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Top end boring?

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pags1220

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Quick question. If I have to rebuild my top end. Is boring absolutely necessary? Or if the cylinders are not scored and in good shape would a standard size piston and rings be OK ?

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Yup, but only if you are triple sure they have never been bored before. It's a good idea to hone the cylinders at the very least


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I would just hone and re-ring the original pistons, get new wrist pins and bearings(if you completely removed the pistons from the rods) and run with it. I would not buy new pistons.
 
I've seen everything come in lots for around 200. Comes with pins pistons and everything to assemble.

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Well I got the head off and what do you know. Looks like snagged rings from the rave valve. There all chewed up. Put very minimal dimples on the head. The bottom end looks pretty good. But I'm going to rebuild the top end. So what do you guys suggest. How much should I bore it over. And how much power gain should I expect from it. I may as well add some other upgrades at this point lol

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Stock is 82mm
Next is 82.25 with oem
Then 82.25--82.5--82.75--83mm if you go with wsm.
Id go absolute minimal boring.
So if they measure out to be 82.0 to 82.15, you migh get away with the 82.25.
82.5 is what I personally use if I have to bore but ive needed it in each case. Each time ive used the wsm kits with all gaskets needed included.

Get a measurement of your bores first and then decide :)
 
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I plan on taking the cylinders to a machine shop around my area and let them mesure everything out. From other pics I've seen. My situation don't look too bad.

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Nope. Been there myself.

How much time is on this engine ?

The cranks usually cant take a fresh top end if they have more than 2-300 hours on them. At least thats what I hear. With mine I just did the crank exchange so I could be sure it would last.
 
The previous owner said it was a complete rebuild. I'm not sure how many actual hours are on it. Every gasket looks to be brand new and pretty much every bolts been molested. The whole motor in general looks pretty clean for the year so I wouldn't be surprised if it was rebuilt. Maybe they just made a simple mistake and didn't shave down the rave valves.

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Hate to be the bearer of bad new bro, but those jugs are already 1.00mm over. Next size it 1.5, if it were me I would not be going there. Either hunt down a set of jugs to get bored or send the engine in and swap it for a reman and let them worry about re-sleeving it.

Look at the lower side of the piston (@ 7:00) and you'll see the 1.00 stamped on the piston.

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Gahhh. Damn it. Well I just seen a set of jugs with everything on ebay with wsm pistons and everything you need for a top end. So I guess it's a true complete kit. 289 after a 150 core exchange. I guess that's my only option at this point.

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Well I got the head off and what do you know. Looks like snagged rings from the rave valve. There all chewed up. Put very minimal dimples on the head. The bottom end looks pretty good. But I'm going to rebuild the top end. So what do you guys suggest. How much should I bore it over. And how much power gain should I expect from it. I may as well add some other upgrades at this point lol

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Rave valves on a 657? Are you sure you've got the stock engine in that ski? In either case I would suggest taking the easy way out, since this is not the first rebuild, get a rebuilt short block.

Lou
 
I saw that kit from JJ Machinery, zoom in on those jugs. They look pretty gnarly in the jackets. Now, that might just be a stock pic the guy too, so ASK questions before you punch the Buy it now button. Ask what size over they are. Hate to see you get another 1.00mm over right off the bat.
 
Rave valves on a 657? Are you sure you've got the stock engine in that ski? In either case I would suggest taking the easy way out, since this is not the first rebuild, get a rebuilt short block.

Lou


I think this is a different ski, not the ski in his watercraft list.
 
Yea it is a new ski. I had so much fun on the first I decided to get another. Plus I enjoy working on these things. It's fun and relaxing. I will absolutely question it. A few of them state there .05 mm over. Even if it's not a qualifying core. The cost of new jugs plus the bore will still end up costing more. Sorry I forgot to add the new ski in my list guys. Even with some knowledge I'm still a newbie lll

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Just spend your money wisely. If you're at $550 to $600 for a top end and a complete reman is only $200 to $250 more, your best bet would be to step in that direction. Just don't over extend...... Hate to see you drop a top end on only to throw a rod cause some metal fragments scattered into the bottom end.
 
This is true. Where can I look for a full remand engine? Everywhere I've checked it's about 1100 1200 bucks. That's why I was leaning towards a top end. Also I'd like to upgrade the prop and wear ring.

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The Spx runs really well and I have a ski for the summer so I'm really in no rush. I just have to throttle down my excitement a bit lol

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The most I calculated a complete top end was 439. Thats if they don't take my jugs as a core.

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For instance: a standard (1 year warranty) 787 from SBT is $845 plus I think $130 shipping (includes return shipping) and another $32.95 for a installation gasket set. So your at a grand, but your all new including the rave valves and housings and bellows. I would also recommend at a minimum cleaning the carbs, but would more than likely just completely rebuild them. I know it's more than double, but like I said I'd hate to see you drop $439 run the summer and have it let loose again. I know you're not going to take it easy on it, the 787 is just too fun to not be on the gas. Just shop around and be wise.

http://www.shopsbt.com/seadoo-jet-s...engine-787-800-xp-gsx-gtx-spx-challenger.html

http://www.shopsbt.com/seadoo-jet-s...-install-gasket-kit-xp-gsx-gtx-xp-spx-xp.html
 
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Yea that's way over double lol kind of out of my price range for now. Is there a way to inspect the inside a bit more to see if there's any shavings? It looks like the Pistons got torn up to a minimum. But you are right it's always better safe then sorry. There's still a lot that I have to do to the ski and don't want to end up paying 3k for a 1997 lol

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I hear you that you don't want 3K into a 97, but it will last you for years. I'm probably the worst guy to give you advice on which way to go. I dump new parts into my stuff at once, but I want to ride headache free and not wonder then the hammer is going to drop. There are procedures in the service manual to check the crank against, the cases don't look nasty inside so you might be OK. Somedays you gotta roll the dice, I'm not too much of a gambler.
 
I hear ya on that. I'm gona further inspect before I make a decision. If I'm gona reman the engine then I'm going to just overhaul the whole ski. No point in stopping at the halfway mark.

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