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Trailer Hook Loose - Options

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larrybr45

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Hello, not sure what happened, but my trailer hook on the boat is a little loose. I have a small 1" crack running below the hook, and some flaking outer coat near it. When I push in on it it is pretty firm, but a little softness. On the inside, i do not see any cracks coming through.

I can of course tighten the bolt heads, but this could force the metal backing to go right through the fiberglass and I have a bigger problem.

Is there a way I can strengthen BOTH the inside and outside hull in the hook area?

I thought I could put some type of compound in the area after taking out the hook, but if I make it too thick on both sides, the screw length on the hook will no longer be long enough with the added fiberglass.

So, what to do? Is there a strengthening compound for inside and outside of the hull, and how can this all be done?

Thanks
Lar :blush:
 
I don't have that problem right now. But I can see some crack lines on the gel coat near the hook. The hook takes a lot of force, doesn't it? When transferring on the trailer it is this hook holding it from sliding back right? That is maybe the reason to make sure the trailer is level?


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Hello, not sure what happened, but my trailer hook on the boat is a little loose. I have a small 1" crack running below the hook, and some flaking outer coat near it. When I push in on it it is pretty firm, but a little softness. On the inside, i do not see any cracks coming through.

I can of course tighten the bolt heads, but this could force the metal backing to go right through the fiberglass and I have a bigger problem.

Is there a way I can strengthen BOTH the inside and outside hull in the hook area?

I thought I could put some type of compound in the area after taking out the hook, but if I make it too thick on both sides, the screw length on the hook will no longer be long enough with the added fiberglass.

So, what to do? Is there a strengthening compound for inside and outside of the hull, and how can this all be done?

Thanks
Lar :blush:

If it were mine, I would get a piece of metal that matches the inside "V" of the hull and drills hols that match the u-bolt of the eye on the front of the boat. I would go one step further and get a piece of stainless that matches the outside "V" of the hull where the U-bolt comes through and drill the holes to match.

It sounds like to me that you or something hit the the U-bolt and flexed the hull pretty good.
 
If it were mine, I would get a piece of metal that matches the inside "V" of the hull and drills hols that match the u-bolt of the eye on the front of the boat. I would go one step further and get a piece of stainless that matches the outside "V" of the hull where the U-bolt comes through and drill the holes to match.

It sounds like to me that you or something hit the the U-bolt and flexed the hull pretty good.

More added to this two metal pieces idea: two pieces of rubber could be added to this "sandwich" because the metal piece won't fit the Fiberglass exactly. Rubber will spread out the clamping force.


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If it were mine, I would get a piece of metal that matches the inside "V" of the hull and drills hols that match the u-bolt of the eye on the front of the boat. I would go one step further and get a piece of stainless that matches the outside "V" of the hull where the U-bolt comes through and drill the holes to match.

It sounds like to me that you or something hit the the U-bolt and flexed the hull pretty good.


best advice right there!
 
More added to this two metal pieces idea: two pieces of rubber could be added to this "sandwich" because the metal piece won't fit the Fiberglass exactly. Rubber will spread out the clamping force.


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negative on the rubber. you don`t want any flex at all to spread the holes for the U bolt further.

without actually seeing what`s going on, MarineTex might do the trick. I think if the hull or holes are fracturing I`d mix up some epoxy and also add the plates as Coastie suggested...

if that tow hook come out at force, you`ll get beaned right in the noggin.

also the trailer is not always flat. I have some pretty steep ramps here. best case is when that occurs is I`ll get the boat on the trailer enough to hook up the safety chain, then once on flat ground i`ll hit the brakes and the boat will slide up to the bow roller which is only a few inches away. then lock it down...
 
I think getting the metal piece will be tough for me. Could I put some sort of a strong compound on the outer side (and then cover the steel plate between the hook ends) and shape to the hull, and then put compound on the inside of the hull and cover the plate but leave the bolts open? is there a strong compound to reinforce the hull I could use?

thanks
lar
 
I think getting the metal piece will be tough for me. Could I put some sort of a strong compound on the outer side (and then cover the steel plate between the hook ends) and shape to the hull, and then put compound on the inside of the hull and cover the plate but leave the bolts open? is there a strong compound to reinforce the hull I could use?

thanks
lar

I am not an expert, (or not even close :-D).
Just throwing out there: It is made by fiberglass, can you fix it by fiberglass repair process, layer by layer?
 
I have no doubt that you can strengthen it from the outside only. That said, NOTHING will compare to reinforcing it from the inside. I would do whatever it takes to get to the inside. I am not saying it will be easy, but it is the right thing to do. If you ever need to be towed, it will be because you either broke down or you need help. That is NOT the time to discover the repair doesn't hold...
 
There are many compound and resins that will work. You will want to clean the inner hull very well with acetone for example. Then the product you use should stick. As far as metal goes, I would think any metal fabricating shop can easily help you.
 
As far as using fiberglass resins in repairs it is very important to grind the surfaces in preparation before applying resin. Then wipe down with acetone generously. As Coastie said, the area has obviously been damaged. The correct way to repair this would be to remove the "hook" and grind the area from the inside to open up the damage. Go back in with resin and woven roving after first putting tape over the bolt hole where hook was removed. When the repair is complete you can remove the tape and drill the hole out. Many times manufacturers will put wooden (plywood mostly) in these stress areas as a "backer". If you do find any wood in there I strongly suggest replacing it. One thing is for sure. If not fixed properly busted glass will spread and continue to give you problems.
 
Just a couple pointers as far as working with fiberglass resins in general...
Resins will NOT stick to gelcoat. It must be ground down to bare glass.
Manufacturers use release agents to be certain the end product releases from the mold. Grind grind and then grind some more.:facepalm:
Stay away from the cheap stuff at auto supply stores meant for body repair. The West System stuff is not bad that West Marine sells.
 
I found some locative epoxy in a tube that ensures equal mixture. It says 3000 psi...could I use this compound inside and outside the hull to repair? The ratings on this compound look really good. Looks like it works good with fiberglass, and I don't have to use any kind of liber glass net?

Thanks
Lar
 
It might hold up but I have doubts. I have made many repairs the right way after shortcuts have been tried and failed. I would urge you to repair it once and done.
 
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