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UGH! 96' XP Carb specialists needed in here!

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1983

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Well with all of the great FAQs and previous threads on this forum I have been able to fix 99% of the problems on my 96' XP :thumbsup:

I am having one last problem that I cannot resolve.

Issue:
It will not idle, way to rich on low end, if I let off throttle completely it will load up and engine will die. I tried raising idle today no avail. If I get out of the gas after a high speed run it loads up and bogs while I attempt to keep it running by feathering throttle on low end. It does and always has run great on top end. Busted out 55 mph last weekend. If I let it sit at dock for a moment or engine is off for a period of time longer than 10-30 seconds it is very hard to restart. I have to shut off fuel valve and continue to crank with throttle wide open to get some air into engine and try and keep it from fuel hydro locking. Its almost as if carbs are just still dribbling fuel into engine at low end, idle, and when engine is off.

History on ski:
Friend owned it wasn't using it and had upgraded to newer sea doos. I got the jet ski this summer to tinker with as a project. PO only complaint was it was very hard to restart after shutting it off and letting it sit. I diagnosed that and found that the fuel tank 1 way check valve near rub rail port side was stuck closed not allowing psi out of tank thus when hot outside the tank was pressurizing and forcing fuel into carbs causing a flooding of engine when off. Upper 1 way check valve beneath hood near hood latch striker was working fine but I still removed and verified it was allowing air into tank and not out as designed. In 2012 carbs were rebuilt, ign. coil was replaced, along with some other odds and ends that the PO mechanic did on it.

Things I have done since ownership:
Ski ran great first time out after replacing fuel tank 1 way vent valve. Every ride after that it had huge bogging problem. Changed all fuel and vent lines from old gray crap tempo lines to new automotive 1/4" hose and new clamps. Still had bogging after that. Finally found out that it was the rectifier. So no more bogging and ski has run perfect on top end since. Trimmed spark plug wires back, replaced plugs multiple times and gapped them correctly. Ski continues to foul out plugs and after replacing them it runs good for a bit but eventually they are fouled again from fuel soaked hard starts. Cleaned fuel arrestor with carb cleaner. Cleaned inner carb filters multiple times. Compression test passes at 148 and 147 psi.
Rebuilt carbs and replaced needles and seats. I did make sure that needle and seats lever arm wasnt raised above carb body by using a razor blade and making sure it was all flush per OEM specs so that the diaphram wasn't pushing on it keeping needle open while off. I put the 1.5 oem mikuni with viton needle and seats in carbs. Used all oem mikuni kit for rebuild from OSD. It ran great about 3 times after the carbs were rebuilt, I finally had a use for the choke haha when cold I used it and ski started right up! That was a huge relief. It started ok... to... better than before and I could definently let it idle all day, plus after WOT runs I could totally let off throttle and it would come down and idle without me trying to keep it running like before. I thought everything was kosher until today. Went riding with suke and idoseadoo and it started all over again. Extremenly hard starts, flooding when engine is off, but it ran really great on the top end. Pop off psi is 32 and 35 so that is within spec. PSI test carbs with pop off tester and they held psi great, and during rebuild really didn't look all that bad. Filters were definently dirty when I first cleaned them due to tempo lines but now they are mint.

What am I missing here guys? Is my fuel pump bleeding fuel into carbs? No linkage is binding and keeping throttle blades open. Its definently not a lean issue because it has always had too much fuel on bottom end. Settings are factory closed on highs and 1.0 turns out on lows. Should I crank the lows in a 1/4 turn at a time? I tried that orignally before rebuilding carbs and it sorta worked but I was all the way down to 1/2 a turn out from closed on lows, and it still was too rich :(

I appreciate any and all thoughts on this.

Rob
 
Thanks, I just like to cover all the common bases so we can diag this properly. Trying to enjoy what little bit is left of summer!

Hmm, this is going to require some consideration. Excellent description. Don't give up!
 
Have you verified the jetting inside the carbs to spec? Is it possible the previous owner changed jets?
 
Forgot to mention but they are factory spec 142.5 and 70
Can you guys give me a run down of the fuel pump ? Maybe when I rebuilt it something went awry
 
Forgot to mention but they are factory spec 142.5 and 70
Can you guys give me a run down of the fuel pump ? Maybe when I rebuilt it something went awry

I think the fuel pump would be hard to mis-build. It contains a diaphragm that takes engine pulse, pushing the fuel through two check valves in series. I doubt it is your problem.

What about running with a very loose fuel cap to allow ANY excess pressure in the tank to be bled off. I know you have replaced the vent check valves, but perhaps one is in backwards or you have a "dud"
 
Krispy I've tried the cap on and off. Still has issues.

Ok everyone I just reverified compression.
153 PTO and 155 MAG.

Then decided to let it idle for a second and see if carbs were dribbling fuel.
MAG carb is definently dribbling fuel at idle so there is our culprit.

Does that mean needle and seat are being held open? Even though pop off psi tests passed after I rebuilt carbs...

I'm going to pull that carb off now... I guess I will readjust needle and seat lever then test pop off then resinstall and see if still dribbling.

What do you all think?

Thanks
Rob
 
Krispy I've tried the cap on and off. Still has issues.

Ok everyone I just reverified compression.
153 PTO and 155 MAG.

Then decided to let it idle for a second and see if carbs were dribbling fuel.
MAG carb is definently dribbling fuel at idle so there is our culprit.

Does that mean needle and seat are being held open? Even though pop off psi tests passed after I rebuilt carbs...

I'm going to pull that carb off now... I guess I will readjust needle and seat lever then test pop off then resinstall and see if still dribbling.

What do you all think?

Thanks
Rob

It sure does sound like your needle isn't seating. I know you did the pop-off tests but did you check the pop-off with the metal cover back on?

Also, do a pop-off test with LOTS of WD40 flooding the needle area. Once it POPS make sure you have NO bubbles (and you still have pressure). If you have bubbles and they disappear, GREAT. If not, problemo!

Check that out and report back.
 
When I originally did pop off tests it was with carb fully assembled.

You are saying to do the test again with cover off and inspect around needle area for bubbles?

I did use plenty of wd40 while doing previous tests and will again today's

Rob
 
-Well I just got back from lake! Good news!

-I hustled this afternoon and took MAG carb off as it was dribbling as I mentioned in a post earlier post today. Before I disassembled it, I hooked up my pop off tester and verified pop off was within spec. Then performed the 10 psi for 30 seconds pressure hold test. It failed and I could hear it hissing into carb throat. Took off cover and diaphragm, filled area with wd40 and watched pop off. (Wear safety glasses haha)

-Then did the psi hold test as before. But wanted to really confirm what was going on. Pumped it up to 20 psi and it held great then put diaphragm and cover on and held it with my thumb and pumped it back up, it bled down. Adjusted needle lever down about 4 times with very small increments each time. I would put diaphragm and cover on and held it on with my finger and pumped it up. No more bleed down. Put cover on with screws and tightened everything up then reverified pop off and no more bleed down :) Bolted it on ski. Loaded ski on trailer and headed out to boat ramp.

-It now starts like a champ cold or hot. No choke needed ever. Much more crisp throttle response through whole range, idle sounds healthier. I can got WOT and totally let off throttle and it comes right down to a nice idle. Accel is perfect, and it really feels like i put a small sneaky pete shot of nitrous on it haha. Very rough day out on lake here in NC, lots of wind and chop but was able to pull off a 53 mph. Best before repairs last weekend was 55mph on pretty smooth water but not glass. Tis weekend will hopefully get out a 56mph or higher. My raves are worn and leaking oil slowly out and down block so I know i'm losing some RPM there.

-Thanks for all suggestions guys. Finally I can enjoy my summer knowing it will start and idle better. Oh yeah, fuel consumption seems lower as well...obviously because carb is now not dribbling fuel at idle.

Rob
 
Yeah we were right on it!

Rode it so hard today almost ran out of gas haha. Had 1 bar left with light on when I got back to dock.
This thing was trying to pull my arms off today. Nailed some huge wake from a center console twin outboard boat :cheers:
 
I got My Ski 13 running top shelf! I know what you mean. I am sore as hell tonight. I spanked the hell out of it today! The Ski runs a full lenght ahead of it's sister Ski, the same year and model.
 
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