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Start and run for 5seconds UPDATED

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paulc229

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Hello gen 1 240 efi, first start of the season, blew the 3amp fuse next to the relay, didn’t have a 3amp, put in a 7.5amp just to get it to the dock, now will start but won’t run or take throttle. Did I burn out the relay next to the fuse? Took the hose off the lift fuel pump and it’s pumping? So when I unhook the hose going I to the engine it sounds like it should, thump thump, when I hook the hose back up it clicks more than thumps...
 
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As your lift pump builds pressure, its sound will change.

On the side of your vst, near the bottom, is a drain screw. Set a catch can and open that screw. With the key on, you should get a continuous flow of gas (& oil). If it only drips, or none at all, your inlet needle in the vst is stuck. Aluminum needle, brass seat, cause electrolysis corrosion. Removal and disassembly required. Be careful with that bleed screw. It is only brass.

Check fuel pressure at the "tire valve" on top of vst. Should be 36psi, engine on or engine off, key on. Is the vst pump motor running?

Get the proper fuse. You may burn up something very expensive.
 
Thanks Tim, I’ll try that tonight when I get home. Any chance it could be too much water in the fuel from the winter here in Canada?
 
So checked fuel pressure, (with a tire gauge) so not ideal but it’s what I had, key on engine off 30psi, removed the brass drain screw and had a steady stream, replaced, put it back on the hose and it started right up and ran right at 1000rpm(before it would immediately drop to 500 then die). Started 3 times and ran fine, not sure what did it? I hooked my tire gauge up before I turned key on(locking kind) would that be the reason for the low pressure or just the fact that I used a tire gauge? Should I still be worried about being stranded?
 
Tire pressure gauges are not meant for gas. Typically, not very accurate. You need a proper gauge. Test w/ engine OFF and engine ON. Should stay nearly the same 36psi. How long did you let the vst drain? You should drain about a minute with key on.

I like to have about 1200 rpm on the trailer. This gives enough power to run when you get it into the water. What rpm do you get at WOT?

When you stored for the winter, did you have a full tank? If not, the tank will "breathe" as the temperature changes. This brings in moisture. This goes on for how many months? Could be a lot of water, or no water.

My engine runs great, and I ALWAYS worry about getting stranded.
 
Thanks again Tim, let the vat drain until the gas/oil stopped coming out. Winter here is a solid 5 months lol, might syphon out the fuel tank and replace with fresh fuel. Didn’t run at full throttle on the trailer, thought that was a no no. When I’m the water I never really run above 5k, not because it can’t, just a small lake. I’m going to start it a couple times over the next couple days, supposed to cool down again so no rush to get it in the water. I’ll get a fuel pressure gauge and check again. As far as I can remember I’ve always idled around 1k. Other than this engine has always run great, starts really quick, is a factory rebuilt engine, done in 2011.
 
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If you drained the vst with key off, you only drained what was in the vst. What we are trying to test is the float valve inside the vst. Open the drain with key on. It should drain for a long time. 5 minutes. This shows that the float valve is not stuck. If it only drains for a few seconds, the float valve is suspect.

You are correct about wot on the trailer. Destruction. Grenade. $$$, lots. Of course, I was referring to being in the water.

(not cool here- about 90)
 
Started it on the trailer again tonight, and noticed that when I was starting it before I was standing so I could hear better what was going on, so the tach looked like it was 1k(looking from above) but tonight I looked straight on and it is indeed around 1200 idle so I’m going to try and put it in the water tomorrow..wish me luck
 
Were you able to fix the issue? If so, what was it? I have similar symptoms issue therefore some insight might help. Thanks
 
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