• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Trying to fix cavitation by throwing parts at it and......

Status
Not open for further replies.
A

ARCBOY

New Member
So I purchased the kit to replace seals, carbon ring, etc...

Two questions

1. What is the metal/goldish looking thing supposed to go? Does this go through the hull? If so how do I replace it as the one pic shows a black version of this and it looks like a real pain to replace and would rather not do that as I have had enough problems with this boat.

2. What groove should I use when putting the shaft back in?

IMG_2594.JPGIMG_2595.JPG
 
Go to this link and scroll to post number 2. It will show you what you want.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?71248-How-To-carbon-seal-service-and-replacement

The gold item is what looks to me to be an aftermarket collar. The picture I sent shows an OEM collar. The aftermarket may be longer than the OEM, so the groove may be in a different location. Generally, when everything is new and not worn, you put it on the furthers from the seal groove. If it doesn't leak, you are good. If it leaks, move it one groove closer.
 
Coastiejoe said:
Go to this link and scroll to post number 2. It will show you what you want.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?71248-How-To-carbon-seal-service-and-replacement

The gold item is what looks to me to be an aftermarket collar. The picture I sent shows an OEM collar. The aftermarket may be longer than the OEM, so the groove may be in a different location. Generally, when everything is new and not worn, you put it on the furthers from the seal groove. If it doesn't leak, you are good. If it leaks, move it one groove closer.
Click to expand...

Ok so the link talks about putting the prongs on the groove and if it has the third groove then that is what the C clip is used for. You're saying to use the multiple groves to move the C clip to help seal. So are the prongs in the top hat thing supposed to have prongs go in the groove? If I wanted to make it seal better which direction am I supposed to move it towards the splines or away and exposing more grooves?

You said you sent me a pic? I don't see one.

What am I supposed to do with this gold collar and how is it installed or is it even necessary?
 
The link I sent, post number two has a picture..

I can't answer your groove question and KNOW I am correct as you have an aftermarket collar. It may be longer or shorter than the OEM. I would put it together and see if you can get the collar to the middle grove with reasonable force as it is the force against the seal/boot that makes it work.

The more groves that are exposed the tighter the seal is.

The gold collar you have is he same as the silver collar that is traced with the purple line. Yours is an after market version and the one in the picture is an OEM (Original Equipment).
 
I hate having to click thru links. You just have to know how to hack thru their "Cannot be copied" pop up, LOL. Nice security, what a joke.

To do it clean just use the genuine BRP site for anything 96+
http://epc.brp.com/SiteMods/BRP_Public/BRP_Public_Login.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Index.aspx



2.gif



3.gif
 
Yes, the rebuild kits cam with all those parts and I have the impeller parts with the solas impellers.

Not sure if I should attempt to replace the gold through hull piece, I don't want to open up another can of worms if I don't have to. I am not comfortable with this through hull stuff especially since the old one looks like it is in there really good and I can't even see the external part of it, just the internal part.
 
Unless there is a legit reason, I would not touch the through hull components. Unless they fail there really isn't a reason to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The one that's in there is broke for sure. But probably not enough to warrant replacement. The end should be rolled to help keep the hose/bellow on. The length should be roughly 1" from the glass.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Agree... If there's a reason to replace it then maybe, but if it's still tight in the hull, not cracked or broken (thus won't leak) and will hold the bellows clamped to it the leave be.

Can you weld that thing in? (joke, haha!)

Any doubts, you can always take it all back apart again. What's going with that thing anyway, is it broken or something? That thru-hull has to be air tight, not lose and wobbly, or else you'll get air into the jet pump and ventilate the impeller......
 
I wish I could weld this thing.

Can't take it back as it came in a kit. I don't think its broke in any way except a little chunk taken off the internal edge.

I am currently trying to put all the parts back together and all is good except getting this stupid C-clip on the shaft. I have a the impeller and housing temporarily installed and using a 3 ft pry bar to push back everything and the big rubber boot is new and stiff and will not compress easily and I can't even see the first groove near the splines/motor side of the shaft to put the C-clip on. I might just give up and drop it off somewhere.
 
Coastiejoe said:
You can pull the pump, that normally makes it much easier.
Click to expand...

When you say pull the pump, do you mean the impeller and housing? If I do that I am assuming the shaft will just get pushed out the back of the boat, I put that on there to prevent that.
 
Yes,, build it from the Carbon seal out. It will go together one part at a time. Put the C-clip on the shaft and slide it into the collar ect ect. Then slide the pump assembly onto the shaft, ect ect
 
Thats impossible for my application. I can't do that due to all of the parts have to be on and the last thing is the C-clip. Nothing will fit through the haul except the shaft.

The only way I could see that happening is if there weren't three grooves in the shaft or I could put the shaft inside the hull at a great enough angle and put all parts on then insert into the motor. I guess I'm missing something. I can't seem to find any videos or write ups with pics of the sportster 1800 design.
 
First, do you have rubber bumpers at both ends of the driveshaft? Second, you need the pump mounted, you'll never slide the stainless hat back because the shaft will move with it. The o-rings seal to the shaft and the friction will keep moving the shaft.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
I have the one bumper on the motor side since i'm replacing the impeller parts after the shaft rebuild kit installed. I have tried to install it with the housing and without the housing and having my wifes foot on the shaft keeping it from moving but that stupid thing just can't slide in enough to expose the last groove to put the clip on. Maybe the bumper on the impeller side will help. I'm just about at a loss of ideas here.

Thanks for all the help so far, I do really appreciate it.
 
Ok, lets do this. Spray the shaft with WD and make sure the stainless hat will slide. If you're fighting friction and missing that rear bumper you're going to have a hard time. Like in my video, you should be able to pull the boot back one handed. My other hand was holding my phone taking the video. I always grease the o-rings really good so it will slide. If you're going dry it's gonna be a bitch. And if the inner o-ring is caught in one of those grooves, it's gonna be a bigger bitch.

[video=youtube;97qJA8v1MZk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97qJA8v1MZk[/video]
 
There is no way that my brand new boot will move that easily, it is really stiff and not able to move it far with one hand. It is greased up but I will try some WD tomorrow after some frustration. I will also install the bumpers in both ends which also is being a pain as it wont stay in the end of the shaft since it pops out so I'm just hoping it stays in location and doesn't turn all cockeyed as I put it all together.

Also in your video it looks like you have a lot more space between the boot on the motor and the SS hat, I guess this is a different boat or PWC.
 
Just another thought on that bumper.... If yours doesn't have the air vent hole you might be able to use a syringe needle to vent the trapped air. I've found them at farm supply stores such as Tractor Supply and use them for lots of things, such as sneaking grease past the lip seals of/into sealed bearings.

A lot of people report having trouble installing those rubber bellows, there must be some really stiff ones out there. Mine came from WSM and is fairly easy to collapse, not sure what's up with that, could be there just aren't the same clearances in some configurations.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ARCBOY said:
There is no way that my brand new boot will move that easily, it is really stiff and not able to move it far with one hand. It is greased up but I will try some WD tomorrow after some frustration. I will also install the bumpers in both ends which also is being a pain as it wont stay in the end of the shaft since it pops out so I'm just hoping it stays in location and doesn't turn all cockeyed as I put it all together.

Also in your video it looks like you have a lot more space between the boot on the motor and the SS hat, I guess this is a different boat or PWC.
Click to expand...

Some of the SBT kits I use have boots like that, I get everything in place on the shaft ready for the retaining clip and then grab two small terry cloth shop towels, wet them down and microwave one at a time for about a minute. That produces a steaming hot rag in my shop micro that needs to be fished out with pliers and then applied to the boot, while the first one is heating things up I do the next one.

Those boots move by hand pretty easily after you get them warmed up like that, just watch the steam coming out of the towels that will burn your hand.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

SDC_MI
1996 Speedster Cable Replacement And Major Cavitation Problem
2
Replies
30
Views
866
treimche
treimche
C
update and fix
Replies
0
Views
157
camiezone
C
J
*FIXED* Don't buy Titan Performance wear rings! 1998 Challenger 1800 extreme cavitation and uneven wear after new wear rings. HELP!
Replies
6
Views
480
mikidymac
mikidymac
12splash
seadoo sp 587 3300rpm limit
Replies
1
Views
134
Venturian1
V
MoveAround44
1996 Sportster - Need Help Getting the Driveshaft off the Engine
Replies
5
Views
326
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top