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Speedster1996 summer fun and new problems

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Speedstermike

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Morning everybody ! Im learning and having a blast with my new boat. I had it in the long beach harbor yesterday when i played in huge boat wakes. And jumped it a couple times to a hight that i didnt not want to. Ive been chasing a ghost with my right engine. Its been bogging down with 1/3rd and WOT throttle. I checked the fuel filter and fixed a twisted o ring that was seeping air. And that helped but now it still lurches and acts as if its maybe getting a rich mixture. Ive taken it to a repair shop and they have been helpful but im worried they will start ripping me off.

400 bucks to go through each engine . Replace some hoses etc. They said they adjusted the idle on right engine. Then 500 bucks on rebuilding jets and cleaning up impellers.

Any ideas or suggested comments to repair shop about right engine ?

Also.

My repair guy said never use additives they will ruin the hoseing. True or false.

Is it easy to tune the carbs. ? Ive never done it. Is that something i can learn or need a good teacher first . Should i do it on the water so i can test as i go ?

How can you check fuel lines for leaks or seepage.

When running on hose how long is good to really clean salt out with salt away.

Storing a boat in socal. Shud i run a funnel into engine hose port with some sort of metal saver to replace water in there ?

If i remember more questions ill powt them.
 
THe only additive I recommend is Marine Sta-Bil. It will keep alcohol fuels stable... and help pass water. NOTHING ELSE.

I live in SoCal for the first 26 years of my life... and I never really "Winterized" my toys. If it's going to sit for a couple months... I would fog the engines, and that's about it. (Spray fogging oil in

That's a hard question. I don't need much time with saltaway... but the seadoo carbon seals (driveshafts) don't like to be run dry. If you are going to run it for flushing... get a hand held spray bottle and keep them wet.

There's really no good way to check, other than to give the hoses a twist by the clamp. If it moves... it could be sucking air. But what you are describing is going lean (not rich) and I would have the carbs off again, and check them out. As far as "Tuning"... if the carbs are working proper... they will run perfectly at the OEM specs. I rebuilt 100's of seadoo carbs, and never had an issue with "Tuning" once bolted back on. The only thin that needs done after a rebuild, is setting the idle. (That has to be done in the water)

Hope that helps.
 
Got it. So maybe even split the hose and have one into the flush system and another spraying into the bottom intake grate hole.
 
You will need to spray the water up the driveshaft hole towards the engine to keep the carbon seal wet
 
Also. When i landed a hard jump. My right engine cutt out completley. I was nearly out of gas but still worth mentioning. It cutt out a couple more times but again very low on fuel. Is that normal ?
 
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Also the one of these bolts in the pic seems to have a very very slow leak coming out around it. Should i take it out and put some sort of sealer on it and back in ?
 
You can't seal the bolt. I would remove the exhaust, change the gasket ( possibly adding some gasket sealer designed for heat) and rrebuild it.

Andy
 
You can't seal the bolt. I would remove the exhaust, change the gasket ( possibly adding some gasket sealer designed for heat) and rebuild it.

Andy

I have replaced that gasket more than once. It's 4 bolts and 1 nut, hoses off, and out comes exhaust. you may not have to remove it from the engine bay just turn it right to expose the exhaust manifold, then replace gasket. There are black "asbestos" looking gaskets, those have never failed me. There is an orange kind that failed on me once.

(I boat in brackish water and mine have leaked due to the exhaust rusting off at the round solder points, and I also have removed and replaced for Stater replacement. A few times too many :) )

If you are handy with tools, save that next grand for the mechanic and buy all the tools and spare parts you will need for a while. If you are not handy, I would recommend you consider why and evaluate a change to become handy with tools. It will save you big money and allow you to enjoy your boat without waiting for the mechanic. A small thing you might fix in a day if you have the spares, in a week if you need to wait for parts. Mechanic might have to wait a month in the summer.

Good Luck!
 
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Also. When i landed a hard jump. My right engine cutt out completley. I was nearly out of gas but still worth mentioning. It cutt out a couple more times but again very low on fuel. Is that normal ?
Thia happened also
Also. When i landed a hard jump. My right engine cutt out completley. I was nearly out of gas but still worth mentioning. It cutt out a couple more times but again very low on fuel. Is that normal ?
 
Get new bolts and lock washers !!! Get a new OEM gasket !

Take it apart, and make sure there isn't any big gouges in the mating surfaces, or a crack in the parts.

Normally I put the gasket on dry... but a coat of "Spray Copper" is OK. ONLY TORQUE TO SPEC !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


OK... here's the deal...

With the exhaust... if you have issues with a leak, or bolts coming loose, there could be few problems:

1) If you over torque the bolts... you will crush the gasket. Also, you will pull out any "Spring" in the bolt. So, when it gets hot... it will expand, and in turn REALY crush the gasket, and stretch the bolts. Then... when it cools, it will all become loose, and on the next start up, the bolts start to vibrate out, and the gasket will leak.

2) Once you've stretched the bolts... they will "Work Harden" and will no longer have any spring to them. (for normal expansion) So... even if you clean things, put in a new gasket, and properly torque... you will still end up with a leak, and loose bolts.


This is a very common scenario with watercraft. (and other engines) The mechanic (or owner) will simply swap the gasket, and then over torque the bolt hopping it will hold the next time. In reality... it won't, until new bolts are installed.

Oh... FYI... don't put any thread locker on the bolts. They are normally hard to get out anyway. I only assemble exhaust parts using anti-seize.
 
Got it i can do that. [quote name=&quot;Speedstermike&quot; post=542585]Also. When i landed a hard jump. My right engine cutt out completley. I was nearly out of gas but still worth mentioning. It cutt out a couple more times but again very low on fuel. Is that normal ?[/QUOTE]<br />
 
Im thinking of checking the oil lines and fuel lines for more leaks. Checking the bleed screw to see if right engine is getting oil flow. Then Taking apart the right carb enough to adjust the pto low speed screw to richen up the mixture. Ive never done this stuff before but hey only way to learn right ? . Also of yall could help me with my engine cutting out question that would be reassuring.
 
So i got the carbs to act. Semi normal. I did something that seems a bit random to me but is interesting. When the right engine was bogging i popped the choke ( very quickly pulled it and let it go. ) . And boom !!! Full power. what do you think of this ?

Also couple questions. Is it normal for these old doos to bog a bit at mid throttle ? It likes low throttle and 75 percent. But not 60 ish... that tends to make it bog.
 
That is a lean condition that is fixed with the choke and will kill your 2 stroke. You need to do full carb rebuilds with ONLY Oem mikuni kits
 
So i got the carbs to act. Semi normal. I did something that seems a bit random to me but is interesting. When the right engine was bogging i popped the choke ( very quickly pulled it and let it go. ) . And boom !!! Full power. what do you think of this ?

Also couple questions. Is it normal for these old doos to bog a bit at mid throttle ? It likes low throttle and 75 percent. But not 60 ish... that tends to make it bog.


OK...


STOP RUNNING THE BOAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As above, the engine is going lean, and you WILL burn up that engine if you keep trying to run it. Since the choke found you power... it's not a leak in the fuel system... it's a plugged up carb.

So, take them off, and do a proper cleaning... and verify everything. Also... make sure all the internal parts are OEM. The aftermarket parts suck, and cause issues.


And finally... NO... these engines won't bog in the mid throttle.
 
Really appreciated guys. Its already in the shop getting both carbs done plus the fuel cutt off switch and oil inlet etc. Seemed like a nice guy said all his repairs/work have a year warrenty.
 
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