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Special start up needs after 3 years of not running?
- Thread starter pgaribay
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New gas, new oil and filter, check over the hoses and wires, new battery.
Thanks Coastiejoe! Wasn't sure if I should spray oil into the cylinders as well. With this being a 2 cycle engine, is there oil that needs to be replaced other that the Main Oil Reservoir? Is there anything that I should do with the oil injection system? The owners manual suggests that the oil and gas filter replaced by anauthorized dealer annually. Do you know if they require special tools to replace?
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
You have a Mercury and few people here REALLY know them. Dr. Honda knows hem VERY well and has helped out MANY members here. But he recently took a major change in his life professionally speaking and can not spend the time here that he use to do.
That said, the Merc engine is NOTHING like the 2-stroke Seadoo engine. They have weird lifts pumps and all kind of specific to Merc engines only type of items. I am sure it can't hurt to spray oil into the cylinders as it will help lube as well as help seal better for combustion.
That said, the Merc engine is NOTHING like the 2-stroke Seadoo engine. They have weird lifts pumps and all kind of specific to Merc engines only type of items. I am sure it can't hurt to spray oil into the cylinders as it will help lube as well as help seal better for combustion.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I would probably suck out and replace both the gasoline and engine oil, also I would squirt 2-stroke oil into the intakes and cylinders to avoid a dry start of the bearings and rings then while plugs are out rotate by hand and feel for any tight spots from corroded bearings or possibly cylinder sleeves. Hopefully it's smooth and doesn't bind or make scraping sounds.
Then after a quick 30 second fire I would stop it for checking and recording the compression in all cylinders, you can also do this before/after firing it off.
After firing, install fresh plugs. Clean and dry the old ones with carb cleaner before firing. Often a gob of stale goop lying in the crankcase will get splatted on a plug and polymerize onto the insulator, best to have new ones after that contamination bakes on. IMO.
Then after a quick 30 second fire I would stop it for checking and recording the compression in all cylinders, you can also do this before/after firing it off.
After firing, install fresh plugs. Clean and dry the old ones with carb cleaner before firing. Often a gob of stale goop lying in the crankcase will get splatted on a plug and polymerize onto the insulator, best to have new ones after that contamination bakes on. IMO.
Sportster,
Thanks for the advice. Couple of questions.. Tired to siphon the gas out via the fill tube, but something is stopping the hose from reaching the tank. Any ideas on how to get the old gas out?
2ndly, I am an amateur - how would you check the compression in the cylinders?
Thanks for the advice. Couple of questions.. Tired to siphon the gas out via the fill tube, but something is stopping the hose from reaching the tank. Any ideas on how to get the old gas out?
2ndly, I am an amateur - how would you check the compression in the cylinders?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think for emptying the fuel tank you can remove the fuel line from the connection at the fuel pump assembly on the engine or the tank outlet itself and extend that using some fuel hose over the gunwale to siphon the stale fuel out into a gas can on the ground? If the tank has a reserve shutoff valve place the valve in the "reserve" position and also position the boat so fuel runs toward the location of the fuel tank pickup (usually lift the bow a bit).
That is, I'm pretty sure it's a standard fuel pickup in the tank, electric fuel pump is installed on the motor in your case. If there's an electric fuel pump in the tank usually you can power it with jumper wires to pump the fuel out.
Of course I prefer using an electric fuel pump with a filter b/c that moves the fuel faster than siphoning, a cheap filter keeps e-pump from getting fouled. Also watch and don't let your gas can overfill onto the ground.
If it's badly skunky fuel that can't be burned in the lawnmower, maybe the local auto salvage yard will let you put it in their hazmat tank?
Concerning the cylinder compression check, you can skip that test if you want but I feel it's an important diagnostic to get a quick idea of engine condition and monitor condition over time, as the engine wears the compression tends to drop off so it's like keeping track of fuel mileage performance.
Anyway, if you're interested in purchasing a cylinder compression gauge, your local Harbor Freight tool store has the gauge with hose that screws into the spark plug hole and quick-connect fitting to attach the gauge, as well as most every autoparts store, you want the type that has a hose to connect the gauge.
The gauges come complete with instructions, so follow those basically. Remove all spark plugs before beginning, set the throttle to full open and preferably disable the ignition system by grounding all the plug wires with jumper wires to avoid damaging the ignition coils or making sparks that can ignite fuel vapors. Crank the engine just as if you were going to start it, using the electric starter, for a few seconds until the gauge needle stops rising. Record each cylinder as you go, they should all be within about 10% of each other or preferably closer within 5psi or so would be great. Record the results, I usually write the pressure on the cylinder head next to the plug using a permanent marker (difficult on black paint though, LOL).
I think to crank your engine with full throttle you must use the bypass mode of the throttle controller, pull out or push the button, this leaves the reverse gate of the jet pump in the neutral position while allowing you to apply throttle. Otherwise, the safety interlocks will prevent you from cranking the engine.
The reason for positioning the throttle to full open is to move the intake butterfly valves to a position that allows air into the cylinders while cranking, and full open will tell the engine computer to shut off the fuel injectors (WOT while cranking = fuel-flooded clearing mode, this disables fuel injectors).
That is, I'm pretty sure it's a standard fuel pickup in the tank, electric fuel pump is installed on the motor in your case. If there's an electric fuel pump in the tank usually you can power it with jumper wires to pump the fuel out.
Of course I prefer using an electric fuel pump with a filter b/c that moves the fuel faster than siphoning, a cheap filter keeps e-pump from getting fouled. Also watch and don't let your gas can overfill onto the ground.
If it's badly skunky fuel that can't be burned in the lawnmower, maybe the local auto salvage yard will let you put it in their hazmat tank?
Concerning the cylinder compression check, you can skip that test if you want but I feel it's an important diagnostic to get a quick idea of engine condition and monitor condition over time, as the engine wears the compression tends to drop off so it's like keeping track of fuel mileage performance.
Anyway, if you're interested in purchasing a cylinder compression gauge, your local Harbor Freight tool store has the gauge with hose that screws into the spark plug hole and quick-connect fitting to attach the gauge, as well as most every autoparts store, you want the type that has a hose to connect the gauge.
The gauges come complete with instructions, so follow those basically. Remove all spark plugs before beginning, set the throttle to full open and preferably disable the ignition system by grounding all the plug wires with jumper wires to avoid damaging the ignition coils or making sparks that can ignite fuel vapors. Crank the engine just as if you were going to start it, using the electric starter, for a few seconds until the gauge needle stops rising. Record each cylinder as you go, they should all be within about 10% of each other or preferably closer within 5psi or so would be great. Record the results, I usually write the pressure on the cylinder head next to the plug using a permanent marker (difficult on black paint though, LOL).
I think to crank your engine with full throttle you must use the bypass mode of the throttle controller, pull out or push the button, this leaves the reverse gate of the jet pump in the neutral position while allowing you to apply throttle. Otherwise, the safety interlocks will prevent you from cranking the engine.
The reason for positioning the throttle to full open is to move the intake butterfly valves to a position that allows air into the cylinders while cranking, and full open will tell the engine computer to shut off the fuel injectors (WOT while cranking = fuel-flooded clearing mode, this disables fuel injectors).
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biffdotorg
Active Member
First step is to kick your own butt for not utilizing that boat for 3 years. But we see you are changing your ways. (smile)
The question I had, is there any reason to remove the oil? If it's just sitting in the reservoirs, it is probably just fine. The oil below in the pump/stator I can understand. But I think the engine oil is probably fine too. If you can get it out, it's cheap to replace with fresh. That being said, I'm not sure if oil on the shelf or in the tank on the boat really loses any viscosity, or "freshness"
Good luck, get that bad boy back on the water!
The question I had, is there any reason to remove the oil? If it's just sitting in the reservoirs, it is probably just fine. The oil below in the pump/stator I can understand. But I think the engine oil is probably fine too. If you can get it out, it's cheap to replace with fresh. That being said, I'm not sure if oil on the shelf or in the tank on the boat really loses any viscosity, or "freshness"
Good luck, get that bad boy back on the water!
biffdotorg
Active Member
Just bought two gallons at Fleet Farm today (you reminded me of what I needed for the summer) $28/Gallon for Quicksilver Premium Plus. Yup, that's not as cheap as gas for sure, it's all relative. I guess in relation to if it could cause damage to the engine due to condensation or anything else getting into the oil you are going to inject.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
How much does it cost? Here are some suggested guidelines for shelf life:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/172/lubricant-storage-life
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/172/lubricant-storage-life
biffdotorg
Active Member
Holy crap. So buying a summer's worth of oil is fine, but that oil after 3 years is probably best to take out. That was interesting, I never would have guessed.
At least I know I won't be letting any fuel or oil go stale in my boat. As long my daughter and her friends keep chasing their career goals of professional wake tubers!
At least I know I won't be letting any fuel or oil go stale in my boat. As long my daughter and her friends keep chasing their career goals of professional wake tubers!
So, I siphoned out most of the gas, and most of the oil. Took out the spark plugs, cleaned and re-gapped them, sprayed Merc fogging oil into the chambers, and replaced the plugs, and hand rotated engine a few times. I recharged the battery, cleaned up the boat, and took it out yesterday with my fingers crossed. I used shell 93 octane gas, and mixed a gal of older, but unopened Quicksilver premium oil with a gal of Mercury synthetic blend (only type the marina had). Two turns of the key, and she started right up!! Smoked liked a wet grass fire for a few seconds, but ran like a champ. Had a great day on the water!
Thanks for everyone's help!!
Thanks for everyone's help!!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Nice to hear you had a great day on the water and all went well! 
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