I seeking some help before I end up taking it to a professional. I purchased this 97 SPX back in August. It originally ran fine, but then it began to have issues running to rich and flooding. I took the carbs off and rebuilt them, thinking this could be the cause. I rebuilt the carbs, check the top off and reinstalled. Now the ski will start pretty easily, but the idle is high and continues to rise on its own until I shut it off and I noticed oil/water mixture from the exhaust. Did I rebuild the carbs incorrectly? Is the crankcase leaking? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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SPX idle issue and oil from exhaust
- Thread starter BaileyF98
- Start date
I used a brand called Titan Performance. Think I got it through Bay area Motorsports. I did change the carb to manifold gaskets, but just tightened them to what I deemed was tight enough since I couldn't find torque specs. It's definitely possible I just installed everything incorrectly. I watched a craborater rebuild video and did check the recommended pop-off along with setting the hi and lo on the carbs back to what seadoo recommends. Would an air leak explain the oil?
I purchased the genuine mikuni rebuild kit
So if it was a Titan kit it was not Genuine Mikuni and is at least one of your issues.
You also need to get new Genuine Mikuni needles and seats and do not change out the springs.
This is the rebuild guide to follow.... The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
You also need to get new Genuine Mikuni needles and seats and do not change out the springs.
This is the rebuild guide to follow.... The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
The oil is possibly bad crank seals or the oil injectors leaking when it is shut off. If it's crank seals it will need a new or rebuilt crank. If it is the injector pump leaking a different pump may be the fix. I have heard of people installing a shut off on the oil line for when the ski is not in use, but forgetting to turn that back on would be a very bad day.
Update on my Seadoo. I went ahead and rebuild the carbs with the Mikuni kit. I also replaced the spring with a mikuni 80g spring which is OEM for the model I have. I replaced the needle and seat aswell, genuine Mikuni of course. Followed the carb rebuild forum to a T. Got pop off on both carbs at 32psi l, and pressure tested them for 5min at 10psi. Both passed. Had a buddy help me tune the carbs, and everything worked out of water. Took it to my local marine(still way to cold to ride). Started it in the water, and everything worked. No more issues. Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated! Now that it's fixed I was able to replace the seat cover, correct the paint on the plastics and polish and wax the whole seadoo.
Nice work
Grim
Well-Known Member
Some words of advice that I have learned through this forum. and seem to be where most mistakes are made
1. If you are going to use the water hose for flushing engine.....you must do it in this sequence. Run the motor, turn on water, turn off water, and after water has dissipated turn of engine. Try not to do this for too long , some parts are not in water and being cooled during this operation. A min tops is about average, it shouldn't take but half that though.
2. Never jump the battery while installed. The MPEM, brain, is not protected against over amperage from jumping. It can fry the electronics. As you know MPEMs are getting harder to find and more expensive. You can use a low amperage trickle charger if you want.
3. Periodic maintenance is your friend, downlead the maintenance manel, they are free.
4. When possible always use OEM parts, they tend to be more reliable, we know some things just aren't available anymore but a lot of stuff is, even used is better than most of the new junk out there that isn't OEM. Especially electronic parts!
5. If you have to do major maintenance, like a top end or entire rebuild, check back here on the forum to see what suppliers are doing well and have decent parts. They tend to wane in and out with good quality and reliable service. But remember everyone has an opinion!
Good luck and enjoy your Seadoo.
1. If you are going to use the water hose for flushing engine.....you must do it in this sequence. Run the motor, turn on water, turn off water, and after water has dissipated turn of engine. Try not to do this for too long , some parts are not in water and being cooled during this operation. A min tops is about average, it shouldn't take but half that though.
2. Never jump the battery while installed. The MPEM, brain, is not protected against over amperage from jumping. It can fry the electronics. As you know MPEMs are getting harder to find and more expensive. You can use a low amperage trickle charger if you want.
3. Periodic maintenance is your friend, downlead the maintenance manel, they are free.
4. When possible always use OEM parts, they tend to be more reliable, we know some things just aren't available anymore but a lot of stuff is, even used is better than most of the new junk out there that isn't OEM. Especially electronic parts!
5. If you have to do major maintenance, like a top end or entire rebuild, check back here on the forum to see what suppliers are doing well and have decent parts. They tend to wane in and out with good quality and reliable service. But remember everyone has an opinion!
Good luck and enjoy your Seadoo.
