Stuck

[Blackjack]

Hi,
My wife purchased a "great deal" at a yard sale. It's a 93' XP. I found out shortly thereafter the impeller housing is split cracked near the water cooling (high pressure area) of the casing- so unless I'm just revving the engine using the garden hose for cooling in the driveway, we're not going anywhere.

After purchasing a used impeller housing on ebay, I am attempting to remove and replace the old casing....
Is there any trick(s) to getting that hummer off without building the impeller housing puller out of rolled steel as stated in the manual? I removed the four main nuts at its base, and the peripheral trim hardware....but it won't budge.
Are there any pins or keyways in the driveshaft that I'm missing?

Kind of nervous about using the fiberglass hull as a purchase point for the puller.
Maybe this is one instance where I need to trail it to a qualified shop for the assist....but I kind of hate to give up on it this early in the process.
Thanks
John

 

[All Things Custom]

Did you remove the three hoses from inside the hull????

If so then it is the silicon holding it on.

I did a write up on removing the pump i will go look for it and cut and paste rather than typing it all over again....

 

[All Things Custom]

For starters....

1.) remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts honding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as streight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. i cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) now you have your pump and impellor in your grubby hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose pluggs.... This stuff reaks to high heaven...

7.) after cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 sockett with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the wifes freezer.

10.) back from the freezer you have to get the old one out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a sawsall and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be carefull only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) now take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to seperate them.

12.) Clean all the white corosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) now after tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (dont dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesent slide in then you didnt clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. thats why its a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you dont start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

 

[Charles Knapp]

Questions

Hey Mike,

I have a couple of questions about this process. I have the 97 GTI. After getting the ski running on a water hose, I heard a little clattering from the pump area. Someone told me that it was normal but I would like to check things out and at least replace the oil.

1. What should the clearance be between the impeller and the wear ring? Not sure if it has been replaced by the previous owner so I really want to get a look at it.

2. Prior to pulling the pump, do you have to do anything with the drive shaft?

3. What kind of oil do I need to put back in the pump and is there an o-ring that needs to be replaced on the nose cone?

 

[scooper77515]

That clattering is normal, but most of mine went away when I swapped the wear ring. Most likely because everything was freshly lubed and tight.

I had the same problem with removing my jet. Ended up being he hoses...I faught it for about an hour, then took a break (beer) and came back and looked closely, and found those hoses were keeping it from breaking free.

Charles, special lube from the Seadoo dealer for the cone, and you should replace the o-ring. I think clearance should be .030" but i didn't replace my wear ring until .120" and it cavitated like CRAZY!

 

[kustomkarl]

That's good advice Scott from your experience of removing and repairing the wear ring. The exact number of the clearence limit is .040.

 

[Blackjack]

Thanks for the hints. I did all the things you suggested....and it still wouldn't budge....and I was afraid to crank down anymore...so I tucked my tail under and towed her to the shop. The mechanic had to grind off one of the areas of the impeller housing where it had frozen to a bolt. then it came off.

\It was given to me with the drive shaft still attached. That's what I'm working on now, letting it soak in some PB Blaster....

Reading on to the next step...I found that the Sea Doo Impeller remover PN 295 000 001....that little bolt/spline combo costs about $130 bucks at the dealer. WOW.
I found (I hope) an alternate from another vender for about $11.
I was wishing I could just keep the drive shaft in there, clamp that hummer to a vice and twist on the shaft with a pipe wrench...but I know all of you would scold me for that.

I'm still a little confused at how that's all sequenced in there. I've got the parts diagram....
I suppose the drive shaft (splined) is supposed to just slide out of the splined area on the impeller....and the impeller shaft seems to unscrew from (something?).....is that "something" attached to the impeller?
Blackjack