Utopia Steering Cable Replacement

[Jayzuks]

2003 205 Utopia, optimax 250 M2, replacing steering cable.

The cable broke in half so I was able to slide it out of the rubber sleeve.
- How do I get the sleeve out of the back of this part?
- There is a nut behind the flange do I need to loosen it up?
- Does the threaded tube need to be removed?

Many Thanks,

Jayzuks

 

[Tim75]

You will need a large screwdriver and a small hammer to relieve the locking tab. Then you will need a 3/8 drive crowfoot wrench (7/8, I think), and extension and a 3/8 ratchet. And some penetrating oil. Spray the nuts. You will need to remove the rubber bellows seal INSIDE hull. 2 people will make it much easier. Disconnect cable at helm. Remove the nuts, work cable forward. Remove second nut. Remove cable.

This cable is a generic heavy duty control cable. NOT a made-by-Seadoo part. There should be a brand and p/n on the cable. Avail. most marine outlets and ebay. About $170. Also need the steering rubber bellows. How is the shifter bellows? And some good sealant.

Notice I said small hammer. If you hit that casting too hard, it can break.

 

[Jayzuks]

Got it many thanks Tim75, I appreciate it!!!

 

[Tim75]

Got it many thanks Tim75, I appreciate it!!!

.The hardest part of replacement is routing the new cable thru hull fitting and out to casting.

 

[Jayzuks]

Hi All,
Two more quick ones.
1) Does the part attached to the black flange casting need to be removed, if so does it screw or slide out?


2) Does this white part from in side the hull need to be completely screwed out?


Many Thanks,
JZ

 

[Tim75]

Hi All,
Two more quick ones.
1) Does the part attached to the black flange casting need to be removed, if so does it screw or slide out?
View attachment 54468

2) Does this white part from in side the hull need to be completely screwed out?


Many Thanks,
JZ

The part outside the boat should slide forward. Casting is not threaded inside. It looks like you have a corrosion issue. Be careful of too much brute force. You ma break the casting.

The plastic fitting in the bilge does not need to be loosened or removed

 

[Jayzuks]

Thanks Tim75, I appreciate it.

I put some PB blaster on it last night and today but can not get it to move. Here is a vid of what I am doing, I am doing it right? Maybe a little more force?

Many Thanks,

Jason

 

[Tim75]

Thanks Tim75, I appreciate it.

I put some PB blaster on it last night and today but can not get it to move. Here is a vid of what I am doing, I am doing it right? Maybe a little more force?

Many Thanks,

Jason

Wow! Torque wrench punch. Never seen one before. Maybe a piece of 3/8 or 1/2 inch pipe?

Anyhow, you are eyewitness to marine corrosion between aluminum casting and stainless steel fitting. The stainless is basically inert. The aluminum gets all the electrolytic action. What is the condition of the zinc anodes on the jet unit?

That fitting on the old cable needs to move forward to dislodge it. Then pulled forward and out of the boat. Is the other end of the cable disconnected?

Normally, that cable does not need to be rotated. But- if you could rotated it a little, it might help to break the corrosion. Too much force=breakage.

 

[Jayzuks]

Ha I know its an old Torque wrench I had laying around. Needless to say I was able to turn / wiggle it alittle and broke it free. Then it push right through the aluminum casting.....

The anodes look good, but I am going to replace them.

Cannot thank you enough for all your help and making sure I did not break the casting and create another issue for me.

Thank you Thank You Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!

JZ

PS: What type of sealant would you recommend?

 

[Tim75]

There are sealants, and there are sealants that are industrial adhesives.

I just use a name brand silicone sealant. It is slippery until cured. Not super strong. Easy to disassemble, unless it really gooped up. A little bit, and mechanical clamping, and you usually have a good seal.

Don't forget new steering and shift bellows.