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Sportster 4 tech Non SC Mid range surge

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RSRBOB

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Have you ever encountered a 4 tech in a sportster that has a mid range surge? I am estimating we are experiencing about a 300 rpm variance in RPM under steady throttle.
The engine starts easily and idles smoothly. About the time it comes on plane, it starts this surge, or RPM fluctuation, until about 3/4 throttle, then it smooths out and the RPM's no longer fluctuate.
I do not know the history behind this problem. I got the boat after it had sunk sitting on a beach where the engine was under water. I got the engine up and running, but now have this surge. I don't know if it is a pre-existing condition before the sinking or related to the engine being submerged.
I had the boat checked by a sea doo dealer and they did not find any codes to indicate a component as a problem.
In trying various tests today, it was discovered that if the maps was unplugged and the hose for the intake was removed from the air box and partially restricted by hand, there was a specific point where the surge could be overcome and the engine picked up RPM. It was a very subtle difference between overcoming the surge and either having it or choking too much air off. That notwithstanding, this would indicate to me that I am experiencing a lean condition.
The service manual does not go into any detail about if a certain sensor is unplugged, simulating a complete failure of it, whether the system defaults to a pre-determined curve or program that will allow the vessel to return to port.
One time today the check engine light came on. After the engine was shut off and restarted, it never came back on, other than when we unplugged other sensors trying to isolate the problem. The check engine light went out right away when we plugged the various sensors back in. On previous lake tests, I had the surge but never got a check engine light.
I had one person suggest that the intake manifolds were susceptible to air leaks. We started the engine and sprayed contact cleaner on the mating surfaces and did not produce any change in idle RPM. Normally, on an engine that has an air leak, that would kill the engine, or at least audibly alter the idle to indicate the contact cleaner was being ingested.
Also, a running fuel pressure test was performed. The fuel pump instantly created 45 psi of fuel pressure, and never varied the entire RPM range, even though the surge was quite noticeable.

My questions are, 1.) Have you ever heard of or had a 4 tech surge?
2.)What controls or dictates the injector pulse cycle to control rich/lean?

The manual does not go into any detail about how each sensor affects the ECM, and if it isn't throwing a code, the manual is of little help. They generically say that a component could be within resistance specs, but still not be functioning, or it could be the ECM. That is all well and good IF you have known good parts to throw at it for the sake of testing. It is of no value if you are unable to freely swap parts and see what happens.

I am hoping someone has some insight from a previous similar experience so I don't have to spend money needlessly trying components that may not be bad.
Thanks
RSRBOB
 
Hi,

I'm just making a post to get the conversation rolling ... so...

There are a bunch of things that can cause a mid surge. The first thing is fuel, but in a FI engine ... that can be hard to nail down. If it idles, and runs full throttle well... then I would assume it's not fuel pressure... but how did you check it, what part of the system did you check it at, and how do you know it's not fluctuating?

The reason that the manual doesn't go into detail on the sensors, is because most people don't understand the full function of them... and the tech at your local dealer is going to test and replace. He/she doesn't need to know beyond that. Since your boat was sunk... it could be any of them, or their connectors. The TPS (throttle sensor) can give you a surge, but so can the MAP (manifold pressure/vac) Honestly ... the map is probably the biggest player in how the ECM fuels the engine.

A quick overview of how it's thinking would be... engine is running, and you push the throttle open. The TPS is giving the computer a heads-up that it needs to do something. It also gives it an idea of how much extra to squirt as an accelerator pump would do. Then... since the computer knows the throttle was opened ... it then looks for a combo of the RPM and manifold pressure to know where on the fuel/timing map to look, and to judge how much fuel to squirt/pulse. (very rough, but just giving you some info)

Now... the engine temp can play in on this as a multiplier of the fuel. (cold needs more fuel) also, the map sampled the manifold prier to the engine start to know what altitude it's sitting at. ( a second multiplier)

Knowing that... does it surge while the engine is cold? and if it does... will it get worse as it comes up to temp?

Also, with the given info... it would be unlikely that the computer/ECM has gone bad if the engine is running.

Since the engine was under water... it is likely that the MAP (manifold pressure) sensor is bad. it's the only sensor that is actually "open." The rest of the sensors are potted or sealed.

SECOND THOUGHTS ...

If your boat has a knock sensor ... it could be doing something strange, and causing the engine to fluctuate the timing. Just as a test, I would remove it from the engine, roll it up in a towel, and give it a run. (your boat may not have one)

THIRD ...

Could you have a small leak in your drive? It could show up as a mid surge. I guess the real question is... does it cavitate if you mash the throttle from idle?

Last thing...

When the check engine light came on... did you find out what the trouble was? (that would be a big help)

Unfortunately, this is a hard thing to diagnose while sitting the boat. Doing it over the Internet is even harder... but I will try to think of what I can.
 
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4 tec w/ mid range surge

Tony,
Thanks for your response and input.
I checked fuel pressure between the fuel tank and fuel rail. I replaced the stock fuel line with my adapters and fuel pressure gauge.
As far as everything else, I feel like the key factor is the fact that I could eliminate the surge by unplugging the MAPS sensor, disconnecting the hose from the TB to the air box and partially restricting the airflow. With just the right amount of restriction, the engine immediately smoothed out and gained a couple of hundred RPM.
There are no check engine lights now. Any that happened in the past have been corrected and the BUDS shows no stored codes anymore. The first dealer to check it found one for a coil, one for an oil pressure sensor and the #2 injector connector was unplugged (missing retaining clip).
He cleared the codes and I plugged the injector connector back in, and when we watered tested the boat at the 2nd dealer, it never threw another code.
I also agree the MAPS sensor is highly suspect on an engine that has been submerged. My question is, what is the normal pressure it is supposed to report? I got a value on my BUDS report, but since I have nothing to compare it to, it means nothing. BUDS does not bother to tell you if the number is in or out of range. As you eluded to, techs are hell on replacing parts if the BUDS tells them it has failed. Beyond that, they are lost.
I do not suspect the TPS for one reason, and please agree or disagree with my logic. When we were water testing the boat the 2nd time with the BUDS connected, I held the throttle at the point where the engine was surging, but he did not detect any fluctuation in the TPS angle. There is a possibility that the reading is sufficiently electronically damped that it would not display subtle fluctuations, but I would hope it would.
As far as cavatation, it can't be that or restricting the air flow would not have eliminated the problem. The fact that I could in fact correct the problem by fooling the system tells me that the mechanical, ignition and drive systems are functioning properly. I believe it isolated to a fuel delivery problem.
Thanks
Bob
 
I'm surprised it would run with the MAP disconnected. It' must be able to go into a closed loop with just the RPM. (I was unaware of that)

OK... if the BUDS system said the TPS was not fluctuating... then that's OK. I know I've had to deal with a bunch of Yamaha's with bad TPS units. They would have a mid surge, and a stumble off idle... and in a bad case... it would start to load up/run rich at idle.

I would start with the MAP. It's not cheap ($70~ $80)... but it's most likely the issue. That sensor should be the main thing controlling fuel. (with RPM) As air density changes... the computer knows how much O2 there should be at a given altitude/RPM/throttle position. Any deviation of the parameters is interpreted as a change in the pressure density/altitude density.

As far as the output of the sensor... I don't know off the top of my head... but, even if you are getting a good reading sitting on the bench ... you could be getting bad readings as vacuum is put on it.

The MAP really doesn't have an "out of range" to the computer. (unless it goes open) Think about it... rev the engine high, and chop the throttle... and it will have a very high vacuum reading. Mash the throttle from idle... and it will have a very low reading, but in the partial throttle positions... the fuel table has to know the air density to correctly fuel the engine... that's where a sensor that is giving a good output is critical. What I'm saying is... the sensor you have may work, and give some output... but it could be wrong where it's critical. I'll see if I can find some real values for it.

I too think that the mechanical issues are probably not the problems... but I thought I would just throw them out there to think on.

Just as an FYI... here is a fuel table from when I was helping to crack Honda's ECU code. We extended the tables to control boost. Also, the computer doesn't take one block as it's info... it will take 4 to 8 blocks depending what way the engine is going (RPM's, throttle, MAP up or down) and integrate it.



37.jpg
 
Just checked the book on the MAP... there isn't a real test for it since it's an electric regulator, and to test it, you would have to put 5v on pin one... and read the output. (requiring cutting into the wiring)

The only test SeaDoo says to do is check for voltage from the ECM... and the resistance of the wires. (Not really a sensor check)

I would pull it from the engine, and make sure the ports are clear.
 
Great stuff!...

Some great stuff Tony! ... Thanks for the help. Learning something new is always fun. :cheers:
 
I'm not insulting anyones intelligence here, there are some super smart people here on the forum.... but I have to ask. Usually, I start with simple stuff first, then work my way to the more difficult things, you would be surprised how effective this method is. So, here is my first question: You said the engine was submerged. After removing the water from the engine & getting it fired up, did you replace the spark plugs with a brand new set? For some reason, the dpr8ea's that the boat runs "foul" out when introduced to water, and give a very similar running condition that you described. Question 2: Did you completely remove the composite plenum from the engine to ensure that all water was removed? The plenum, in the n/a engines has a flame arrestor built into it, and the plenum itself is "chambered", meaning that there is a lot of room for water to stay trapped in. Check these two things out and get back to us & let us know what you find out. I hope this helps out.
 
no prob... any help is appreciated.

Over the Internet, it's hard to diagnose problems... and I've been way off the mark many times.

When I have my head under the hood... or I can take it out for a run... it's a different story.

Don't be afraid to throw in your 2 cents... that's what makes this a great board. :cheers:
 
Sportster 4 tec Non S/C Mid Range Surge

Thank you for the response and the input.
The answer to both of your questions is yes. The spark plugs were replaced with brand new ones after the water was removed from the engine.
Also, the plenum was removed and all water was removed. We verified that all water was removed by rocking the plenum side to side and front to back after we drained it to ensure there was no more water trapped inside.

My point here, that seems to be getting missed time and time again, is that the problem could be completely eliminated by unplugging the MAPS sensor, removing the hose from the air box to the TB and partially restricting the air flow.

Even if all these other things had not been replaced or checked, the fact that restricting aif flow eliminates the problem, also eliminates the possibility that it is an ignition related issue, cavatation, etc. If it were a problem with ignition, dirty injectors or something else, altering the fuel mixture would not resolve the symptoms. This points directly to the mixture at 4800 RPM being too lean. I suspect either it is getting a false or erroneous signal from a sensor, or the ECM has a problem.

My attempts to diagnose this without the benefit of the BUDS, which seems of little value at this point, is to change something that affects the symptoms. Each sensor was bypassed to see what made it run better. Unplugging the MAPS sensor allowed me to prevent the ECM from automatically correcting the mixture, then I could manually control the mixture by way of restricting aif flow into the TB. This, and only this, eliminated the surge. Not only did it eliminate the surge, the engine instantly gained a couple of hundred RPM when the correct mixture was presented.

I am not a neophyte at diagnosis and problem analysis. I have also invested numerour hours in that process, including two different dealers running it on their BUDS system and finding nothing. Whatever is creating this problem is apparently not going to show up as a fault code. If someone has specific values that I can compare my BUDS results with, I would be interested in seeing that. The tech that I water tested it with the last time did not know if the values being reported were good or not. He was looking for fault codes, and beyond that, could not help.

Thanks,
RSRBOB
 
You may want to test the TPS yourself. Disconnect it and hook up an ohm meter to it. Watch the readings as you slowly open the throttle.

Chester
 
Surging

From what I've read I think your having a mid range RPM lean condition and agree that the MAP is the most likely suspect because ( like previously stated) this sensor can be way out of range and still not generate a lite or a code. Having said that......
When you restrict the air flow at the throttle body you are doing two things.
You are richening the air/fuel mixture AND causing the intake manifold vacuum to go higher. Is it a possibility that the submerging of the engine caused a internal problem with the valves or the piston rings which could cause lower compression? Lower compression would cause low manifold vacuum which would play havoc with the fuel injection. Typically, low manifold vacuum would cause a rich condition( not lean ) but I think it's worth looking into. I doubt that you have internal engine problems but it is a possibility and you may want to check compression so if nothing else you know it is not a issue.
GOOD LUCK, DAWG
 
is this a single or twin engine boat?
did anyone try to start engine while water in motor?
how submerged was the engine?
need to know
mud
 
Mr Mud.
The Sportster 4 tec is a single engine, 4 stroke, 3 cylinder boat. I am helping someone else out so their description to me was the engine was submerged. Since I had to remove the intake plenum to get water out of it, I feel comfortable saying for the sake of discussion it was completely under water.
Thanks,
Bob
 
what im getting at is , did soemone try to start the engine while flooded?
i have seen about 3 skis that were flooded and they were cranked
this will bend a connecting rod, engine will still run, but all had minor running isssues, this will lead to oil consumption and engine failure
just something to think about
as for single or twin, i dont carry seadoo boats at my shop,only skis
didnt know if it was a twin, this would make diag easier, due to two of everthing for testing purposes
gonna have to monitor sensor readings to see if they spike or drop off while thru there operation range
use last minute and or run time history in budds system to see if a sensor shows a crazy reading thru that specific rpm range were surge is
just a thought
mud
 
SD Jet Boat w. surge

Mr. Mud,
I do not know what they tried to do prior to me getting it.

I did do a compression test on the engine and all 3 cyls. have the same compression. In the past when I have encountered engines with bent rods, the offending cylinder showed low compression. This stands to reason because the piston is not travelling up as far as it should.

I do appreciate your input and consideration.

Thanks
RSRBOB
 
oke doke, didnt see in your post of a compression check
you are correct that compression would be down
got one in shop now, bent rod, 10 psi down on that cylinder
good luck with the diag
me thinks this might be a tricky one
mud
 
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