check the battery cabels and the voltage (12,2 V ).

I charged up the battery to 12,95v and went out again, it startet fine and run smoothly for 15 min when it suddenly went into limpmode again

I got it up on the trailer and checked the voltage 12,5V. i tryed starting it but it wouldent crank over.
Allso when i connected the landyard key to the pwc and it gave me 7 rappid beeps, and sometime 3 and 6 and mostly 2 normal ones when i connected it over and over again.

i charged up the battery and got it starting again and checked the charging while running 13,6V so it's charging.

Could it be a bad battery ?
 
At 12.5V, the battery is almost fully charged (~90%). I had no problem cranking my boat when the voltage was 12.2V (~60% charged). The fact that your ski isn't cranking at times tells me it is something different than mine. It also sounds like the regulator is fine if the voltage while running is 13.6V.

You might want to post this on the PWC forum to see if anyone has any insight on it.
 
Well i found out the problem, it was a bad rectifire which created problems for me. When i rev up to 6000rpm the rectifire can't charge the battery and pwc drains to mutch voltage.
 
despower,

This smells very similar to what is happening with my '04 Sportster DI machine right now. Did you ever get a final resolution (I see this was from a few months ago).

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Hey Lightningtruck,

Can`t say for sure what fixed it. I replaced the battery and replaced one of the two ground wires (the smaller of the two). I haven`t had the problem ever since (the boat has been winterized since October). It definitely wasn`t the regulator in my case, which was Egg`s problem. Good luck.
 
Just got mine out today after the winter hibernation. Had 90 degree temps and water temp in the river was up to 74 degrees - whooohooo.

Over the winter I put in new TPS sensors. Problem seems to be solved. The thing had symptoms exactly like yours and was throwing that code 5 constantly when I put her away last October, but now with the new TPS sensors, it ran like a scaled dog today. I noted the battery weirdness you saw, so I didn't even put the charger on it before I hit the water. I need to put the volt meter to it, though and see what it is. Note that back in early September of last year I had put a new battery in it. If it would have acted up today, I would have put the charger to the battery, changed the grounds, and tried again. But it doesn't look like I need to do that.

Anyway, I think that one of the TPS sensors was the deal.

Now to get that depth finder installed...

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Lightningtruck said:
Just got mine out today after the winter hibernation. Had 90 degree temps and water temp in the river was up to 74 degrees - whooohooo.

Over the winter I put in new TPS sensors. Problem seems to be solved. The thing had symptoms exactly like yours and was throwing that code 5 constantly when I put her away last October, but now with the new TPS sensors, it ran like a scaled dog today. I noted the battery weirdness you saw, so I didn't even put the charger on it before I hit the water. I need to put the volt meter to it, though and see what it is. Note that back in early September of last year I had put a new battery in it. If it would have acted up today, I would have put the charger to the battery, changed the grounds, and tried again. But it doesn't look like I need to do that.

Anyway, I think that one of the TPS sensors was the deal.

Now to get that depth finder installed...

Thanks,
Kevin
Click to expand...

Well it's back. Same symptoms/deal as Despower, and same as what it was doing last year. Thought I had 'er licked, but today I got the code 5 again and ran home in limp-home mode.

Funny thing - Ran yesterday and the battery was a bit low. I didn't get to put a meter on it, but I could tell it was cranking slower. Battery was brand new last fall and kept inside on a tender this winter. Anyway, after it cranked up yesterday, I rolled into the throttle, got it on plane, and was rewarded with the code 5 and limp home mode. Shut down, then next time ramped into the throttle very slowly, got on plane, and kept slowly ramping up to WOT, and that time she pulled strong and never looked back. Ran all day long without a hiccup. Figured that I had a battery voltage problem and running it yesterday charged it up enough to not be a problem the rest of the day.

So today I figured I'd just see about that battery. Hooked up the battery to the charger (of course disconnecting the battery first!), and before I went out late this afternoon, I put the meter on it and confirmed 13.4V. Cool. So drop it in the water and try to repeat what I did the first pass yesterday (that resulted in the code 5), and this time it ran strong and without a hitch. Ahhhhhh, it was battery voltage after all. Wrong! Got about 3 miles downriver and while crusing at about 5500rpm and 2/3 throttle, I decide to bury the throttle. Go to WOT, and bam, code 5 and limp-home mode. Start and stop a few times, and now it's very consistently code 5-ing me. Made it home and now disgusted with it, almost to the point of buying a 4-TEC <<<gasp>>>.

Anyway, a CanDooPro is in my future now. Like ordering one tomorrow.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
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You seem to have really checked out the electrical system side.

I would look at cleaning the throttle body. Get some TB cleaner, not carburetor cleaner, and really clean it up. You may have a sticking butterfly which is giving a throttle position error. This is a common problem on some cars.

Just be careful when cleaning it. Spray the cleaner in and wipe the inside of the TB gently with a microfiber cloth. Also check the linkage and make sure it moves easily.
 
Actually, on mine, I replaced the entire throttle body assembly with both TPS sensors, all as one unit. It was all brand new and I confirmed that it was all moving smoothly, as well as the linkage. The old parts were equally as clean and smooth. I know exactly what you mean about the linkage and throttle body smoothness, as I have been bitten by the carboned-up throttle body on a F150 and also a Cadillac, both with electronic throttle control.

I also hear that the rectifier can also make the MPEM act goofy. That may be next on the hit list. But thinking I will first order a CanDooPro so I can read the P-codes and log some data and see what is going on.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
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CaptSteve said:
If you are going to replace the rectifier, check this out. He makes external rectifiers that are much stronger than oem. http://www.seadoosource.com/hdrectifier.html
Click to expand...

Got the CanDooPro today, ran out to the boat and let 'er rip.

This thing is super easy to use, and BAM, there are all my codes. Cleared and I get the P0562/P0563 coming back for battery low, when I already checked the battery right now to be 12.7V. I smell a rectifier purchase in my future...

Will report back with the new recitifier. I will say I like this CanDooPro so far.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Got the rectifier in. Got the improved one from seadoosource mentioned above.

Note that before the new rectifier, it would set the two battery low codes while sitting on the trailer. This with reasonable battery voltage (12.7V) and the battery was new last fall (and maintained over the winter). So I clear the codes and put the rectifier in. Did not charge the battery or anything, as I wanted to see apples-to-apples what the rectifier would do itself. So I fire it up and it won't set codes. Awesome. I got it, so I thought.

Head to the river tonight, drop it in, and take off hard. Thing pulls like never before, and actually seems smoother from the engine bay. Ran at WOT for a couple miles, then down to about a nice 38mph cruise speed for a few more, and after about 5 miles, BAM, right out of the blue she's bogging and throwing code 5 again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rode all the way home in limp mode. So it was NOT the rectifier.

Get home and hook up the CanDoo to it and low battery codes set again, nothing else. Clear them and it sets them on the trailer, just like before. This time, I pull up the live monitor on the CanDoo and watch battery voltage. Pull it just off idle and she's at 13V, but for no reason at all, it drops to 9V. Then back to 13V. BINGO - voltage drop out. Throught that's what the rectifier would take care of, but I guess it's time to check the grounds again and the stator. What else is there?????????

Note: At this point the boat is for sale. I went to the 4-stroke dark side and bought an '05 SCIC Challenger 180 yesterday. I'm done with 2-strokes. I love it when it's running, but am done with screwing with it. I know nothing's perfect, and everything can and will break, but I can't take this anymore.

The CanDooPro rocks, though.
 
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Update on my deal. Through use of the CanDooPro unit, I see that it keeps tripping the battery voltage code. In real time, watch battery voltage and it is nice right at 13V running, but occasionally drops out to 9V. Hit the shop manual and did everything said for this condition (cleaned all terminals/grounds/greased 'em again, static test of stator, new rectifier, new battery, tested circuits, everything!) and the last culprit is the stator.

And then I notice that the 6-pin plug to that goes in to the stator pushes in and out in the housing. Not the Deutsch connector, but the housing it is molded into. The seal to that is sticking out, so water can get in to the stator. Uh-oh. Guess we have our answer now, huh.

Just picked up a new stator assembly/cover/plug housing off of eBay, will install and see what it does. I am 100% confident that this is the deal though. This CanDoo unit is the ticket for diagnosing these DI problems. I would have been incredibly lost without it. If I would have started with it, I would have saved a ton of time and money.

Kevin
 
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