To Buy or Not to Buy (1996 Seadoo GTX)

[android7777]

I need some opinions for the pros on seadoo forum. I may be purchasing another ski. I wanted a ski to pull tubes, and it looks like i may be able to get a 1996 Seadoo GTX. It will need some work though. I have a couple pictures of the engine compartment.



I would only be paying from 500 - 800 bucks for it, and I have two other ski's that could use the parts. The ski has not been running since 2011, but it does have all its parts. Seems like the owner is just trying to get rid of it. What do you think?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

It's a great ski for pulling tubers or skiers. It's also a 3 seater which you need in some states to pull tubers.
When running right it will be in the 52-57 MPH range with one person on it.

It def needs a clean up inside the hull.....check compression should be 150psi, does it have gray fuel lines, if so then change them, change the pump oil too, clean or rebuild the carbs and filters.
I would also replace the old oil lines as much as possible.
After that you are set to go and have fun if nothing else is wrong.

BTW, I love my 96 GTX.

 

[android7777]

I am exited about having a longer ski to pull tubers. I have been doing it on my GSX, and it is tough when your sitting back to back with someone. I have been looking for one for a while now.

I guess I am just concerned about it not running since 2011. When I bought the two ski's that I have, they were both running. Granted I still had to do a ton of maintenance to do on them since then anyways, but the engine was at least in running order. The body is in good shape, but the ski is not in running condition. Its motor will not turn over, and I do not know why yet. I will not even be able to do a compression check on it since the battery is dead. I may have to do some engine work on it or send it in. My concern is am I paying too much for a ski in this shape?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I am exited about having a longer ski to pull tubers. I have been doing it on my GSX, and it is tough when your sitting back to back with someone. I have been looking for one for a while now.

I guess I am just concerned about it not running since 2011. When I bought the two ski's that I have, they were both running. Granted I still had to do a ton of maintenance to do on them since then anyways, but the engine was at least in running order. The body is in good shape, but the ski is not in running condition. Its motor will not turn over, and I do not know why yet. I will not even be able to do a compression check on it since the battery is dead. I may have to do some engine work on it or send it in. My concern is am I paying too much for a ski in this shape?

if you pay 800 your definately paying too much.

for something dirty engine bay (and thats very dirty but will clean up in an hour) , not running... but otherwise nice hull, i'd put the price in the sub $450 range IF your keeping it for a personal ski.... so $500 is not out of line... even if it needs a rebuild... but i'd rather you pay $350ish.... (assume the worst, hope for the best) but in the long run and extra $150 isn't that big of a deal IMO, especially if the hull itself is pretty clean... since I know myself I can spend $150 on fuel and oil in a long weekend....

from a part-out/flip perspective, its $250-00 all day long... so in other words, the seller will be hard pressed to get an offer that's higher than $300 from your average craigslister/flipper... and thats who the majority of his calls are going to come from...

back to the engine itself... when you say it won't turn over... does that mean the PTO doesn't turn.. ? or it cranks but won't start... thats a huge difference there.... and have you ever torn down and rebuilt an engine ? (thats important as well, since labor can get quite pricey)

what I don't want you to do is end up spending $2000 putting together a $1500 ski.... (although duly noted that your ski will likely at that point have a brand new power plant thats under warranty till next summer)

ya you might see my $2,000 price tag and say... WTF.. but trust me you can get nickle and dimed quick.... engine, mats, steering cables, pump rebuild, prop maybe, throttle cable, new grips, seat cover, battery, the list goes on and on and on....

 

[kicker]

If the hull is in good shape it would be worth it. But that is only if you are willing or prepared to put another $1200 into it because it is not running. There is a good chance the motor is poached so you have to count on that. If you get it home and manage to get it running BONUS!!
Take a fresh battery and comp tester with you and see if you can get it to turn over with the plugs out. At minimum take the plugs out and try and turn the PTO by hand. At least then you will have a bit of idea of what you are up against and can negotiate from there.
Just my thoughts.

 

[bell99man]

Like they said, find a way to turn that crank shaft. You have a ski, just pull your battery and go try it out. Hope you get lucky!

Kevin

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Like they said, find a way to turn that crank shaft. You have a ski, just pull your battery and go try it out. Hope you get lucky!

Kevin

agree, bring a battery, thats easy.... before you even bother, take the pto cover off and see if she spins.

then plug the battery in, see if she gives you two beeps...

a no and a no on those two, drop the price down to about $250

if yes and yes on those two.. then see if you can get her to turn over... remember that the price goes up as you find less wrong with it...as a buyer,,, i'd rather pay $150 less and not know if the ebox is any good, than pay $150 more because the owner now knows the ebox is good too...

so much depends on the owner, status, knowledge about the ski and what he/she really really wants to get out of it....

i assume he's at the "i want $800 but i'll take less if you can demonstrate whats wrong with it"
and you should be at "i'll pay $250 but i'll pay more if YOU can demonstrate whats NOT wrong with it"

meet somewhere in between, but IMHO, the pressure is on the seller, not the buyer... and that filthy stinky hull isn't a good start on his end at least from his perspective.

 

[android7777]

All i really know is that the ski worked in 2011, but when they tried to start it last year it would not start. That sounds promising as far as the engine goes, but I would be taking the seller at their word, and I generally try to avoid that.

I have never rebuild an engine for a ski yet. I have read the service manual on how to do it, and actaully took the whole thing apart though. I was going to give it a shot last october, but my ski had a bad bottom and top end. At that point, I found it a better option to send it SES to have it rebuilt. The price for rebuilding it, and getting it rebuild seemed to be really close. Getting it rebuild meant it also came with a two year no fault warranty, so I did it that way.

Should I be concerned with the corrosion and paint flakes chipping that is visable from the pictures? Does corrosion mean that the ski was in salt water at some point?

Thanks for all the great information on testing it out and priceing. I may just try to spin the pto and plug the battery in to see if it beeps. Still thinking about that one though, I really dont want to pay more since the user has already dropped the price a bit. I will be bringing my battery and compression tester along with me to pick it up though. The seller does not seem to have much knowledge about the ski. Seems like more of a rider than a machanic. I will have to feel him out when i get there to pick it up.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Should I be concerned with the corrosion and paint flakes chipping that is visable from the pictures? Does corrosion mean that the ski was in salt water at some point?

not IMO... at least at a quick glance that just looks like it hasn't been washed since it came out of the factory.. its been neglected its entire life, treated like a red headed step child.

and again, 98% of all that filth will clean up in about an hour...but it will take about 3/4 of a gallon of superclean, a cheap pressure washer, small scrub brush and a wet vac.

 

[YouCanDooIt]

I'm thinking that ski could have seen some salt water, to me it looks like all the paint has corroded on the carbs and there is some rust. I can't tell if that is a hose clamp that has rusted or what. At least from my experience I haven't seen a fresh water ski with the carb paint corroded like that, both salt skis Ive had had a lot of corrosion on the carb parts. With that being said, IMO unless the thing is a total corroded bucket, a salt ski is not really that bad of a problem. My GTX was a florida ski and seen its fair share or salt and fresh water, and it's been a great ski. I did replace the engine though.

 

[scrisp]

not IMO... at least at a quick glance that just looks like it hasn't been washed since it came out of the factory.. its been neglected its entire life, treated like a red headed step child.

and again, 98% of all that filth will clean up in about an hour...but it will take about 3/4 of a gallon of superclean, a cheap pressure washer, small scrub brush and a wet vac.

My XP looked like that when i picked it up, and I put a gallon of superclean in the hull, along with a gallon or two of hot water, and drove around for about an hour with it on the trailer. That broke down almost all of the oil and grease that was coating the hull. Then $1 at the car wash and she looked like new.

Paint is flaking off my engine too and I know that it's never been in salt water, so it's normal to have some flaking.

When you try to spin at the PTO, remove the plugs. Mine won't spin by hand if the plugs are in, which made the seller think that there was a motor issue, and I wasn't about to dispute it. I ended up getting it for $400 less than the asking price just because of that.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

My XP looked like that when i picked it up, and I put a gallon of superclean in the hull, along with a gallon or two of hot water, and drove around for about an hour with it on the trailer. That broke down almost all of the oil and grease that was coating the hull. Then $1 at the car wash and she looked like new.

Paint is flaking off my engine too and I know that it's never been in salt water, so it's normal to have some flaking.

When you try to spin at the PTO, remove the plugs. Mine won't spin by hand if the plugs are in, which made the seller think that there was a motor issue, and I wasn't about to dispute it. I ended up getting it for $400 less than the asking price just because of that.

shhhhh. trade secret your giving away there !!! delete that post !!!!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

shhhhh. trade secret your giving away there !!! delete that post !!!!

Spim you quoted it too, so the secret is out

 

[android7777]

Update:

I finaly got a chance to go and further inspect the ski.

The body itself was in good shape, but the hood, fuel selector, and seat were not. I pulled off the pto cover, and tried to spin it. Initially it would not spin. I pulled the plugs, and it spun freely. The seller had a battery halfway charged, and wanted to demonstrate that the engine would turn over. After putting the battery in, he was able to demonstrate it turning over. I made an offer of 500 dollars, and he accepted it.

I got it home, and cleaned up the body. I still have to do the inside of the ski, and I am not looking forward to that. I pulled the plugs, and noticed that it was not getting a spark. I replaced the coil pack, and noticed corrosion around the wires. After replacing the coil pack, it actually started up. Took it to the river for a test, and it would not start at first, but after a couple of tries it did start. I ran up and down the dock area for about 10 minutes. Turned it off, and then tried to start it again. I would not start. It soulded like the starter was barely spinning. The battery I was using is at least three seasons old, and low on acid, so I suspect that is the problem. I will have to iron that out. So all in all, it looks like a good deal. I was not planning on using it this season, but I may have lucked out. Thanks for all your great information.


I have also done a compression check, and it was 130 pto and 130 mag. Does this mean that it will need a top end rebuild soon? Thanks again.

 

[chucked]

That engine requires a good battery to fire up. Sounds like you got a good buy.