• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Sportster 4tec overheats at idle

Status
Not open for further replies.

mdendel

New Member
I have an 04 sportster 4 tec that runs great at anything above idle but after warm up the over heat alarm goes off if I idle. A mechanic told me to check the j pipe where the hoses come in. Does this sound right? There is no sign of overheating other than alarm
 
Do you get a continuous beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep that doesn't stop and the overheating light on the dash?
 
There are 2 types of overheat alarms in these boats. Engine or Exhaust.

Most likely what you describe is exhaust and exhaust issues are typically caused by lack of water. Have you ever put your machine on the hose?

Your raw water loop runs water through the exhaust manifold, then into the stand pipe (J Pipe) and also right into the top of the exhaust can. If you have picked up debris, in this loop, you can stop or restrict water to the exhaust. Without water, the Temps go high almost immediately.

Running on the hose is actually back feeding that system. Which may help to dislodge anything at the pickup side.

When in the water, your jet pump acts as the pump with a venturi in the pump to push water through that system.

It also could be the engine. The engine uses a closed loop coolant system simular to a car except the radiator is the ride plate. What does the coolant level look like? What color is the coolant. If the coolant level is good and it looks green, the typical culprit there would be the water pump or the thermostat.

If you have a laser thermometer, you can shoot the engine block to check the temps there. Your engine alarm is at 212 Degrees F. Your engine should be running normally around 170/180.

Cheers,
 
There are 2 types of overheat alarms in these boats. Engine or Exhaust.

Most likely what you describe is exhaust and exhaust issues are typically caused by lack of water. Have you ever put your machine on the hose?

Your raw water loop runs water through the exhaust manifold, then into the stand pipe (J Pipe) and also right into the top of the exhaust can. If you have picked up debris, in this loop, you can stop or restrict water to the exhaust. Without water, the Temps go high almost immediately.

Running on the hose is actually back feeding that system. Which may help to dislodge anything at the pickup side.

When in the water, your jet pump acts as the pump with a venturi in the pump to push water through that system.

It also could be the engine. The engine uses a closed loop coolant system simular to a car except the radiator is the ride plate. What does the coolant level look like? What color is the coolant. If the coolant level is good and it looks green, the typical culprit there would be the water pump or the thermostat.

If you have a laser thermometer, you can shoot the engine block to check the temps there. Your engine alarm is at 212 Degrees F. Your engine should be running normally around 170/180.

Cheers,
Thanks for your input. I've run it on the hose, how would I check the j pipe?
 
The arrow is the stand pipe. It extends in to the exhaust can. The easiest test first is to put it on the hose and disconnect the feed hose in the circle and make sure you have full water flow there. Just let it drain into the bilge.

This setup is the reason why you have to start the engine first before running the water. If you did not, there would be no back pressure and the can will fill with water eventually backing up the stand pipe and into the exhaust header, ultimately down an open exhaust valve...

The stand pipe is hollow with the water injected in into the case and having drain holes that feed back in in to the can. The last hose injects a stream of water into the can.

There are 2 Exhaust Temp sensors. One on the exit pipe of the can and one in the water box. If they go above 212, you alarm will sound. If there is not good water flow, it takes very little to throw that alarm.

If you get silt or sand in the system, it can plug the holes and no water.

1600266630850.png
 
The arrow is the stand pipe. It extends in to the exhaust can. The easiest test first is to put it on the hose and disconnect the feed hose in the circle and make sure you have full water flow there. Just let it drain into the bilge.

This setup is the reason why you have to start the engine first before running the water. If you did not, there would be no back pressure and the can will fill with water eventually backing up the stand pipe and into the exhaust header, ultimately down an open exhaust valve...

The stand pipe is hollow with the water injected in into the case and having drain holes that feed back in in to the can. The last hose injects a stream of water into the can.

There are 2 Exhaust Temp sensors. One on the exit pipe of the can and one in the water box. If they go above 212, you alarm will sound. If there is not good water flow, it takes very little to throw that alarm.

If you get silt or sand in the system, it can plug the holes and no water.

View attachment 51639
Thanks, i will try your idea and let you know.
 
Mac, I have a different set up than the picture you sent. The J pipe has three hose fittings, one near the ex manifold on top, one on the bottom, and one nearer to the water box. Which one is like the one you circled in the picture.
 

Attachments

  • 63D9ABB6-A592-4996-98C4-1CB3095E057C.jpeg
    63D9ABB6-A592-4996-98C4-1CB3095E057C.jpeg
    251.4 KB · Views: 19
  • 0C677BAB-435E-44D5-9BD2-2EC5B667A599.jpeg
    0C677BAB-435E-44D5-9BD2-2EC5B667A599.jpeg
    246.1 KB · Views: 19
In your instance, they both should be supplying a solid flow of water.

Water is supplied to the front side of the exhaust manifold through to the back, which then goes into the stand pipe. The other one is teed off the supply and provides water directly.

Also, did you loosen the clamps on the exhaust can? They all look loose and backed off from the picture.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top