Step by Step Winterizing Process ???

[seadoo101]

New to the forum and have read a lot of threads on how to winterize your sea doo. I wanted to share a winterizing process that I have used on my 98 Sportster 1800 with twin 717 engines. The first year I had my sea doo I bought the shop manual and reviewed the winterizing procedures. I was then talking to a mechanic at the local sea doo dealership and was asking about pinching this hose and pinching that hose and what happens if I pinch the wrong hose.....etc. (I noticed that 50% of the threads ask the same questions).

Anyway, he told me forget all that and do this. I followed what he said and I had no issues this spring so it seemed to work for the cold Northeast PA winter.

I tried to write down what I do and I am curious if anyone sees soemthing wrong. We all know that when we read all the treads on the forum you start questioning if your doing things right or wrong.

1) Add fuel stabilizer to prevent condensation in gas tank
2) Run engine briefly to flush stabilized gas through injectors and carb
3) Disconnect hose that flows water into the cylinder head – one with arrow pointing into cylinder head
4) Place a separate hose hooked up to a funnel onto the cylinder head where you just removed the previous hose
5) Have another person hold the funnel and get ready to pour RV antifreeze into it
6) Put bucket under flushing connector on transom to catch water / antifreeze
7) Start engine (10sec or so), water usually comes out of the flushing connector on transom
8) Have person holding funnel start to pour antifreeze into funnel
9) Antifreeze should start coming out flushing connector on transom
10) Have person continue pouring antifreeze into funnel slowly
11) Once you see this I spray fogging oil into the air intake silencer cover
12) I keep spraying until engine starts to bog a little
13) Keep spraying while it bogs to ensure it gets into cylinder walls and coats everything
14) Then spray good and stall engine completely – does not take much
15) Remove hose with funnel and reinstall hose you first disconnected
16) Repeat for second engine
Special Notes
- Total time 5 minutes / motor
- In spring, engine smokes a lot at initial start up. Lets me know that I coated everything good.
- Don’t use new sparkplugs when fogging or at initial spring start up. Burn everything off first and then put your new plugs in to kick off the year.

For other new users I am not saying this is right or wrong. Looking for comments from some veterans to help validate process.

 

[kustomkarl]

That will work...I also recomemnd you spray the engine and jet pump assy good with wd-40 to protect from corrosion and coat everything till spring...
I have 2 links in my avatar to help do winterizing...along with about 3,000 posts in the forum.

Karl

 

[b15philly]

Thanks seadoo101, I like your write up but you did not mention what hoses to pinch off and when pouring the antifreeze into the head when motor is running do you have the water connected?... other than that I think it is a good steep to steep process:cheers:

 

[seadoo101]

b15philly,
Thanks for looking the process over and making me see that my steps were a little fuzzy. The whole deal with this process is that you don't have to pinch any of the hoses. Once you disconnect the water hose that puts water into the head and connect the hose with funnel attached...you start the motor then pour in the anitfreeze. You don't have any water connected. You pouring the antifreeze in is acting like the water. Once antifreeze comes out the back you know your whole system is flushed with antifreeze. Your only running the motor for <1minute.

kustomkarl,
Thanks for the input, will add spraying the engine and jet pump assy good with wd-40 to my list. Another question for you. The shop manuals method with the motor not running and pinching 3 hoses etc. It states in the end to unpinch one of the hoses so you get some antifreeze into the tuned pipe to help coat that. One thing I am not sure in is if the process I have been doing does this or not. Any thoughts?

 

[greyrider]

I prefer to use Silicone spray. It will protect EVery component from rust. I have a 1993 Thompson Carerra with a 3.0merc lx that looks like new after years of silicone on the engine.
I Would NEVER spray WD40 on my engine to protect it as it is a releasing agent.
Every bolt, nut and mechanical connection would be subject to the penetrating properties of this miraculous fluid. Not to mention the evaporating qualities.

just a thought and not meant to disagree.

silicone will make your engines look like new 10 years from now

and ... combustible - NOT Flammable if you do this

bobby

 

[kustomkarl]

The idea of un pinching the hose is to allow the anti freeze to "burp" and not run back into the engine from the open exhaust, with the engine not running. There is no back pressure from the exhaust open port with the engine not running.

Also the idea of WD-40 is the fact that it WILL protect any rust from forming. Silicone is a very good coating for rubber and painted surfaces. It does nothing for bare metal like Stainless Steel nuts and studs that are un protected. WD-40 also displaces water from wires and connectors that silicone won't do. I use lots of WD-40 and Silicone year round here in Florida as a regular protective spray. I buy it by the case lot, I use it so much. I have been using both of them on water craft for 30 years in winter storage back in up state N.Y. and everyday maintenance, and have never had a problem yet.

Karl

 

[greyrider]

Karl - thanks for reminding me of the water displacement properties of WD40. I always think penetrating oil. I will be using both WD and Silicone this time.

thanks again

bobby

 

[kustomkarl]

The best penetrating spray on the market I have found is PB-Blaster available at Walmarts or Auto Zone. That stuff will loosen corroded and frozen nuts and bolts like nothing else. WD-40 has always been worthless for that for me, unless it is a surface type of frozen thread, that's visual...not penetrating.

Karl

 

[whealy22]

Good Post! Would this method work for me up in upstate NY? we get some cold winters. I was confused on the hose pinching. So if this process works just as good without any hose pinching that would be great!! Please let me know! Thanks guys!

 

[ablackway]

Quick question... Anti-freezing Windshield Washer fluid is about 1/3 the cost of anti-freeze, and I'm guessing it's slightly more eco-friendly since it's made to be shot on your windshield, then fall to the ground... Anyway, I found some that is made for -24 degrees (which is colder than it's ever gotten here before, so I assume I'm good there).
I was wondering if there was a particular reason for antifreeze though, like maybe it's better on the metal parts in the engine than this might be. I haven't used it yet because the weathers been rainy the last few days, but I'm thinking this will work... Any reasons anyone can think of why it wouldn't?
Also, just fire the engine up and pour it down the flush port? Someone else posted something about removing a hose, but doesn't that port need to be flushed out as well? Just curious what's the best idea here...

Thanks
Adam

 

[seadoosnipe]

Total loss cooling system....

Quick question... Anti-freezing Windshield Washer fluid is about 1/3 the cost of anti-freeze, and I'm guessing it's slightly more eco-friendly since it's made to be shot on your windshield, then fall to the ground... Anyway, I found some that is made for -24 degrees (which is colder than it's ever gotten here before, so I assume I'm good there).
I was wondering if there was a particular reason for antifreeze though, like maybe it's better on the metal parts in the engine than this might be. I haven't used it yet because the weathers been rainy the last few days, but I'm thinking this will work... Any reasons anyone can think of why it wouldn't?
Also, just fire the engine up and pour it down the flush port? Someone else posted something about removing a hose, but doesn't that port need to be flushed out as well? Just curious what's the best idea here...

Thanks
Adam

Because our motors are of the total loss cooling system, there is only small puddles (probably less than a tablespoon) left in the engine that might freeze.

I'm on the fence with this winterizing since everyone propbably knows that to freeze an engine and bust a block, the engine must be submerged in liquid. When the water freezes, it expands. If the water is trapped between the cylinder heads in the water jacket, where you only have about 1/2" of clearance, I could see it freezing, expanding and cracking the head. But, at the bottom of each cylinder is a water drain, so even that water drains out when you pull the boat/ski from the water.

To answer your question, yes. If it's a type liquid (with exception to a petroleum product) that remains in liquid form to that temperature you described (-24*F), I don't see why it wouldn't work.

When you finish pouring it in, you'll find out that you only used about 1/4 gallon (if that).

For the post on disconnecting the incoming water line and using a funnel to winterize....there is a couple things that should be known. First, water at the pump is pressurized to move across the head and into the engine. Second, when you state that when you see anitfreeze come out the back, your finished. This needs to be clarified. When you pour the coolant in the inlet water supply from the pump, before it goes into the engine, it will go into the tuned pipe. So, if you see liquid at the exhaust, it doesn't mean the engine is flooded. The only way to know the engine is flooded would be to determine it is at the highest point of the motor, which would be your "tell-tale" line at the top loop of the water inlet to the exhaust manifold and cylinders.

 

[ablackway]

Awesome reply, thank you. If that's the case, would it just be better to use an air hose and blow everything dry from the flush port? Or would that pressurized air going in cause other issues? Either way, I think that helps a lot and clarifies what I was hoping for, thanks seadoosnipe,

Adam

 

[shockerfd]

That's pretty much the method I was looking to do but was going to just pour Eco friendly antifreeze through a funnel down your flush out at the top of the boat. Place a bucket under the rear transom to catch it when it comes out letting you know it's through everything. Basically the same process the original poster mentioned but the only problem I see with this method is maybe not enough pressure to push it through and using a tad more antifeeze than needed? Just a thought.

Before Boaters World closed over here in our area, they had this box kit that basically just did what I described. Your garden hose went to the box of antifreeze and then a hose from the box to the flush out. I haven't seen this kit anywhere else.

Karl, I'm with you on the WD-40. Love the stuff and get crazy with it!

 

[ablackway]

Yeah Bill, I wish Boaters World was still around... Where do you find that Interceptor Oil at? I've checked Pep-Boys, Autozone, and Wal-Mart and nobody seems to have anything. Pep-Boys had one bottle of 2-cycle oil and that was it for choices...
I might try to winterize the boat today if possible. I've got a bunch of homework, class at 5, and other errands to do in between, so it may not get done. There's not enough hours in the day....

Adam

 

[shockerfd]

Yeah Bill, I wish Boaters World was still around... Where do you find that Interceptor Oil at? I've checked Pep-Boys, Autozone, and Wal-Mart and nobody seems to have anything. Pep-Boys had one bottle of 2-cycle oil and that was it for choices...
I might try to winterize the boat today if possible. I've got a bunch of homework, class at 5, and other errands to do in between, so it may not get done. There's not enough hours in the day....

Adam

I'm not sure where to find it but I have a friend who knows a guy who is a rep for Amsoil. I'll see what I can dig up from him.

 

[JohnG10]

Winterizing

When Seadoo101 mentions disconnecting the line in which you pour antifreeze into is he referring to the same hose that you can attach the coupler/garden hose to flush??

 

[kustomkarl]

Yes that's the hose connection. It is closest to the exhaust side of the engine.

Karl

 

[glajos42]

I just did this but I used a "vampire" pump to get the anti freeze into the motor and it worked great. I usually end up working on the boat by myself and having the $8 pump from walmart allowed me to pump the fluid in without having to run the motor. With the pump I was able to watch the fluid flow through the tell tale hose.

I also plan to hook up a trickle charger to the boat and let it run throughout the winter. I store the boat in North Central PA and it with the cold I don't want to worry about removing the battery and don't want a dead one when I get back in the spring.

The last item is I am going to put the trailer up on jack stands just so I don't risk getting flat spots on the tires.

I just hope that the mice don't plan on making any new homes over winter.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

My 2 thoughts -
1.WD40 is not a rust buster, not the best to use to break rusted bolts loose. It is a WATER DISPLACEMENT liquid therefore the name WD40 (mastered on the 40th try by NASA related lab tech.)
I agree with Kustom Karl....*Default

The best penetrating spray on the market I have found is PB-Blaster available at Walmarts or Auto Zone. That stuff will loosen corroded and frozen nuts and bolts like nothing else. WD-40 has always been worthless for that for me, unless it is a surface type of frozen thread, that's visual...not penetrating.*

2. I wouldn't use windshield washer fluid as anti-freeze,it has soap in it. Use the Marine anti-freeze - it's pink in color and won't harm the lakes or your grass if you pre-start your boat at home. In my area that's the only *legal* solution that dealers and mechanics can use.