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Supercharger Slip After 20 Hours

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Str8shaftz

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Hey guys hope this finds you well. Wanted to ask your opinion on my current situation before I get bs-ed by a company lol. So here’s the story, bought the boat 2 years ago. Pulled Engine out and went through every thing that had to get done. It’s not my first seadoo 4-TEC. Engine had 150+ hours on it. Supercharger had no slip, but pulled it and had a local company here in Florida rebuild it for me. Also went through fuel system, everything cleaned or changed, couple gaskets, carbon ring and boot, etc. Boats been running good since everything was done, up until the last two times we went out. Second to last time, i started loosing RPM’s coming back in, I’d see 7600 then drop to 6800 then pick up to 7200 etc. Thought it was the TPS(which was also changed), plugged the Candoo Pro in it and checked the TPS and it was where it should be. Took it out again to test, and couldn’t get over 6200 RPM’s... i was hoping it to be a fuel issue but unfortunately the supercharger is slipping. Very easy to turn with your finger. Called the company that rebuilt it and they said it can’t “just fail, something must’ve caused this”. They told me to pull it and bring it by, so I’ll be seeing what they have to say tomorrow but having payed almost 600$ for rebuild I’d expect more than 20 hours out of a charger. I’m a diesel mechanic for a living so this isn’t something new for me, also owned SeaDoo pwc/boats for the past 10+years. This is why I’m here... the boat has 174 hours now so it didn’t last more than 20 hours. My question is, from your experience is there anything from the engine that can cause a supercharger to fail this quick or was this just a bad rebuild? See attached pics. Also might be in the market for a new charger ;)
Boats a 2009 Challenger 180 SE 255
081E6C8E-1B94-4E08-A877-D7D6429F2DB9.jpegC70A06A7-9B71-4899-807E-6B2F51E4318B.jpeg
 
I can tell by your photo that the washers were stacked the wrong way , the single cupped washer is supposed to be near the gear and it looks like it needs to be flipped over ,and the then the two cupped washers together are supposed to be near the nut. You could probably restack them in the proper order and torque the nut with thread locker and it will be fine. You need the special wrench to grab the shaft to remove/torque the nut, don't use the nut on the impeller side as it is reverse threads. the way they are stacked the clutch would slip alot more than it should. Also the time for a rebuild is 2 years, regardless of hours. Not sure if this is your original problem, but....
 
I guess going by time it is 2 years but the damn original one wasnt even slipping after 150 hours and 9 years I’ll let them know about the order and see what they say, may just have someone else rebuild it that knows the proper order to be safe, don’t want to remove it again in 20 hours.
 
If they so easily screwed that up then it means they didn't have experience and definitely weren't following along with the instructions, the bearings have to be pressed in a certain way also. You only have to care about what you're doing....
 
+1 on the washers. Just learnt how to do this a week ago. Were oem parts used? Always curious how some folks refuse to read or follow instructions. Here is a video and screen grab. The funny thing here is that I recently heard of folks rebuilding these making errors. Mine just came back from a rebuild but I'm stalled as I'm waiting on some other boat parts. So I decided to order the SC tools so I can double check the setting myself this weekend. Tools arrived yesterday.Capture.JPG

 
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Thanks guys for the tips, this place that did it has been in business fixing and building skis a long time so maybe a bad or new technician? Doesn’t look too hard to do but I’d thought I’d leave this one to the experts, guess i was wrong, i don’t have much time on my hands, hence 20 hours in 2 years lol. Who do you guys recommend for a proper rebuild?
 
Just an update guys, the owner of the company did notice the washers being improperly installed as well, looks like it was technicians fault. They will warranty it and rebuilt it again. Hopefully we’ll be back on the water soon. Happy Boating to all.
 
A couple of comments:

1.. The washers do not appear to be in the right positions. (Already noted)
2.. The bearing is installed backwards. The race side of the bearings both should be facing the compressor wheel. This is for 2 reasons. 1 they deflect the heat from the compressor. 2 they allow the best possible oil penetration from the oil sprayer.
3.. Your compressor wheel looks pretty beat up. Something went through there at some point in time. I would replace it.
 
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Hey guys one last question, how can you tell the order of the washers? I been trying to figure it out by looking at pictures and i can’t figure out what the difference is. I just want to know so i can check after i get back the charger. Thanks.
 
Yes that's the correct order, there is also a needle bearing in the gear and you have to make sure all the needles are in and it's clean when installed. Macseadoo had a point about the bearing installation, I could not tell by the photo but the cage side of both bearings must face the compressor wheel. Remember to oil the bearings before you install , replacing the two O rings is also advised.
 
3.. Your compressor wheel looks pretty beat up. Something went through there at some point in time. I would replace it.
Was going to say the same. Given the speed it turns, the out of balance situation could only lead to premature failure.
 
They put a new compressor wheel in it as well. Just had her out, turned a good 7650 and 45 mph. Still need to get her a new impeller and we’ll be right where we should.
 
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