I thought this could be added to and posted as a sticky as this gets asked for quite a bit and might just help a new member get a good ski.
When I am going to look at a used ski for sale there is always a check list I use and it has never let me down.
I usually break this down in my head and try to keep it in order.
Things to take with you...
1. Old towel to lay on.
2. Charged battery.
3. Spark plug wrench and socket.
4. Working compression gauge.
5. Cash!! Don't forget this.
I. Before I even look at the ski and usually on my way there I have a few decisions to make.....
1. Is this ski for me and am I going to keep it or flip it?
2. What is the maximum I am willing to pay and what do I want to pay, two different prices.
3. Be prepared to walk away once you reach your maximum price. Walk away at your maximum price!
4. Remember that if it does not feel right it probably isn't and trust your gut.
5. How long has it been sitting?
II. Once I arrive before I even look at the ski..... Stay calm and don't get excited because you will forget things and pay too much.
1. Talk to the owner and get a "feel" for them. Be nice but direct with your questions. If they seem shady they probably are.
2. What is the history of the ski?
3. How long have you had it? Are they just flipping it?
4. Any issues with it?
5. What maintenance has been preformed?
6. What oil did you use? Do they have the bottle?
III. Going over the ski........ I like to start a the back and work my way forward.
1. What condition is the hull in and seat? Is it just cosmetic damage or structural? Buffing is easy fiberglass repair is not.
2. Get out your towel and get under the ski. Check the hull for structural damage. Check the impeller and wear ring, neither should have dings, nicks or damage. A dime should fit between the impeller and wear ring and no more.
3. Pull the seat or hood and take a look at the engine compartment. Is it clean or a mess. Is it just dirty or is there a ton of oil in it?
A) Put your hand on the engine. Is it warm? The owner might have been messing with it to get it running and might be hard to start when cold. Cold is ideal.
B) Remove the PTO cover and check the drive shaft seal for wear, I s the black rubber boot torn? If so it will leak water.
C) Does it have gray fuel lines? if so they will have to be replaced immediately.
D) Pull the spark plugs and ground the wires on the provided terminals.
E) Try to turn the engine over by hand, you did leave the PTO cover off right? It should turn over easily by hand. If not the engine or pump are locked up.
F) Look at the oil lines and tank. There should be no leaks and if the small lines from the oil pump to manifold are painted like the engine they need to be replaced. If the oil is any color other than golden brown or red it is wrong and will have to be completely drained and is not the correct oil and is not good for the engine.
G) Check cables including throttle, choke and steering. They should move smoothly and easily and should not have any binding or frayed cables.
H) If it doesn't have a battery or it is dead install yours. Make sure you attach all positive and ground cables.
I) If it has gauges and automatic trim do not install the lanyard but push the start/stop button a few times fast and all gauges should come on and the fuel gauge should match the fuel level in the tank. The trim should operate smoothly up and down and the trim gauge should match the position. IF you keep pushing the start and stop button it should beep at you.
J) Install your compression gauge, make sure the fuel is off, install the lanyard and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing then repeat with the other cylinder. On 580-787 engines you want 150 psi in each cylinder with them almost exactly the same reading 130 psi is time for a rebuild and anything less or if one is much lower you have a major mechanical problem. On the 951 you are looking for 130 psi each 120 is low and any thing lower or one much lower is a mechanical problem.
K) Reinstall the sparkplugs and cables turn the fuel to on or reserve depending on fuel level (Is it easy to turn might need to be replaced). Reattach lanyard pull choke and see if it fires. IF it doesn't give the starter a little time to cool down and try again. If it fires it will smoke, if it keeps revving up uncontrollably try shutting it off and if it won't pull the choke to kill it. If it runs blip the throttle a few times then shut it off if you keep it running for more than 30 seconds you can overheat the engine and destroy the driveshaft seal.
L) If they will let you water test it great and now is the time but I have never been allowed to do this.
IV. Now is when you get to start nitpicking in your head, sellers hate it if you start listing all the things wrong....
1. Are there broken and damaged parts?
2. Were there things wrong on your inspection? Fuel lines, compression, did it start?
V. Total up everything that it will need to get it where you want it and haw this will effect your budget. Here are some estimated materials costs I don't include labor.
1. Impeller $200
2. Pump wear ring $50.
3. Seat Cover $100.
4. Fuel Lines $25.
5. Carb rebuild kits $100 every used ski needs this unless they have receipts it was just done.
6. Engine Rebuild $1,000.
7. Oil and fuel filters $50
8. Fuel selector $25.
9. Battery $75
VI. The dance.... Everybody has their own method but in general terms politely list the major issues and estimated cost to repair. Don't nit pick every little thing and imply that it is worth nothing.
1. Start at your lowest reasonable offer. Remember you can always come up but not back down.
2. Hold your ground from your highest comfortable price and be willing to walk. There will always be other skis.
VII. IF you are taking your new ski home at this point feel good about yourself, you did everything you could to make a well informed purchase.
1. Get it home an go over it and fix the things that are wrong and service the fuel and oil systems. DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE LAKE! Too many skis have been destroyed by plugged fuel systems from people that got in a rush to get in the water.
2. This is a used ski and is your problem now. Do not expect the seller to do anything at this point sometimes even the best of us that check everything get a bad ski. These things are getting older by the minute and you cant check everything like cranks and pistons. SH@$t happens but you did everything you could.
VIII. Go ride that darn thing you did your homework so go have some fun, that is what this is all about.
When I am going to look at a used ski for sale there is always a check list I use and it has never let me down.
I usually break this down in my head and try to keep it in order.
Things to take with you...
1. Old towel to lay on.
2. Charged battery.
3. Spark plug wrench and socket.
4. Working compression gauge.
5. Cash!! Don't forget this.
I. Before I even look at the ski and usually on my way there I have a few decisions to make.....
1. Is this ski for me and am I going to keep it or flip it?
2. What is the maximum I am willing to pay and what do I want to pay, two different prices.
3. Be prepared to walk away once you reach your maximum price. Walk away at your maximum price!
4. Remember that if it does not feel right it probably isn't and trust your gut.
5. How long has it been sitting?
II. Once I arrive before I even look at the ski..... Stay calm and don't get excited because you will forget things and pay too much.
1. Talk to the owner and get a "feel" for them. Be nice but direct with your questions. If they seem shady they probably are.
2. What is the history of the ski?
3. How long have you had it? Are they just flipping it?
4. Any issues with it?
5. What maintenance has been preformed?
6. What oil did you use? Do they have the bottle?
III. Going over the ski........ I like to start a the back and work my way forward.
1. What condition is the hull in and seat? Is it just cosmetic damage or structural? Buffing is easy fiberglass repair is not.
2. Get out your towel and get under the ski. Check the hull for structural damage. Check the impeller and wear ring, neither should have dings, nicks or damage. A dime should fit between the impeller and wear ring and no more.
3. Pull the seat or hood and take a look at the engine compartment. Is it clean or a mess. Is it just dirty or is there a ton of oil in it?
A) Put your hand on the engine. Is it warm? The owner might have been messing with it to get it running and might be hard to start when cold. Cold is ideal.
B) Remove the PTO cover and check the drive shaft seal for wear, I s the black rubber boot torn? If so it will leak water.
C) Does it have gray fuel lines? if so they will have to be replaced immediately.
D) Pull the spark plugs and ground the wires on the provided terminals.
E) Try to turn the engine over by hand, you did leave the PTO cover off right? It should turn over easily by hand. If not the engine or pump are locked up.
F) Look at the oil lines and tank. There should be no leaks and if the small lines from the oil pump to manifold are painted like the engine they need to be replaced. If the oil is any color other than golden brown or red it is wrong and will have to be completely drained and is not the correct oil and is not good for the engine.
G) Check cables including throttle, choke and steering. They should move smoothly and easily and should not have any binding or frayed cables.
H) If it doesn't have a battery or it is dead install yours. Make sure you attach all positive and ground cables.
I) If it has gauges and automatic trim do not install the lanyard but push the start/stop button a few times fast and all gauges should come on and the fuel gauge should match the fuel level in the tank. The trim should operate smoothly up and down and the trim gauge should match the position. IF you keep pushing the start and stop button it should beep at you.
J) Install your compression gauge, make sure the fuel is off, install the lanyard and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing then repeat with the other cylinder. On 580-787 engines you want 150 psi in each cylinder with them almost exactly the same reading 130 psi is time for a rebuild and anything less or if one is much lower you have a major mechanical problem. On the 951 you are looking for 130 psi each 120 is low and any thing lower or one much lower is a mechanical problem.
K) Reinstall the sparkplugs and cables turn the fuel to on or reserve depending on fuel level (Is it easy to turn might need to be replaced). Reattach lanyard pull choke and see if it fires. IF it doesn't give the starter a little time to cool down and try again. If it fires it will smoke, if it keeps revving up uncontrollably try shutting it off and if it won't pull the choke to kill it. If it runs blip the throttle a few times then shut it off if you keep it running for more than 30 seconds you can overheat the engine and destroy the driveshaft seal.
L) If they will let you water test it great and now is the time but I have never been allowed to do this.
IV. Now is when you get to start nitpicking in your head, sellers hate it if you start listing all the things wrong....
1. Are there broken and damaged parts?
2. Were there things wrong on your inspection? Fuel lines, compression, did it start?
V. Total up everything that it will need to get it where you want it and haw this will effect your budget. Here are some estimated materials costs I don't include labor.
1. Impeller $200
2. Pump wear ring $50.
3. Seat Cover $100.
4. Fuel Lines $25.
5. Carb rebuild kits $100 every used ski needs this unless they have receipts it was just done.
6. Engine Rebuild $1,000.
7. Oil and fuel filters $50
8. Fuel selector $25.
9. Battery $75
VI. The dance.... Everybody has their own method but in general terms politely list the major issues and estimated cost to repair. Don't nit pick every little thing and imply that it is worth nothing.
1. Start at your lowest reasonable offer. Remember you can always come up but not back down.
2. Hold your ground from your highest comfortable price and be willing to walk. There will always be other skis.
VII. IF you are taking your new ski home at this point feel good about yourself, you did everything you could to make a well informed purchase.
1. Get it home an go over it and fix the things that are wrong and service the fuel and oil systems. DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE LAKE! Too many skis have been destroyed by plugged fuel systems from people that got in a rush to get in the water.
2. This is a used ski and is your problem now. Do not expect the seller to do anything at this point sometimes even the best of us that check everything get a bad ski. These things are getting older by the minute and you cant check everything like cranks and pistons. SH@$t happens but you did everything you could.
VIII. Go ride that darn thing you did your homework so go have some fun, that is what this is all about.
