Upgrading your 215 SeaDoo to 260hp and beyond

[JoeZ]

Showing the parts used to increase the power of your 215 to match (and beat) the 260 Sea Doos. Starting with the X-Charger, injectors (if needed), and external intercooler (Fizzle F1000). We recommend adding a fuel pressure regulator at this point. From there, tuning the setup with the maptunerx will put you well over 260hp.


We also offer an ET137 wheel, which can be installed on the XCharger for HUGE boost gains.

All parts are available through PWCMuscle.com

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XCharger + Injectors
Fizzle F1000 Intercooler
MapTuner
ET137 Wheel




Continue the discussion on PWCExtreme.com:
https://www.pwcextreme.com/t/upgrading-seadoo-215hp-to-260hp-and-more/77

 

[Hawk388]

Since I plan on doing this piece by piece, as in, impeller/ring, Fizzle, then the tuner, then the XCharger, is there a size impeller I should get now to make the upgraded power level more productive later on when I get everything else together?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Since I plan on doing this piece by piece, as in, impeller/ring, Fizzle, then the tuner, then the XCharger, is there a size impeller I should get now to make the upgraded power level more productive later on when I get everything else together?

I would recommend exploring what would impact your warranty before you get started. With exception maybe to air intake the rule of thumb with my ride group is pretty much "keep it stock until warranty runs out".

 

[JoeZ]

Since I plan on doing this piece by piece, as in, impeller/ring, Fizzle, then the tuner, then the XCharger, is there a size impeller I should get now to make the upgraded power level more productive later on when I get everything else together?

Unless you want to buy twice, do the pump impeller after the xcharger. Otherwise you'll be losing more performance than gaining...kinda like taking off in a Ferrari in 5th gear.

I would recommend exploring what would impact your warranty before you get started. With exception maybe to air intake the rule of thumb with my ride group is pretty much "keep it stock until warranty runs out".

Well, it's all pretty much bolt on so you can always remove it if you are concerned with warranty issues. The supercharger upgrade is a factory unit, and the Fizzle intercooler is more reliable than the older factory ones.

 

[3ftDeep]

Great stuff, Joe! I read this question all the time; finally a place with the answer and a shop to buy the parts right from.

 

[Hawk388]

Unless you want to buy twice, do the pump impeller after the xcharger. Otherwise you'll be losing more performance than gaining...kinda like taking off in a Ferrari in 5th gear.

Gotcha and thank you so much for all the great information.

 

[red2blue]

Since I plan on doing this piece by piece, as in, impeller/ring, Fizzle, then the tuner, then the XCharger, is there a size impeller I should get now to make the upgraded power level more productive later on when I get everything else together?

There are so many variables in the process....

You put that taller impeller on now...the drop in performance will astonish you.

One little addition to the puzzle...motor wise...will put you on the limiter hard...at the very least it'll make it seem like january instead of july to your ecu. Increased boost or reduced restriction will let you breath easier.

If it was me.....I'd up my air intake...first. Because everything afterwards will benefit from it.

I myself went with a (S3)charger and prop next. Ecu kept me in good afr because oem ic sucks so bad. ( if you go with an x wheel or better you'll prolly want to add fuel because you'll be too close to the border line to be comfy for long wot runs.)

I then went to an exic and more fuel and another taller prop. ( here with a better wheel I'd add the rrfr)

I just don't see how you can make the jump from 215 to 255+ with one prop....unless you do it all at once...or don't mind the drop in performance till all the pieces come together.

As for the tune....that's one go fast goodie that would take some budget manipulation for me to get past the mrs.

 

[Hawk388]

There are so many variables in the process....

You put that taller impeller on now...the drop in performance will astonish you.

One little addition to the puzzle...motor wise...will put you on the limiter hard...at the very least it'll make it seem like january instead of july to your ecu. Increased boost or reduced restriction will let you breath easier.

If it was me.....I'd up my air intake...first. Because everything afterwards will benefit from it.

I myself went with a (S3)charger and prop next. Ecu kept me in good afr because oem ic sucks so bad. ( if you go with an x wheel or better you'll prolly want to add fuel because you'll be too close to the border line to be comfy for long wot runs.)

I then went to an exic and more fuel and another taller prop. ( here with a better wheel I'd add the rrfr)

I just don't see how you can make the jump from 215 to 255+ with one prop....unless you do it all at once...or don't mind the drop in performance till all the pieces come together.

As for the tune....that's one go fast goodie that would take some budget manipulation for me to get past the mrs.

Yeah, I was thinking the impeller, like the gearing on a car, would need to be done once the power was increased. But yeah, with the cost of the tuner and tune, it's gonna be awhile before I can get things done the way I want it.

 

[JoeZ]

You're exactly right on the impeller. And for cost, that's why doing them in stages works well for most of our customers.

They can be done in any order, really, but I'd do the tune and impeller last. This is because without the tune, you'll be GPS limited for your top speed, so the impeller won't really give you additional top end anyway. Do the supercharger when you are due for your next rebuild, and the others when it financially makes sense.

 

[JoeZ]

As for the tune....that's one go fast goodie that would take some budget manipulation for me to get past the mrs.

I have some thoughts on this and how we can help you out....PM me if you're interested.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

At what point do you widen the reduction and steering nozzles? If you can't move the water, it'll just cavitate

 

[Spimothy Leary]

my riva reductions & wedge were done when the impeller and air were done.

I think the riva kit comes with 3 rings, mine only came with one I had to buy the 83.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

So you kept it at 83mm? That's the stock exit diameter of the rxp reduction nozzle

 

[JoeZ]

So the way the reduction nozzles work is to control speed and jet-width of the water exiting the pump. To put in terms of car engines, with a wider nozzle, the jet-width increases and gives you more 'torque', so your acceleration is better. However, this limits the ultimate speed of the water exiting the pump. A smaller nozzle increases the water speed, so it increases the potential top speed...like horsepower. But smaller width means it won't push as hard so acceleration is worse.

Hope this helps. You can dial in what works best through the different nozzles....if you want acceleration and are course racing, go larger. If you want top speed, go smaller.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

ya, mine came with 81 installed but I didn't have enough power to push through it, so my rxt perked up with the 83.

If I remember the 81's work better in high altitude.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Yep. I'm still playing with the nozzle diameters on my Challenger. The whole project is one big experiment and I'm still dialing things in. I have the 185hp engine in a 14.5' boat that weighs probably around 1400lbs (minus the passengers and beer). The nozzles came off an RXP, with a stock GTX impeller (11/21 I believe).
At first I was getting mad cavitation, so I changed the carbon seal. It has a new impeller, wear ring, dirve shaft, rebuilt pump, you name it. It's all been done. But I was still getting cavitation. So I figured the reduction nozzle was too small.
The top speed was about 55mph before I widened the nozzle. I went 1mm over, then noticed that I was refracting a lot of water out of the steering nozzle. Widening that proved to be a lot harder, and I killed my hone stones in short order, but I do believe I got another mm out of it as well. I still cavitate if I punch it with 2 passengers from idle, so I believe I need more width, or perhaps I should look at impeller pitch? Speed has dropped to about 50mph, which is plenty fast for a boat this small. I'm more concerned with hole shot and how strong it feels in turns. I'm one to turn the wheel :driving: