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Starting my ski from a rebuild

justinb

Active Member
Hi All

After a good 6 months of having my seadoo gti 2002 in pieces I have built my motor up everything new . Accept the crank bought a refurbished built up one.

Anyway I took out the oil mix pump , decide to go pre mix , I have installed the block off kit as well.

The carb has been rebuilt too with genuine Mukuni parts did the pop off test and held pressure etc.

I have put 32.1 ratio will 10 litres of fuel with 2 stroke .this is now in the tank.

My question is what do I do next do I need to bleed fuel from line into carb and how ?

Or do I just start the ski with the choke out ?

Need help with the next steps .

I belive I have x all T'S when doing this ski up

Thanks
 
In my experience, pulling the choke should be enough as long as all of the fuel lines including return and pulse lines are run and connected properly to the appropriate nipples and the o-ring in the fuel filter/separator is good and the fuel selector valve is not pulling air. It may take more than one run on the starter. Only crank starter in 6-8 second burst giving starter equal time to cool between burst. If it doesn’t start within 3 or 4 burst you may want to pressure test fuel delivery system.

Also, to quote @mikidymac on another thread, this is a good break in procedure……
“You want to heat cycle it. Run for 15 minutes then cool for 30 minutes and repeat. First 1/2 tank no more than 1/3 throttle vary it the entire time. Next 1/2 than 1/2 throttle. Next 1/2 of second tank 3/4 throttle. Last 1/2 of second tank full throttle but never hold it there”
 
Thanks Mate , yeah I actually read his thread yesterday for fuel ratio and I saw that .

Got to love the help on here !!!
 
Did you keep oil in the rotary valve chamber?
Not sure if I understand , after building the motor , I squirted oil in the bottom casing, put oil in the rotary valve to keep it lubed and then squirted some oil down the heads
 
I just wanted to make sure you are keeping a supply of oil in the rotary valve chamber.
Most people that go premix don't do this and ruin the engine.

There is a chamber in the middle of the engine that has to be supplied with oil, it is the large 12mm fittings on the center of the engine. It is what lubes the crank gears that turn the rotary valve shaft.
 
I just wanted to make sure you are keeping a supply of oil in the rotary valve chamber.
Most people that go premix don't do this and ruin the engine.

There is a chamber in the middle of the engine that has to be supplied with oil, it is the large 12mm fittings on the center of the engine. It is what lubes the crank gears that turn the rotary valve shaft.
Oh I see ,yeah I still have my oil tank and it has 2 stroke in it which feeds the motor and returns , so keeps cycling
 
Hey Justin, you had sent me pm earlier today, I just got home from work and seen it, but it says that the conversation is closed to further replies so I will m unable to reply back to you there
 
Hey Justin, you had sent me pm earlier today, I just got home from work and seen it, but it says that the conversation is closed to further replies so I will m unable to reply back to you there
Hi Burt

Ah don't know what happened will send u another one now
 
I just wanted to make sure you are keeping a supply of oil in the rotary valve chamber.
Most people that go premix don't do this and ruin the engine.

There is a chamber in the middle of the engine that has to be supplied with oil, it is the large 12mm fittings on the center of the engine. It is what lubes the crank gears that turn the rotary valve shaft.
I will be doing the same thing here in a month or so. When doing premix and having the oil gravity fed to the rotary valve shaft, is 2 stroke oil still the best type of oil to use?

Mike
 
Yes, I would still use API-TC oil for the rotary gear but does not have to be synthetic.
 
Guys, I am at the same point with my 1997 GTX 787. Full rebuild by SES. I am near the point of starting the engine and was curious about the very same issues. Thanks for the write up.
 
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