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Stator replacement
- Thread starter Gary pope
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You can do it in the boat, it sucks. I would pull the engine( like I mentioned before), if you don't want to you'll need a block of wood like a 2x3 to wedge under the front but not restrict access to the cover screws. You'll need to remove the front engine mount from the hull, then the screws on the front cover, oil line etc...... and then pop the cover. Oh, while working around the exhaust.
Lumps
Active Member
I was looking at the manual and the part that I would refer to as the stator on the pump is reference as the "venturi". and they only refer to the fins as "stator fins". anyway, what is the problem that you are actually having with your boat? are you saying your battery is not charging?
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Gary pope
Active Member
The issue I'm having is when I go to full throttle it seems tobig down and you can smell gas real bad. The motor in question I'm assuming is original and has decent compression at 135/140. All carbs have been rebuilt with mikuni kits and adjusted to specs. I took it in to the dealer and they said it sounded to them that the stator might be the cause. Does this sound right? I'm still waiting for them to get back with me.
Have you checked the stator with a meter....a continuity test?
Find the voltage regulator (should be in the grey box), it will have 3 yellow wires and one red. Disconnect all 4 wires, put you meter probes in two of the yellow plugs on the engine side (harness coming from the mag housing)----not the regulator. Your meter (if digital) should read 0.1 to 1.0 ohms across the 2 wires, make sure you have a good connection. Now, remove one of the test probes and touch the remaining 3rd yellow wire, you should get the same results. Now, leave the red probe in one of the yellow wires and touch the black probe to the engine, in a clean paint free area. You meter shouldn't change....you should not read 0.1 or the like, the meter should stay on OL if it's digital like you probes aren't touching anything. Test all 3 wires to ground. If any of them have continuity to ground you either have a shorted stator (metal chips, or a broken wire), or the possibility of one of the wires (in the wiring harness) coming from the mag housing shorting to ground.
Also, you can disconnect the red wire from the regulator in the grey box and see if the rectifier is bad. If it is bad it will throw AC back into the system and will make the engine do crazy things, like go down on power---engine power(bog). This you can test BEFORE you do the above stator test. Only down side is you're not charging the battery but you can still safely test the boat.
You can also check the voltage output to the battery, start the boat, put you meter leads on the battery terminals, rev the engine up. It should not go past 15vdc, or it should not be under 12vdc. If either is a result the rectifier is dead.
Unless you boat is at the dealer and they're running these tests for you there is no need to wait for them to tell you your stator is bad. I'd assume they're guessing if they're not checking what I just told you. These tests are right from the service manual.
Find the voltage regulator (should be in the grey box), it will have 3 yellow wires and one red. Disconnect all 4 wires, put you meter probes in two of the yellow plugs on the engine side (harness coming from the mag housing)----not the regulator. Your meter (if digital) should read 0.1 to 1.0 ohms across the 2 wires, make sure you have a good connection. Now, remove one of the test probes and touch the remaining 3rd yellow wire, you should get the same results. Now, leave the red probe in one of the yellow wires and touch the black probe to the engine, in a clean paint free area. You meter shouldn't change....you should not read 0.1 or the like, the meter should stay on OL if it's digital like you probes aren't touching anything. Test all 3 wires to ground. If any of them have continuity to ground you either have a shorted stator (metal chips, or a broken wire), or the possibility of one of the wires (in the wiring harness) coming from the mag housing shorting to ground.
Also, you can disconnect the red wire from the regulator in the grey box and see if the rectifier is bad. If it is bad it will throw AC back into the system and will make the engine do crazy things, like go down on power---engine power(bog). This you can test BEFORE you do the above stator test. Only down side is you're not charging the battery but you can still safely test the boat.
You can also check the voltage output to the battery, start the boat, put you meter leads on the battery terminals, rev the engine up. It should not go past 15vdc, or it should not be under 12vdc. If either is a result the rectifier is dead.
Unless you boat is at the dealer and they're running these tests for you there is no need to wait for them to tell you your stator is bad. I'd assume they're guessing if they're not checking what I just told you. These tests are right from the service manual.
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