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Speedster 200 back hatch stud

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MrMoonPie

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The back hatch stud on my speedster 200 has broken off, just sitting over the winter. I looked at the parts diagram and it looked like it was a large threaded part that screwed into the hatch. The problem is that mine does not have a threaded end, instead looks like it was just glued on. Should I just re attach it with some adhesive?

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You'll probably be fine just cleaning the 2 surfaces and using either 5200 or G-Flex epoxy. Just make sure you let it fully cure before you disturb it.
 
Were you able to find a fix for this? My hatch for the engine compartment broke yesterday. The stud has a female hex shape mold that fits over the bolt head but it pulls out every time I close the hatch. I put a jb weld style epoxy on it, let it sit for 12 hours and it only lasted about 5 minutes before it pulled out and separated again. Am I missing something?
 
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Did anyone ever figure out how to fix this? We have a 2009 Speedster 200 and same thing happened. Went to close the platform over the engines and would not stay down. Ours also looks exactly like the pictures above and comparing to the current diagrams of this boat does not match up with what the actual part is!! My husband is about to try marine grade JB Weld but if there is a better option I would like to find out!
 
I did fix it. I am sorry robert! I did not see you posted here! I took the same approach and used a proper adhesive and it broke trailering the boat about 500 feet. So I removed the rubber from around the stud, so I had just the metal piece. Then bought a longer bolt, and welded the stud straight to that. I am a bit worried that the rubber was there to spot vibrations, but the parts diagram looks like the stud is attached directly to threads as well. Hope that helps! I can get some pictures if anyone needs.
 
My first approach was the quicksteel version of JB weld which lasted to the first stoplight on the road when a driver flagged me down that my hatch flew open. I then tried the gorilla glue 2 part epoxy as the bottle said it had a bond strength of 3300 psi. I thought I was in business then. After letting it cure, I closed the hatch and jerked upwards on it a few times and the stud became detached again, separating from the rubber piece. I then went to the extreme and used the gorilla glue epoxy to attach the stud again to the rubber piece but then I used fiberglass matting and put a few layers around where the rubber meets the metal sort of cocooning the whole thing. I've been out twice so far since the fix and it hasn't separated. MrMoonPie referenced removing the rubber piece but on my boat the rubber piece served as a pivot as the stud doesn't line up directly with the hole on the latching mechanism. The rubber piece allowed the stud to move slightly to the left where it then went into the hole/latch. I did a ton of research trying to find a dedicated fix for this and there isn't a whole lot online. Interesting that there are several of these parts that seem to be braking at the same time. Let me know if you need pictures. Good luck. And if you need a quick temporary fix just to get out on the water, which is when mine first broke, just tie a rope or strap around the cleats on the sides and over the engine hatch.
 
OK thanks so much for the replies today. Husband figured the next approach was to remove the rubber piece and rig it up as MrMoonPie suggested. A neighbor has a welder so he can help us out there. We're going to try the marine grade JB Weld first and let it set up for several days. Really hoping to at least be able to use this boat and the lake this year. We've either had way too little or way too much rain the last three years, right now way too much rain. The one clear day we had was the day this thing broke! Again, thanks for the responses.
 
I know the feeling, I have been spending the last three weeks trying to remove my jet pump, which is corroded in place, and I have had no luck getting it off.
 
the bolts?


I think the actual pump is corroded to the plate in the hull. It has withstood a lot of penetrating oil and brute force. Any help would be appreciated, the previous owner kept the boat docked in salt water for the summer :/
 
I think the actual pump is corroded to the plate in the hull. It has withstood a lot of penetrating oil and brute force. Any help would be appreciated, the previous owner kept the boat docked in salt water for the summer :/

50/50 ATF and acetone. That's the best for stuck parts.
 
Now I just want to confirm, it is only the four bolts that hold the pump on. There is no silicon on them right? They use a neoprene seal now right?

yeah four bolts, tap the pump a bit with a rubber mallet.
we do hear a lot about silicone being used instead of the neoprene. also bolts that havent coated in anti seize or grease, which then corrode and seize.
 
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