Tight Screws On Carb

[enut]

As shown in the pictures, I am taking my carbs apart. I am having a hard time getting the screws off on that side of the carb. The two screws holding on the bracket and the other two screws on that same side. Is there some trick to this?
Also, if carb cleaner ends up removing the paint off of the carb, do I need to repaint it?
Thanks

 

[powerslave]

Place the screwdriver on the screws and hit it with a hammer. You may have to hit while turning the screwdriver. It may take a few blows but it will loosen any rust or loctite on the screw. Don't need to repaint if you don't want it looking pretty.

 

[ialonso]

Heat works well

Is there some trick to this?
(snip)

So...If the whacking with a hammer suggested does not work, a torch will do the trick. Heat will loosen it. They sell a relatively cheap torch (under $15 bucks last I saw) that does the trick.

 

[Dr Honda]

don't put a flame to a carb!!! A) There is probably still fuel, or flammable stuff in it. B) You will melt rubber parts. C) it's cast aluminum, and won't take the heat.

The external screws on a Mikuni are generally #3 Philips... so make sure you are using the right screwdriver. Also... get a hand impact screwdriver. Crusty carbs like those won't come apart without one.


Finally... you don't have to re-paint the carbs if you are in fresh water. If you are in salt... then re-paint, to protect them.

 

[Brew Master]

+1 on the impact screwdriver, they work great

 

[ialonso]

don't put a flame to a carb!!! A) There is probably still fuel, or flammable stuff in it. B) You will melt rubber parts. C) it's cast aluminum, and won't take the heat.

The external screws on a Mikuni are generally #3 Philips... so make sure you are using the right screwdriver. Also... get a hand impact screwdriver. Crusty carbs like those won't come apart without one.


Finally... you don't have to re-paint the carbs if you are in fresh water. If you are in salt... then re-paint, to protect them.

Don't knock the heat if nothing works. a small burst of fire on the screw is what enabled me to crack one open long ago. I agree as I stated that this is an escalation from the impact screwdriver, to be used only if the impact screwdriver does not work.

 

[LouDoo]

This is an old Appalachian Technician trick, Griz taught it to me and it works, dip the end of the screwdriver in rubbing compound, it will usually provide just enough friction for the screwdriver to grab.

Lou

 

[griz400]

thats valve lapping compound, the grit bites both screw and driver

 

[brock1]

Don't knock the heat if nothing works. a small burst of fire on the screw is what enabled me to crack one open long ago. I agree as I stated that this is an escalation from the impact screwdriver, to be used only if the impact screwdriver does not work.

Fuel in carb + a torch flame = BOOM or melting your carb parts...... DO NOT SUGGEST HEAT UNLESS ITS FROM A NON FLAME SOURCE.... there are better ways to get a screw out than to risk catching your carb on fire

 

[LouDoo]

thats valve lapping compound, the grit bites both screw and driver

Well if it ain't the Appalachian Mechanic himself, I didn't have any valve lapping compound so I used rubbing compound.

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

when I didn't have an impact hammer handy, this is what I did, assuming the tip of the screw can be reached.
have one guy hold the carbs and get a pair of needle nose vice grips and turn/apply's counterclockwise pressure on the screw head, while the other guy pops the screw driver with a hammer.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Please avoid a lot of pain by not taking an open flame into an enclosed (or even vented) engine compartment ... worst case results in not needing to worry about the tight screw any more cause there might not be anything left (maybe not much left of your face also).

A soldering iron might work even though it is a bit slow.

I have found that a nice big magnifying glass and a sunny day will concentrate a lot of heat in a very small spot like a screw head. This also will cause a fire if you are not careful and leave the heat applied too long but you will generally see a little smoke to warn you to back off before you get open flame. Of course this is all predicated on having some sunlight ... not trying to rub it in cause I will be bitchin about too much sun/heat shortly.

Rod

 

[enut]

Thanks for the input, I purchased the Husky hand impact tool from Home Depot and once I got the hang of it, it worked great.
Before I took the carbs off, this engine would run good at high speed, but would not idle, it would just stall. Is there anything I should be looking for as I clean and re-assemble the carbs.

The fuel filters look brand new. There was a lot of crud on each end of the carbs when I took the covers off though. The diaphragms look okay to me, I just cleaned the crud off of them. Should they be replaced anyway?
Thanks for all of the input.

 

[Brew Master]

The fuel filters look brand new. There was a lot of crud on each end of the carbs when I took the covers off though. The diaphragms look okay to me, I just cleaned the crud off of them. Should they be replaced anyway?
Thanks for all of the input.

IMO completely rebuild the carbs, chances are they are 14 years old now and are due to be replaced anyways. The kits will run you around $45 per carb but to me you dont want to be penny wise and dollar foolish by re using old parts

 

[enut]

I got everything back together. I then adjusted the idle speed screw in a half turn and now both engines are running the same rpm at idle.
Both motors are running good now.
Thanks for all the help.