Tachometer and Speedometer Fixed!

[Brightondale]

I've had a non working speedometer for the last 13 years on my 2002 Sportster LT and a non working starboard tachometer for the past 2 years until I came across this thread:

Scroll down a ways to where you see the post from "donnyd"

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?14299-Tachometer-on-98-Sportster-inop

I've reposted the pics from donnyd here

Speedometer: 204470322
Tachometer: 204470321
Both gauges have the same workings.

I wanted to chime in on that thread but it was closed, hence the new post. The fix for both the speedometer and tachometer was to cut open the back between the plastic threads and very back. I used a dremel grinding wheel. This back circuit board is about even with where the last plastic thread on the outside so there's enough of a gap to cut safely.

As shown in the pic, pull the assembly out a bit. Reheat the three (3) largest solder spots on the exposed circuit board, let cool and close it up. Easy-peezy. Apparently these electrical connections will vibrate loose and lose contact with whatever is beneath them. I didn't bother to do anything to seal the cut like donnyd did because the back already had open holes and gaps, ie it wasn't sealed to begin with.

I was shocked to see both gauges working again. Especially the speedo after 13 years. It's just a shame how many of these gauges must have been thrown out or just dealt with as non working like I did. These speedos aren't even usually available from dealers anymore. The tachs run $360ish new. Even used, either of these guages fetch $150ish with faded needles and scratches.

Hopefully more people can learn of this incredibly easy fix and not spend a dime.

 

[utah997]

Thanks for the post. I'm wondering if this would be the same (or similar) on my '98 speedster? Tach is fine but speedo isn't working at all.

 

[Brightondale]

Thanks for the post. I'm wondering if this would be the same (or similar) on my '98 speedster? Tach is fine but speedo isn't working at all.

Not the same exact part as mine. Yours has a different looking back with a different connector style. But I think the procedure would be the same and bet the inside circuit board looks the same. Heck it can't hurt to try since if you break it, it won't make it anymore broken than it is now.

You have the 204470158 speedometer. Do a google image search of that part number and you can see what the back looks like.

http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoojb&a=171&b=9&c=0&d=-ELECTRICAL-ACCESSORIES-#1

 

[G Dane]

Hi All, just joined and just bought my first SeaDoo a week ago and waiting for boating weather. This fix is intriguing since I have a similar problem, although a slight difference. I have all gauges not working (speedo, both tachs and the fuel gauge). I've heard about ground problems, MPEM issues and have also proven no resistance readings from the speedo paddle wheel.
Feed back very welcome as I learn my way through this boat.

 

[northstar1951]

Have you checked your 5A fuse in the fuse block up front?

Fuse MPEM (Multi-Purpose Electronic
Module) supply 5 A
Fuse block supply 20 A
Charging system 15 A
Blower 7.5 A
Bilge pump 3 A
Lighting system 3 A
Gauges 5 A
Additional accessories 10 A

 

[G Dane]

Thank you, yes. I think I have found all of the fuses and ground busses and they all test ok. I do get 12 volts to all of the gauge connectors from the mpem when I push either start button, without the lanyard connected. I am assuming this 'test' voltage should cause each gauge to, momentarily, deflect. Mine does not do this on either tach or the speedo.
i am getting ready to try the solution, above, and cut into the back of each gauge. This is a much more appealing option to the enormous cost of new ones.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I love these fix your gauges threads! My 2001 speedometer wasn't working due to the paddle wheel pickup mounted on the ride plate was defective. Digging into the paddle wheel assembly may not be for everyone but on the 2nd factory part failure I decided without hesitation to repair mine instead of buying another replacement.

See post #37 of this thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...und-Water-in-FP-Diaphgram&p=496729#post496729

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thank you, yes. I think I have found all of the fuses and ground busses and they all test ok. I do get 12 volts to all of the gauge connectors from the mpem when I push either start button, without the lanyard connected. I am assuming this 'test' voltage should cause each gauge to, momentarily, deflect. Mine does not do this on either tach or the speedo.
i am getting ready to try the solution, above, and cut into the back of each gauge. This is a much more appealing option to the enormous cost of new ones.

Also measure the voltage at the ground terminal of the gauge (to engine block), depending on how and where you were using to measure reference voltages.

If you measured 12V directly across the gauge terminals, I would tend to agree the gauge is the most likely culprit. Many times, marine gauges are exposed to moisture trapped internally as well, and the movement inside corrodes slightly, causing the moving parts to freeze up.

They are expensive to replace and often the original face isn't available, especially on older boats with nice gauges. Well worth the effort troubleshooting and repairing them in many cases.

 

[G Dane]

Thank you, yes, I tried my measurement accross the connector terminals at the gauge and then I got out my automotive jumper cables and connected directly to the negative post of the battery.
i start cutting with my demel tool tomorrow.

I did look at, and have removed my paddle wheel and pickup. I don't get any resistance readings, at all, accross it and the shop manual even contradicts itself in how to test it. One page shows a 3 wire connection and testing with a battery, and the wiring diagram only shows 2 wires, which matches mine.
The paddle wheel lobes all have working magnets, but I didn't see anywhere that I could get into the pickup side of the unit.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thank you, yes, I tried my measurement accross the connector terminals at the gauge and then I got out my automotive jumper cables and connected directly to the negative post of the battery.
i start cutting with my demel tool tomorrow.

I did look at, and have removed my paddle wheel and pickup. I don't get any resistance readings, at all, accross it and the shop manual even contradicts itself in how to test it. One page shows a 3 wire connection and testing with a battery, and the wiring diagram only shows 2 wires, which matches mine.
The paddle wheel lobes all have working magnets, but I didn't see anywhere that I could get into the pickup side of the unit.

Yes, seems likely the gauge(s) are not working since they have power and ground.

As far as the speedo pickup goes, you may discover it's working. I don't expect resistance measurements will reveal anything, go for the voltage testing method once/if you get back to looking for a speedo signal. Assuming it;s the same design as mine (2001) and since it's a 2-wire might be, the voltage across the sensor should fluctuate between 6 and 10 volts DC depending on the proximity of the magnet.

Many of the 3-wire speedo sensors had a temperature sensitive resistor in them, the 3rd wire was feedback for the lake water temperature gauge package. There may have been an earlier version that used three wires for speed detection, (+12/signal/ground) I'm not sure of those details.

I bet they all used the same SS41 magnetic proximity detector IC, this IC won't operate if the voltage drops below 5 volts and certainly can't be checked by measuring resistance I wouldn't think.

 

[Andreas Felke]

Hi all , i am just getting into the subjects as my gauges all had lights and worked except for the speedometer which seems to have been opened once already on the seal ring upfront but I will see that I try the solution above as it seems much easier than what had been done before.
My New Problem is though that When i Tested The gauge on The back with My Voltmeter i Must have Shortened something as no more lights do work within the gauges. Does anyone have an idea on what fuse I need to check? Thanks in advance in any case!!

 

[G Dane]

You may have blown a fuse. The fuse locations and numbering varies depending on the model. Mine (98 Speedster) are on the MPEM in the rear and there is a label for each fuse mounted on the module. Otherwise, it doesn't take long to check them all.
You can, fairly easily, find the owners and shop manuals on line, for free. I have found these to be immensely valuable for troubleshooting.

 

[G Dane]

Wasn't as easy for my case

After opening and checking one of my Tachs (be careful how enthusiastic you get when pulling the circuit board. Parts can break ), the soldering method didn't resolve mine.
I have, since, found a grounding problem that I am still chasing. When either engine is running, the ground leads go from no resistance between the battery and the back of the gauge, to 200 ohms. Still checking what's adding resistance when the engines run.

 

[Peter Groeneweg]

Hello all. My first post on this web site. I have a seadoo challenger year 2000. twin engine. Speedo does not work. I only have 2.5V to sensor from gauge. I tested with wires connected to sensor. Also tested right at the back of the sensor to rule out corroded wires. I do have 12v to gauge and ground is good. Does this sound like a gauge problem. Do the wires go directly to the speed sensor or do they go into a computer first?