Transducer mounting/cable running on 2008 Utopia 205 SE

[TheTripletDaddy]

Hey folks, just picked up a 2008 Utopia early this spring and have been enjoying the water all summer. Decided I wanted Nav and Fishfinder. After a ton of research, and really wanting to leverage both the DI and SI capabilities of my new Helix 7, I've decided I want to go the transom mount route.

So, my plan is to use a Stern Pad to avoid having to drill through the hull as much as possible. Also, after inspecting the bottom extremely close up, there's a pretty clean spot directly to the left of the speed sensor. I can't see any friction down the hull in front of where I want to place it and, because it'll be near the lowest point on the hull, it should always be touching water on or off plane with little to no bubbles/cavitation.



So far, so good. Now is where I have the problem. Where do I run the wires back into the hull?



I'm trying to find a drain inlet that I can tie into, but I don't really see one back there. I saw an install from a "pro" who used a drain by feeding it up through the drain in the back of the boat, inserting a brass t-fitting in the engine bay on that same drain line where he then reconnected the drain on both sides, but exited the cable out of the "T" and filled around the cable with silicon. Looked pretty cool.




Does anyone know if that's a drain I could leverage?

So, I'm not opposed to drilling a hole in hole on the bottom side of the swim platform. It's mostly out of water unless everyone is standing on it, but it may be my best/only access point. Anyone done this?

Also wondering if this distance between the transducer and the jet when in reverse would put a ton of pressure on and/or create a lot of turbulance for the transducer?



My last thought/question here is whether or not anyone with a boat that came with a depth gauge replaced it with a puck transducer leveraging the hole that's already there? (see below diagram)

 

[JPass]

When installing a transducer it's always good to test it before permanently installing it. I'd find a way to stick or hold the external transponder in the place of your liking to see if there's any interference from the jet drive in both forward and reverse.

Most people I see who run an external transponder run the wire up under the platform like your first pic.

What's under the hull in the location of the OEM transducer from your last pic? A through hull transducer is easy to mount and should be tested as well prior to install. You can place a through hull transducer in a plastic bag with water and various spots on the floor of the bilge to test it.

 

[enut]

I agree with JPass, you should find a way to temporarily mount it so you can test it out. I have the same boat and I want to install a Garmin Echomap. There is no room on the helm because of the way the windshield is designed. These boats were not designed for this. The factory depth gauge is almost impossible to get to. I think that the other option may be to mount it on a trolling motor or a mount like a trolling motor, but that would be temporary. Keep us posted on your results.

 

[TheTripletDaddy]

I agree with JPass, you should find a way to temporarily mount it so you can test it out. I have the same boat and I want to install a Garmin Echomap. There is no room on the helm because of the way the windshield is designed. These boats were not designed for this. The factory depth gauge is almost impossible to get to. I think that the other option may be to mount it on a trolling motor or a mount like a trolling motor, but that would be temporary. Keep us posted on your results.

Will do. I actually have a Hummingbird Helix 7 that I plan on mounting on the left side of the console through the small section of fiberglass. It appears to fit nicely with a good view from the captain’s chair if I use a Ram Mount. Only problem is, I can’t figure out how to get my hands under there to put on the fender washers and nylon nuts. So, I haven’t started drilling yet, but am thinking I need to move some stuff around in the fuse panel to squeeze my hands up there.

 

[enut]

The bow seat back in front of the helm flips up. You can see right thru to the console, but unless you have very long arms forget it. You can pull the instrument cluster out a bit. there is a nut behind the bow seat back. Then the black Philips screws under the steering wheel.

 

[TheTripletDaddy]

The bow seat back in front of the helm flips up. You can see right thru to the console, but unless you have very long arms forget it. You can pull the instrument cluster out a bit. there is a nut behind the bow seat back. Then the black Philips screws under the steering wheel.

Haha, just figured that out late last night combing through old threads. So, I drilled the holes for the Ram ball mount this morning and have that on the left side of the console. Now, I just have to figure out how to tie the power into the fuse box. The fuse box has a backside support bracket it’s looking like I’m going to need to remove to be able to unlock the fuse box, pull it more towards the front seat and then tie in the power on a 3A fuse. Probably won’t get around to installing the transducer until I get her home and where she’ll be dry for at least a week.

 

[TheTripletDaddy]

The bow seat back in front of the helm flips up. You can see right thru to the console, but unless you have very long arms forget it. You can pull the instrument cluster out a bit. there is a nut behind the bow seat back. Then the black Philips screws under the steering wheel.

I’m still planning on doing a dedicated post of the install, but have the transducer on the back and the cable running through the hull above the waterline on the top of the transom.

How do you get from the helm to the engine bay along the starboard side panels to run the transducer all the way to the FF?

 

[enut]

I took a look at the service manual. It is a little confusing, but my first attempt would be as follows: Remove the speaker. Then you fish the wires from the bilge starting at the very bottom of the starboard side. That side compartment where you store stuff, you will be snaking the wiring underneath that. Pulling the speaker out will help you to grab the wire as you are feeding it into the helm area. If you are unsure, looking from the front seatback, with a flashlight, peak in and see where the shifter/throttle cables are coming from. See if they are coming up from the bottom or somewhere else.

 

[TheTripletDaddy]

I took a look at the service manual. It is a little confusing, but my first attempt would be as follows: Remove the speaker. Then you fish the wires from the bilge starting at the very bottom of the starboard side. That side compartment where you store stuff, you will be snaking the wiring underneath that. Pulling the speaker out will help you to grab the wire as you are feeding it into the helm area. If you are unsure, looking from the front seatback, with a flashlight, peak in and see where the shifter/throttle cables are coming from. See if they are coming up from the bottom or somewhere else.

Great point. Will give that a shot over the next couple of days. I'm going to end up having a bonus share when all is done. Unfortunately, I had one of my brake calipers shear in half on the drive home and completely bent the inside of the wheel. So, going to add new wheels and use the remaining good wheel as a spare (didn't have one previously), as well as replacing the entire brake system on both sides. Busy weekend ahead.

 

[rsatina2002]

Hey folks, just picked up a 2008 Utopia early this spring and have been enjoying the water all summer. Decided I wanted Nav and Fishfinder. After a ton of research, and really wanting to leverage both the DI and SI capabilities of my new Helix 7, I've decided I want to go the transom mount route.

So, my plan is to use a Stern Pad to avoid having to drill through the hull as much as possible. Also, after inspecting the bottom extremely close up, there's a pretty clean spot directly to the left of the speed sensor. I can't see any friction down the hull in front of where I want to place it and, because it'll be near the lowest point on the hull, it should always be touching water on or off plane with little to no bubbles/cavitation.

View attachment 43271

So far, so good. Now is where I have the problem. Where do I run the wires back into the hull?

View attachment 43272

I'm trying to find a drain inlet that I can tie into, but I don't really see one back there. I saw an install from a "pro" who used a drain by feeding it up through the drain in the back of the boat, inserting a brass t-fitting in the engine bay on that same drain line where he then reconnected the drain on both sides, but exited the cable out of the "T" and filled around the cable with silicon. Looked pretty cool.

View attachment 43273
View attachment 43274

Does anyone know if that's a drain I could leverage?

So, I'm not opposed to drilling a hole in hole on the bottom side of the swim platform. It's mostly out of water unless everyone is standing on it, but it may be my best/only access point. Anyone done this?

Also wondering if this distance between the transducer and the jet when in reverse would put a ton of pressure on and/or create a lot of turbulance for the transducer?

View attachment 43275

My last thought/question here is whether or not anyone with a boat that came with a depth gauge replaced it with a puck transducer leveraging the hole that's already there? (see below diagram)

View attachment 43276

Hey folks, just picked up a 2008 Utopia early this spring and have been enjoying the water all summer. Decided I wanted Nav and Fishfinder. After a ton of research, and really wanting to leverage both the DI and SI capabilities of my new Helix 7, I've decided I want to go the transom mount route.

So, my plan is to use a Stern Pad to avoid having to drill through the hull as much as possible. Also, after inspecting the bottom extremely close up, there's a pretty clean spot directly to the left of the speed sensor. I can't see any friction down the hull in front of where I want to place it and, because it'll be near the lowest point on the hull, it should always be touching water on or off plane with little to no bubbles/cavitation.

View attachment 43271

So far, so good. Now is where I have the problem. Where do I run the wires back into the hull?

View attachment 43272

I'm trying to find a drain inlet that I can tie into, but I don't really see one back there. I saw an install from a "pro" who used a drain by feeding it up through the drain in the back of the boat, inserting a brass t-fitting in the engine bay on that same drain line where he then reconnected the drain on both sides, but exited the cable out of the "T" and filled around the cable with silicon. Looked pretty cool.

View attachment 43273
View attachment 43274

Does anyone know if that's a drain I could leverage?

So, I'm not opposed to drilling a hole in hole on the bottom side of the swim platform. It's mostly out of water unless everyone is standing on it, but it may be my best/only access point. Anyone done this?

Also wondering if this distance between the transducer and the jet when in reverse would put a ton of pressure on and/or create a lot of turbulance for the transducer?

View attachment 43275

My last thought/question here is whether or not anyone with a boat that came with a depth gauge replaced it with a puck transducer leveraging the hole that's already there? (see below diagram)

View attachment 43276

Here is what I did to my, 2002 challenger 2000 I did make a hole on the starboard side near the speed sensor and apply a marine kit that help it seal the water and apply the 3m marine sealant and cut both wires going to starboard side going towards the steering wheel and i remove the speakers on starboard side to run the wires and cut the wire in the middle and solder it really good and apply a liquid tape and my lowrance hook 7 runs very good and clear without any distortion except when running very fast but overall application is easy except soldering the tiny wiring connections that power up and communicate the transducer to the panel. I used lowrance hook 7.