Starter Engages When Battery is Connected 97 GTX

[MexicoJoe]

Hello all. I have spent many nights reading through forum posts diagnosing issues with my 97 GTX over the last two years so I can't thank the forum enough. This week I've come across this unusual problem with my ski that has me completely stumped. Took my ski down to Mexico to go fishing in the Sea of Cortez. Ski ran great per usual for the 3 days we were there. Got home late so the next day is when I cleaned the ski. Went to start the ski before I hooked up the hose to flush it out and nothing. Put my multimeter on the battery and it has 5v. The battery was 1 year and 4 months old so I figured that was great that I got more than a year out of the battery considering I hear that these AGM batteries for skis don't tend to last more than a year. No worries. I bought a new AGM and go to put it in. Hook up positive first as you are supposed to. Now here's the problem. As soon as I touch the ground, huge spark and starter starts cranking away! Mind you, the key wasn't even on the DESS post. I know how to test solenoid so I get out the multimeter and sure enough I have 12v on the second post that leads to the starter. I then go inside and read as many forum threads as I can. If I disconnect the 12v signal wire plug I do NOT have 12v on the starter side of the solenoid. I made sure to remove the solenoid and test for continuity between the two posts and I do NOT have continuity. I was 100% certain that my solenoid is good however, for craps and giggles I bought a new one anyways. The new one has no continuity either so it is good. I put it in today and low and behold SAME ISSUE.

If I press the IGNITION GROUND to the negative post on the battery I can hear the solenoid click. So basically the 12v signal wire or MPEM is CLOSING the circuit at the solenoid. Again, all of this is without the key on the post.

Another thread I came across doing a Google search basically lists the same exact problem. The poster says that it ended up being the MPEM. I have traced all wires from the rear electrical box, red signal wire with yellow tracer to the MPEM. Nothing looks out of the ordinary. Ski is in excellent shape for the year. Opened up the MPEM and it is so clean and new looking you could eat breakfast off of it. I don't see anything corroded or salt or anything. The box has the gasket and is water tight and again no signs of anything. I can't imagine the MPEM got fried. I wouldn't understand how.

Just trying to figure out if it truly is the MPEM before I pony up the dough for a new one.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[JeremyD615]

Unfortunately this one does sound like a bad MPEM. There shouldn’t be power on that signal wire without the key on the DESS post, so you’ve got a short to that wire. Double check the wiring again before you buy anything, but I have a feeling it’s going to be an internal short in the MPEM...

 

[MexicoJoe]

Unfortunately this one does sound like a bad MPEM. There shouldn’t be power on that signal wire without the key on the DESS post, so you’ve got a short to that wire. Double check the wiring again before you buy anything, but I have a feeling it’s going to be an internal short in the MPEM...

That's what I've been thinking too. Is there any chance it could be the switch (start/stop button)? If there is a short, what wire would likely be the culprit? I know the mpem gets its power from one of the red wires in the rear box. That's the fused red wire that's plugged into the rear box correct?

One other note, my battery was good at 13.2v during our trip and for the last year. What could have changed in the 3.5 hour drive home? How could something short if everything was previously good? I have owned the ski 2 years and have never had any electrical issues whatsoever.

I considered the fact that something shorted and ran the starter while the ski was parked without my knowledge and killed the battery... I always store my battery inside my home when the ski is not in use to prolong the battery life but after getting home late and knowing that needed to flush the ski the next day I left it hooked up overnight. I've read that salt water in the rear electrical box can create continuity on the solenoid and jump start the starter... any chance that thing ran for a period of time and melted something?

Jeremy thanks again for the quick response.

 

[JeremyD615]

I honestly think you’re looking at an internal short in the MPEM. I don’t think salt water will carry enough amperage to do what you’re describing...

 

[Ckrawiec]

That's what I've been thinking too. Is there any chance it could be the switch (start/stop button)? If there is a short, what wire would likely be the culprit? I know the mpem gets its power from one of the red wires in the rear box. That's the fused red wire that's plugged into the rear box correct?

One other note, my battery was good at 13.2v during our trip and for the last year. What could have changed in the 3.5 hour drive home? How could something short if everything was previously good? I have owned the ski 2 years and have never had any electrical issues whatsoever.

I considered the fact that something shorted and ran the starter while the ski was parked without my knowledge and killed the battery... I always store my battery inside my home when the ski is not in use to prolong the battery life but after getting home late and knowing that needed to flush the ski the next day I left it hooked up overnight. I've read that salt water in the rear electrical box can create continuity on the solenoid and jump start the starter... any chance that thing ran for a period of time and melted something?

Jeremy thanks again for the quick response.

Well, let's step back and think it through:
1) could it be the S/S button, stuck closed (as it is normally open)....YES. If the switch is making contact and the voltage is there from the battery, then the ski would think you WANT it to start....HOWEVER....it would also need to have the DESS enabled (as the MPEM wouldn't allow the ski to start (technically) without the key installed....SO, I can't see the S/S button as your issue).

2) The starter engages if you connect the battery....First thought is the solenoid is bridged closed internally and is delivering direct battery voltage to the starter...BUT you ruled that out already...and/or the solenoid closed with the battery voltage suddenly presented because the MPEM sent the "close solenoid" signal....but HOW did the MPEM do that without the S/S button or the DESS installed???

3) The MPEM is shorted out internally.....as JeremyD615 has already pointed you there....I believe he has hit the nail on the head...unfortunately for you.......the ski is 22 years old...stuff happens, especially when things get jostled around in water and bouncing around on a trailer.

 

[MexicoJoe]

Well, let's step back and think it through:
1) could it be the S/S button, stuck closed (as it is normally open)....YES. If the switch is making contact and the voltage is there from the battery, then the ski would think you WANT it to start....HOWEVER....it would also need to have the DESS enabled (as the MPEM wouldn't allow the ski to start (technically) without the key installed....SO, I can't see the S/S button as your issue).

2) The starter engages if you connect the battery....First thought is the solenoid is bridged closed internally and is delivering direct battery voltage to the starter...BUT you ruled that out already...and/or the solenoid closed with the battery voltage suddenly presented because the MPEM sent the "close solenoid" signal....but HOW did the MPEM do that without the S/S button or the DESS installed???

3) The MPEM is shorted out internally.....as JeremyD615 has already pointed you there....I believe he has hit the nail on the head...unfortunately for you.......the ski is 22 years old...stuff happens, especially when things get jostled around in water and bouncing around on a trailer.

Thank you CK. You've both been awesome in responding quickly and confirming what I was thinking too. Next question. I see MPEMs online. I understand that they plug n play and I've read that I will NOT have to re-program the key. Do you know if that is accurate? And are there any sources that I should not buy from? I see one on Amazon for $100 and one for $150. I checked Ebay and there's some for as low as $80 but can I trust Ebay product? Some things I don't mind getting from Ebay but kind of nervous about an MPEM from Ebay. Unless they are all the same China aftermarket part regardless if it's SBT, Amazon seller or Ebay seller.

As always, Seadooforum For The Win! and THANKS AGAIN to both of you for helping a young fellow out!

 

[Ckrawiec]

Thank you CK. You've both been awesome in responding quickly and confirming what I was thinking too. Next question. I see MPEMs online. I understand that they plug n play and I've read that I will NOT have to re-program the key. Do you know if that is accurate? And are there any sources that I should not buy from? I see one on Amazon for $100 and one for $150. I checked Ebay and there's some for as low as $80 but can I trust Ebay product? Some things I don't mind getting from Ebay but kind of nervous about an MPEM from Ebay. Unless they are all the same China aftermarket part regardless if it's SBT, Amazon seller or Ebay seller.

As always, Seadooforum For The Win! and THANKS AGAIN to both of you for helping a young fellow out!

I can't offer any personal advise or guidance on an AM MPEM.....my preference would always be a good confirmed OEM mpem from a donor ski if you can find one - Westside Powersports perhaps.

I have read though that some "senior" forum members are getting more comfortable with the AM mpem's but I can't back that up with anything personally speaking.....good luck down the road as I find it a journey worth taking....I prefer my '96 GTX over my 2017 Spark, but the 2018 GTS is pretty good too 9'96 is faster though - hehehehe).

 

[JeremyD615]

Your best option is a good used MPEM from Westside Powersports. They keep them on the shelf and guarantee their products.

The aftermarket MPEM’s are a gamble. There is a very high rate of defective products right out of the box, so if you go that route, be prepared to have to send one back if necessary. Don’t plan your weekend thinking it will be up and running as soon as the part comes in! With that said, I do have one ski with an aftermarket MPEM, and have not had any issues with it... The other consideration is that the aftermarket units are more difficult to install. The wire colors do not exactly match the OEM unit, so you need both the factory wiring diagram and the diagram for the aftermarket part. If you aren’t comfortable reading electrical schematics, definitely go for the used stock part...

 

[MexicoJoe]

Thanks guys.

 

[MexicoJoe]

**Update**

I took the ignition box (rear box) out of the ski. While I'm in here doing all of this I'm going to buy new plug wires and replace those even though I haven't had any spark issues. All wiring in there looks good. 15a fuse for POWER IN from the rectifier is good. I will need to put a new ring terminal on the charge wire that's from that rectifier in fused connection.

**MPEM**

I labeled each connection, disconnected and removed the MPEM. Pretty confident I have a good understanding of the wiring and what each wire goes to from the MPEM by tracing where the looms go to. I flipped the MPEM over and sure enough, it's the original. Factory date, 03/20/1997. Good to know that it had never been changed previously. I guess 22 years was a good run. The inside of my grey box is immaculate so good to know that no water is getting in there. My ski overall is in really good condition and I'm pretty anal so anything that looked dirty a couple of years ago when I bought it got cleaned. I live in Phx, AZ so no issue with moist wet conditions causing rust or moisture inside plugs and what not. Never owned a boat or ski previous to this but I enjoy reading and learning. I've done all my own work to the ski. I bought it 2 years ago NOT running but the engine turned over so I knew it wasn't seized and it had 147 PSI in both cylinders so I took a chance on it. I got a really nice trailer with long tongue and storage box with the ski, all for $1000. The only thing I did to it initially was rebuilt both carbs with new carb kit, re-covered the seat myself with new marine vinyl for $40 and put a Garmin GPS/Fish finder unit flush mount in the glove box. I waxed the ski and it looked almost new. I get a lot of compliments on it for being 22 years old. I also made a custom 52qt marine cooler with 6 rod holders and stainless hardware to attach to the tow loop on the stern. It works really well and does not budge. You can also still use the swim ladder if needed. The ski already had the upgraded fuel lines so no issues with the grey crap. I changed the oil injection lines to clear so I can see oil in them for peace of mind. I did just recently have to TIG weld one of my casting plugs on my pipe that kept corroding. New wear ring recently that I did myself. Of course changed the pump cone oil and seal originally as well. I've replaced the gaskets for the rave valves and cleaned those things. The bellow on the water injection regulator was leaking but it was just the clip that is known to rust so I went in there and took it apart and put it back together using a zip tie as others have suggested. I'm now on my 3rd battery just purchased this week but all in all I have maybe 3 or $400 in this ski not including purchase price obviously. It has run great the two years I've owned it and I bet my girlfriend and I have at least 20 rides on this thing EASY! Maybe 15 or so lake trips and about 8-10 trips down to the Sea of Cortez in Sonora, Mexico, to the town of Puerto Penasco that is extremely popular destination for people from Phoenix, Tucson area. I do a lot of fishing which is mainly why I purchased this ski. We don't ride it hard so it's mostly a point A to B ski which I think is why I've gotten so much usage out of it without too many issues. The hardest thing I had to learn in the beginning was what POP OFF pressure my ski liked. I've noticed anything below 38psi POP OFF and the ski barely or wont run. 38 is my magic number with a 1.5 needle and seat. I believe my jetting is stock as well. I dont remember off the top of my head but I do remember verifying that a long while ago. Ski does 52mph all day!

Anyways, just a little background of my ski and my experience. Thanks again for all the input, you guys rock!

I'll try and post up some pics if I can. I think my photobucket account is full and now they want you to pay for extra space which I'm not going to do so I'll have to figure out how I can post some pics... Tight LINES!!!

Thanks again guys!

- Joe

 

[MexicoJoe]

**Update**

New update. I kicked myself in the balls looking at the wrong MPEMs online. The ones that I stated earlier for those prices were for early model skis and not the 97 GTX.

I guess the correct one for the 97 GTX which looks pretty identical with correct wire colors is $289 on Ebay from BAY AREA POWERSPORTS in Yorktown VA. Any of you guys have any experience with BAY AREA POWERSPORTS? Haven't checked the shop you guys referenced yet but I just saw this and wanted to keep the post updated in case someone else is having the same issue.

Here's the ebay link.
Sea Doo MPEM CDI Ignition Module SP GTX 1997 278001200 278001242 278000981 685867146155 | eBay

 

[JeremyD615]

That looks correct, and is made by Arieltek. I have one of their MPEM’s and have not had issues, BUT, call Westside Powersports before you order anything. You may be able to get into a good OEM one for about the same amount of money, and they are readily available as well...

 

[MexicoJoe]

That looks correct, and is made by Arieltek. I have one of their MPEM’s and have not had issues, BUT, call Westside Powersports before you order anything. You may be able to get into a good OEM one for about the same amount of money, and they are readily available as well...

Called Westside Powersports yesterday and spoke to Nick. He did agree that the MPEM is internally shorted on the starter signal wire. He said it's not common but does happen and when it does the only thing to do is replace the MPEM confirming what we all suspected. He quoted me $450 shipped. I can't fork up that much money for a ski that I bought for $1000. In comparison, my GF works for Nash Powersports here locally in Phoenix which is an authorized Seadoo dealer so she can get me OE parts with a great discount but a new one from the factory is a little over a grand however, with her discount I could have a brand new one from factory for $600. I guess if I was going to pay $450 I might as well go for a brand new one for $600 but neither of those are options at this point. A technician she works with may have one for us so we're waiting to see what he says but if not I will be purchasing this Arieltek for $289. Selling the ski "as is" isn't an option either as this allows me to go fishing.

So I guess I'm out $289 if we can't procure the used one. Not the end of the world if I get another few years of use out of it or it allows me to trade up to something newer in the future.

Thanks again for everyone's help! I will keep the post updated as we go along.


**Side note**

I started thinking about this issue and I guess if I was desperate, in theory, I could run a 40amp relay to hold the starter signal 12v until I flip an added switch that lets the held power flow to the Seadoo relay but that is too much hackery but in theory I think that would work unless something else is shorted on the MPEM... I dont like ghetto rigging stuff but I just think it's fun to critically think about something and provide a solution.

 

[JeremyD615]

I totally get it... Just make sure the seller will let you return it if it doesn’t work, and that you have both wiring diagrams in front of you when you swap it out...

 

[Ckrawiec]

**Update**

I took the ignition box (rear box) out of the ski. While I'm in here doing all of this I'm going to buy new plug wires and replace those even though I haven't had any spark issues. All wiring in there looks good. 15a fuse for POWER IN from the rectifier is good. I will need to put a new ring terminal on the charge wire that's from that rectifier in fused connection.

**MPEM**

I labeled each connection, disconnected and removed the MPEM. Pretty confident I have a good understanding of the wiring and what each wire goes to from the MPEM by tracing where the looms go to. I flipped the MPEM over and sure enough, it's the original. Factory date, 03/20/1997. Good to know that it had never been changed previously. I guess 22 years was a good run. The inside of my grey box is immaculate so good to know that no water is getting in there. My ski overall is in really good condition and I'm pretty anal so anything that looked dirty a couple of years ago when I bought it got cleaned. I live in Phx, AZ so no issue with moist wet conditions causing rust or moisture inside plugs and what not. Never owned a boat or ski previous to this but I enjoy reading and learning. I've done all my own work to the ski. I bought it 2 years ago NOT running but the engine turned over so I knew it wasn't seized and it had 147 PSI in both cylinders so I took a chance on it. I got a really nice trailer with long tongue and storage box with the ski, all for $1000. The only thing I did to it initially was rebuilt both carbs with new carb kit, re-covered the seat myself with new marine vinyl for $40 and put a Garmin GPS/Fish finder unit flush mount in the glove box. I waxed the ski and it looked almost new. I get a lot of compliments on it for being 22 years old. I also made a custom 52qt marine cooler with 6 rod holders and stainless hardware to attach to the tow loop on the stern. It works really well and does not budge. You can also still use the swim ladder if needed. The ski already had the upgraded fuel lines so no issues with the grey crap. I changed the oil injection lines to clear so I can see oil in them for peace of mind. I did just recently have to TIG weld one of my casting plugs on my pipe that kept corroding. New wear ring recently that I did myself. Of course changed the pump cone oil and seal originally as well. I've replaced the gaskets for the rave valves and cleaned those things. The bellow on the water injection regulator was leaking but it was just the clip that is known to rust so I went in there and took it apart and put it back together using a zip tie as others have suggested. I'm now on my 3rd battery just purchased this week but all in all I have maybe 3 or $400 in this ski not including purchase price obviously. It has run great the two years I've owned it and I bet my girlfriend and I have at least 20 rides on this thing EASY! Maybe 15 or so lake trips and about 8-10 trips down to the Sea of Cortez in Sonora, Mexico, to the town of Puerto Penasco that is extremely popular destination for people from Phoenix, Tucson area. I do a lot of fishing which is mainly why I purchased this ski. We don't ride it hard so it's mostly a point A to B ski which I think is why I've gotten so much usage out of it without too many issues. The hardest thing I had to learn in the beginning was what POP OFF pressure my ski liked. I've noticed anything below 38psi POP OFF and the ski barely or wont run. 38 is my magic number with a 1.5 needle and seat. I believe my jetting is stock as well. I dont remember off the top of my head but I do remember verifying that a long while ago. Ski does 52mph all day!

Anyways, just a little background of my ski and my experience. Thanks again for all the input, you guys rock!

I'll try and post up some pics if I can. I think my photobucket account is full and now they want you to pay for extra space which I'm not going to do so I'll have to figure out how I can post some pics... Tight LINES!!!

Thanks again guys!

- Joe

BTW MexicoJoe...first RULE of ski club...we NEVER admit or talk about how much $$$ we have into the ski....we only admit to what we paid for it (but you did say GF....Rule #1 applys almost exclusively to WIFE, so you are OK).....you bought a ski and trailer for a $1000...the trailer is worth half that, so the ski was $500.00 bucks...what a deal

 

[MexicoJoe]

BTW MexicoJoe...first RULE of ski club...we NEVER admit or talk about how much $$$ we have into the ski....we only admit to what we paid for it (but you did say GF....Rule #1 applys almost exclusively to WIFE, so you are OK).....you bought a ski and trailer for a $1000...the trailer is worth half that, so the ski was $500.00 bucks...what a deal

Haha! Point taken! I wasn't aware of the first rule of SKI CLUB! Hopefully that wasn't my alter ego speaking! LOL and the GF is basically my wife. We've been together 6 years so we're basically in a common law relationship at this point. I don't know if either of us believe a ring and paperwork would change anything... To me it's a liability if you get my drift... LOL

This is pry a ridiculous question but I just came across a thread on here where a guy took an x-ray of his 97 GTX MPEM for a blown diode... The diode looks like it's right next to the starter signal wire. In theory, is there any chance my existing MPEM could be fixed by someone that knows computer circuitry? The OP on the thread is a dentist and has enough knowledge to re-solder a diode into his motherboard to fix his 5a fuse blowing situation...

1997 Seadoo GTX MPEM Transient Suppressor Diode (MR 2535 )

 

[JeremyD615]

It’s possible, but melting all of the epoxy away to get to it without tearing anything up isn’t exactly a fun process... It might be worth the attempt if it’s shot anyway though.

 

[MexicoJoe]

**Update**

Decided to research Arieltek before purchasing the MPEM/CDI for the 97 GTX. They manufacture electrical components for aviation and nautical applications. They are based out of Brazil and appear to be the leader in aftermarket circuitry for air and sea application. I was happy they weren't Chinese but now I wonder what you guys think... You think Brazil > China??? After viewing their website and seeing how many products they make for a wide variety of applications and now knowing that they manufacture aeronautical circuitry and components I feel a little more comfortable. I have seen on Instagram how popular Seadoos are in Brazil so hopefully these MPEMS have gone through R&D and have had plenty of time on the market to weed out glitches and make improvements. I also noticed that SBT sells Arieltek MPEMS for $450. It looks like in fact that the only manufacturer of aftermarket MPEMS for the 97 GTX is Arieltek. Which leads me to the next point/question... If these are all Arieltek, why the price gouging from different sellers? Bay Area Powersports sells it for $289 while SBT and WSB locally here in Scottsdale, AZ go for $450??????????

Anyway, ended up purchasing the Arieltek MPEM from Bay Area Powersports through AMAZON for piece of mind. I don't trust Ebay customer service and purchase support as much as AMAZON. Amazon will literally take anything back without question and backs your purchase 100% so I felt a lot more comfortable going that route. Paid $289 with prime 2 day shipping and purchased a 2 year full replacement protection plan for a whopping $3!!!!! Thought it was a typo for a second because for 3 year protection it was $50 extra. I feel pretty confident that the product will work as described and for at least 2 years I am protected against literally anything that makes this stop working. Pry the best deal that I found so we're going to give this a shot and hope for the best. Product arrives Wednesday. Hopefully get everything zipped up and back at the lake this weekend to get that salt water flushed out and test ride the ski with the new MPEM.

The only other thing that I have a concern about is programming the new MPEM ignition timing advance and Rev limiter. It comes with instruction and the programming is done via a button on the MPEM itself so no software needed however, I just hope it's straight forward. Not sure about setting the rev limiter. I will have to see what the max rev limit is from factory. Maybe it mentions that in the FSM????????

Hopefully this thread may help another lost soul out there someday. God bless the old 2 strokes and how relatively easy they are to work on VS. the new DI or 4 stroke machines!

 

[JeremyD615]

I know some of the aftermarket MPEM’s have an adjustable timing curve and rev limiter, but my Arieltek does not. I thought it was the same unit for the GTX and the XP, but maybe I’m mistaken...

 

[MexicoJoe]

I know some of the aftermarket MPEM’s have an adjustable timing curve and rev limiter, but my Arieltek does not. I thought it was the same unit for the GTX and the XP, but maybe I’m mistaken...

I guess I should wait until I actually receive the item but that's what the product description says and picture shows MPEM with button on it... We'll see tomorrow.

 

[MexicoJoe]

**Update**

Houston, we have ignition! Received the Arieltek MPEM from FedEX Wednesday. I'm a little disappointed that Bay Area Powersports ships the $290 MPEM in a soft bubble wrap envelope. Upon opening and inspecting the MPEM I noticed that a little piece of plastic that had been covering this little circuitry ribbon had broken off. It didn't appear to be anything that might affect how the module worked but when you spend $290 it almost seems disrespectful to place that valuable of an item in just a soft envelope. I took pictures and documented everything as soon as I opened the envelope within five minutes of receiving the item just in case I hooked it up and it didn't work.

After reading the instructions on how to program the ignition timing I realized that I would need to fix/replace my non-working beeper/buzzer. The beeper had stopped working a while ago but didn't really care because the beeper really only alerts you to whatever is being displayed on the info center screen so for the last year I had just trained myself to keep an eye on the info center for things like low oil/fuel and overheating. My ski has never overheated so really the only thing I've ever paid attention to is low oil.

The instructions are pretty clear so no trouble there but you will need a working beeper to program the ignition timing and rev limiter adjustment should you want to increase the rev limit. I found a forum thread that suggested a replacement beeper. Floyd Bell is the manufacturer of the OEM Seadoo beeper so I purchased one with next day shipping from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDF113O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm very pleased with the decibel level of the new beeper however, it ended up being a little smaller than the original beeper so I will have to play with how to secure it inside the handlebar housing cover. It fits inside the round beeper holder however there is some play so I will pry try to secure it with a zip tie. Overall not too concerned about that. It's nice to have that BEEP BEEP again when putting the key on the post.

I ended up not replacing the spark plug wires but rather just cleaned up the ignition box re-zipp tied a few things and overall just organized the wiring a little better. I did go with the new solenoid that I had purchased while I was in there. I also soldered a new ring terminal onto the RED/PURPLE - RED charge wire. Everything looks very organized and clean in there now. Placed that back into the ignition box next to battery.

Now for the MPEM. After installing the beeper, I installed the new MPEM. Wiring diagram is provided so all the labeling I put on the connections was redundant and kind of a waste of time. Wiring diagram is as clear as it gets so no troubles there even if you're a complete newb. Got everything hooked up and re-installed the battery. I knew we were in business as soon as I hooked up the ground I got nothing which was a complete relief. Put the key on the post as instructed and got my two beeps. Remove key to proceed with ignition timing adjustment. MPEM comes from the factory for a #8 engine identification number which is located right next to your engine tag on the PTO. The #8 engine identification number corresponds with -4° delayed timing. If your EIN is #8 you do NOT have to adjust the ignition timing. My EIN was a #7. The number 7 EIN corresponds with -3° delay. The instructions are very clear and it gives you a little table to visually see what you're doing as well but it's very simple. With the key off of the post you press and hold the button on the MPEM until you get the first beep, keep holding the button down for a few more seconds until you hear the second beep. Once you hear second beep you let go of the button. Now all you do is hit the start/stop button the number of times that corresponds to your EIN #. In my case this was seven times. Each time you hit the start stop button you will hear a corresponding beep. Once you've completed this task you press the button on the MPEM one more time and you will hear an extended continuous beep from the beeper and this means that programming is complete. I did not adjust the rev limit because the MPEM comes from the factory at 7200rpm which is what they come from Seadoo set at. You would only adjust REV limit if you want to increase the REV limit. I think you can go all the way up to 10,000rpm. I'm assuming you'd only do this if you have performance mods to the engine and you're hitting the rev limit before utilizing all available power.

I then put the key back on post, got my two beeps and fired the ski up. She started and idled fine at 3k as before. My only concern is that with the multi-meter on the battery while running I'm only getting 13.15v, whereas before I was getting 14.1v the whole time I've owned the ski. The charge volts had to slowly climb too which was kind of weird. Initially when I started the ski with it running I was getting like 12.9 and after 10 to 15 seconds it slowly started going up to about 13.15 when I turned the ski off as I did NOT have it hooked up to the hose. Going out to the lake this weekend to test everything out. Curious to see if I will have an battery charging issues. Not sure if it just needed some current to start flowing through rectifier or what. Like I said, previously as soon as the ski would start I would see 14.1 or 14.2v at the battery so this is my only real concern.

Other than that, Arieltek is looking good so far. I will post back if I have any complications after our outing this weekend at the lake. Hopefully anyone with the same issue or any other MPEM issue may get some useful information out of this forum thread. Still trying to work on getting some pictures uploaded but my photobucket is full and now they want $6/month which is complete BS. When I get that figured out I will update with pictures for anyone that likes visual reference as I do. Thanks again for all your help!

- Joe

 

[MexicoJoe]

**Update**

Went out Sunday to test the new Arieltek MPEM. The ski ran good but as soon as the ski gets near WOT at about 6100rpm the ski starts bouncing off the rev limiter. The rev limit is set to 7200 out of the box from Arieltek which is also the stock 97 GTX setting. I never touched the rev limit programming because it should already be at 7200. I'm starting to think that the EIN #7 is actually a #1 on my engine case. That would mean that I'm about 3° delayed too much. I'm assuming that's why I'm not getting everything out of the engine on the first test. I've read a few other threads on programming timing with Candoo software but I kind of want to get some other's opinions before I start advancing the timing. I don't think that raising the rev limit will accomplish what I need. I think this is a timing issue.

To keep this thread central to my original title I thought it may be best to start a new thread. I also didn't think I'd get anymore attention to this thread in regards to my new question based on the title. I have started a new thread in the 2-SMOKE performance section in regards to my new timing question. I will include the hyperlink below.

97 GTX Arieltek Timing Adjustment Suggestion (Matt Braley) or Other PROS

As always thanks for your support.

-Joe

 

[Ckrawiec]

MexicoJoe,

Please keep the updates coming...I am following you through this process...very valuable and interesting information for sure....thanks.

 

[MexicoJoe]

MexicoJoe,

Please keep the updates coming...I am following you through this process...very valuable and interesting information for sure....thanks.

Haven't gotten any responses on my other thread. I may have overextended myself. I started thinking about the ignition timing. I was over complicating this. Regardless of the EIN #, the GTX 787 has fixed timing. The Rotary Valve is fixed at 147°. The Arieltek MPEM allows for timing correction. So naturally I started thinking that if I want this to run as it was I will need to set this at 0° correction. I could advance it up to 3° if I wanted to and maybe make a little more power on top. I don't want to risk detonation so I will try EIN #1 for 0° correction and see how that goes...

Went out there today and opened up the grey box. Re-programmed the timing correction to 0°, EIN #1. I'm about 90% sure my lack of power on top was a result of having my timing correction delayed -3°. Ski started right up and seemed to have all the marbles but as we know everything runs great on the trailer lol. Made sure the rev limit was set at 7200rpm. Not sure that I want to increase the rev limit on a stock motor. Wish someone might be able to confirm if that is safe or not. I can program it to 8k, 9k or 10k. I figure those corrections are only for different intake, exhaust or prop.

Thank goodness that only takes a few minutes to do. Setting back to back records today in Phoenix. 113 yesterday (record) and today, 114 (record). No worries, IT'S A DRY HEAT! haha!

 

[mikidymac]

A stock engine will really not turn more than 7,000 rpm no matter what you do. The rev limiter is only coming into play if you hold it wide open out of the water.