Hey guys I posted before with this problem and am still stuck. This is a 1998 seadoo gtx limited. (friends ski). What he told me was he started having gauge problems like gas gauge stopped working and every now and then he started blowing the inline 15amp fuse coming off the solenoid. Now it is to the point that it blows as soon as you touch the fuse to it. I put a used but good MPEM on it and same problem occurs. It sounds like maybe I have water in my mag maybe? I cleaned the battery terminals and looked for maybe some corroded or burnt wires. every thing seems to be ok as far as what I can see with out taking a lot apart. Any one have an idea? O I might have a MPEM for sale lol if any one needs
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still blowing fuses??? Please help
- Thread starter wetbike
- Start date
- Status
same prob
Yes this is the same problem. I bought a MPEM crossing my fingers. I hooked it up today and it still blows fuses just like before. I tried to put a bigger fuse in the in line coming off the solenoid to see if I could start it and run some test with my multimeter.It Just blew the 15 amp in the MPEM. If it is in that box is there any diagnoses for it?
Yes this is the same problem. I bought a MPEM crossing my fingers. I hooked it up today and it still blows fuses just like before. I tried to put a bigger fuse in the in line coming off the solenoid to see if I could start it and run some test with my multimeter.It Just blew the 15 amp in the MPEM. If it is in that box is there any diagnoses for it?
It is possiable that the mag is putting out to much power to the rectifer that controls the voltage to the battery. The 15 amp fuse is between the rectifier and the battery, at the mpem. here is some more info on teh charging system;
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.
I hope this info helps you understand it.
Karl
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.
I hope this info helps you understand it.
Karl
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