Trailer maintenance

[Craigmri]

Now that the boat is home I had the urge to do some trailer maintenance on my 2007 Seadoo/Karavan trailer.

I noticed in the trailer Manual Karavan sent me there is a grease system sort of similar to "Bearing Buddies". I was about to buy a set until I read the manual. According to the manual it says when you pump in the grease it goes directly to the inner bearing first then works its way to the outer bearing before oozing out near the zerk fitting.

I popped the rubber seals off the hub and saw the zerk fitting. I had three tubes of grease gun grease for Marine trailers that I never used so away I went. We jacked up one side at a time and I had my son rotate the wheel while I slowly pumped new grease into the hub. On the first side it took a lot of grease before it started to ooze out like it was supposed to. When it finally started to flow out it was dark in color but noticed some small metal specks in the grease. We basically kept pumping in grease and rotating wheel until the grease coming out was the new stuff going in. It took a tube and a half. On the second hub I first noticed some condensation inside on the zerk fitting and the grease looked white-ish. Again it took a while before grease started to flow and for a while it was coming out white-ish then started to be black then eventually the new stuff started to come out. Again, about a tube and a half. I noticed some small metal specs in this side too.

I wonder of the metal specks is a sign of the bearings just seating and breaking in or possibly something more serious????

I now wish I made the dealer in NC pump some grease inside before I made the 500 mile trip home on the interstate.

Anyone have similar experience?

Craig

 

[seadoosnipe]

Grease?......

Well, think of it like this, ....had something happened on the way home, he'd have had to pay the expenses.

It's normal to see slight wear in your bearings like that. Most people don't pump the grease till they see the new grease. That's good on your part.

But, over time, the bearings will wear, no matter how much grease you put in them. Then, you'll be changing innner and outer races and bearings.

Yes......this is all normal........:cheers:

 

[Craigmri]

Texaco

Snipe, thanks for the reply....I read in a few places that its not recommended to mix different grease. The Karavan manual says they used Texaco #2 or something like that. I decided since I had the grease on hand I might as well make an effort to pump out all the Texaco stuff and put in all new so no worries about mixing.

I checked wheel play while the wheel was jacked up and there was none so I assume I'm ok for now. I'll probably repeat this procedure in 6 months.

Craig

Well, think of it like this, ....had something happened on the way home, he'd have had to pay the expenses.

It's normal to see slight wear in your bearings like that. Most people don't pump the grease till they see the new grease. That's good on your part.

But, over time, the bearings will wear, no matter how much grease you put in them. Then, you'll be changing innner and outer races and bearings.

Yes......this is all normal........:cheers:

 

[Seadoopilot]

Trailer safty , Just Do It !!!!!

Snipe, thanks for the reply....I read in a few places that its not recommended to mix different grease. The Karavan manual says they used Texaco #2 or something like that. I decided since I had the grease on hand I might as well make an effort to pump out all the Texaco stuff and put in all new so no worries about mixing.

I checked wheel play while the wheel was jacked up and there was none so I assume I'm ok for now. I'll probably repeat this procedure in 6 months.

Craig

First of all mixing grease is not a problem , dont worry about it . But is this a new trailer , sounds like they put just a dab of grease on the roller berrings and let it go at that . BULL HOCKY . I would have wiped the grease off of the berring buddy that had the metal shaving in it on a clean paper towel , Thken it back to the dealer and demanded to have it reberringed ,( repacked ) would have not been enough . It is unsat . and at no time should condinsation have gotten in there . Atleast not if it had any grease in it . Now the seals are also suspect.
You could have had a hub fall off while driving . Word to the wise
When ever buying a new trailer . Have it greased , Never believe when they say it is , You can even do this at WalMart.
Second , Drive for 10 miles , then get out and put your hand on the hub its self , If it is a little warm , Fine , If it is hot STOP you have a problem .
Then if it was only a little warm then you can drive 50 miles and stop and do it again . If only a little warm . you are good to go . HOT then STOP You have a problem . Then on a long trip , every time you stop you should just touch the hubs . to check them . When a berring is failing you , it gets hot first .
The wiggle test is good but you can tighten a hub on a ground up berring and keep it from wiggling .
I am a truck driver and have seen hundreds of wheels come off of boat trailers . and you know that a tire coming off at 65MPH can kill some one else . How would you feel then ? Now is it worth it ?
Also if your trailer does not have Berring Buddies or Cat eyes , or Red Eyes or some other type of self lubricating hub , get them . If you live near me in houston and dont have them I will give you a set . E-Mail me
While on a rant , The safty chains are to be crossed , that way , if it comes un hitched it falls on the crossed chains and you can maintain controle.
Use the right ball with the right hitch. and your tow rating is for the venicles Braking capabilitys , not its ability to move it . If your car stated a max of 2000lbs towing , that assumes that you dont have the passengers overloaded also . and dont try to tow 3000 , or just plan on hitting that child that runs after a ball in the street.
OK I have Bit**ed enough , but know that it is only with safty in mind . and keep on boating.:rant::rant:

 

[Craigmri]

Pilot,

All great advice! I did exactly what you said when I towed the boat home 500 miles on the interstate. Every stop I immediety felt both the hubs and the tires for heat. The hubs never felt hot. Bearly warm.

Glad you reminded me about crossing the chains. I havent been doing that and you reminded me to do it. I suspect if the ball, tongue, receiver or whatever fails the crossed chains should cradle the tongue hopefully so you can pull over safely.

While we're on trailer maintenance, has anyone flushed the brake fluid on these trailers?

Craig

 

[Seadoopilot]

Pilot,

Glad you reminded me about crossing the chains. I havent been doing that and you reminded me to do it. I suspect if the ball, tongue, receiver or whatever fails the crossed chains should cradle the tongue hopefully so you can pull over safely.

While we're on trailer maintenance, has anyone flushed the brake fluid on these trailers?

Craig

Also remember that the chains are drooping alot you need to twist them until there is little droop.

Next

Depends on what trailer you have , The most common trailer brake is the Electric type , but not geratly sutable for Marine usage , Rappid wear. corroaded wires etc.
The best is a surge brake that has a resavour and master cylinder right on the toung . The master cylinder will usually have (but not always) a tear away lever that attaches to the bumper that has a sort of rattchet to lock down the brakes if it comes detached . Now this lever can be used to pump the brakes exactly like you would pumping the brake peddel on a car . That having been said , It is still MUCH Easier to (power bleed ) at a shop .
NOW
Many people do not even realize that MOST of these small single axle do not have brakes .
So When towing ,
do the following.
#1 Make sure they see you . ( Keep your lights on )
#2 Leave yourself an out . (Know where to steer if something happens)
#3 Keep your eyes moving ( Dont fixate on the person in front of you)
#4 Aim high in steering (look about 15 seconds down the road to see what is coming)
#5 Get the big picture (Know everything going on around your vehicle & Trailer)

and last but not least
Dont hate me for poor spelling
God Bless You and Yours

 

[kustomkarl]

You shouldn't need to flush the fluid for a long time. I would keep an eye on the level at like every 2 dunking to be sure it isn't leaking and the use the grease gun while your at it. Trailer maintenance is very important and gets over looked often. Use grease on the lug nuts studs in the wheels too. I prefer to use water proof grease both on the stud and the fittings. Don't use any anti-seize on the studs as it causes the lugs to back off. Be sure to torque them the recommended torque. Remember to unplug the lights too before you dunk it in the water to keep the electrolysis from corroding the trailer from the voltage, and the bulbs won't "pop" from the cold water. I have been a Draw-Tite dealer for 25 years and have seen it all happen.

Karl

 

[Craigmri]

Surge Brakes

Pilot,

Mine has the surge brakes. I have that break away cable your talking about. So what your saying is I can basically pull on that cable when cracking the bleeder screw open and keep the master cylinder full and flush out the fluid? Is it as simple as that? I've bled brakes on cars before so its a simple process for me if the concepts are the same.

Craig

Also remember that the chains are drooping alot you need to twist them until there is little droop.

Next

Depends on what trailer you have , The most common trailer brake is the Electric type , but not geratly sutable for Marine usage , Rappid wear. corroaded wires etc.
The best is a surge brake that has a resavour and master cylinder right on the toung . The master cylinder will usually have (but not always) a tear away lever that attaches to the bumper that has a sort of rattchet to lock down the brakes if it comes detached . Now this lever can be used to pump the brakes exactly like you would pumping the brake peddel on a car . That having been said , It is still MUCH Easier to (power bleed ) at a shop .
NOW
Many people do not even realize that MOST of these small single axle do not have brakes .
So When towing ,
do the following.
#1 Make sure they see you . ( Keep your lights on )
#2 Leave yourself an out . (Know where to steer if something happens)
#3 Keep your eyes moving ( Dont fixate on the person in front of you)
#4 Aim high in steering (look about 15 seconds down the road to see what is coming)
#5 Get the big picture (Know everything going on around your vehicle & Trailer)

and last but not least
Dont hate me for poor spelling
God Bless You and Yours

 

[Seadoopilot]

You shouldn't need to flush the fluid for a long time. I would keep an eye on the level at like every 2 dunking to be sure it isn't leaking and the use the grease gun while your at it. Trailer maintenance is very important and gets over looked often. Use grease on the lug nuts studs in the wheels too. I prefer to use water proof grease both on the stud and the fittings. Don't use any anti-seize on the studs as it causes the lugs to back off. Be sure to torque them the recommended torque. Remember to unplug the lights too before you dunk it in the water to keep the electrolysis from corroding the trailer from the voltage, and the bulbs won't "pop" from the cold water. I have been a Draw-Tite dealer for 25 years and have seen it all happen.

Karl

:agree: Verry true and thank you about the advise disconnecting the electrics
I truely never thought of that and it makes perfict sence. I will do that from now on . I think I will even make a yellow caution tag advising that on all of my trailer pigtails.

 

[Seadoopilot]

Pilot,

So what your saying is I can basically pull on that cable when cracking the bleeder screw open and keep the master cylinder full and flush out the fluid? Is it as simple as that?
Craig

Yep , That simple , but If you have the time I think a power bleed is still better