Something draggin on my boat?

[kilgorekb]

Another week another problem. This evening I noticed that it felt like something was dragging in the water on the port side. I could only notice it while on plane. It's probably always done this, but I just noticed it tonight because the water was glass-like calm. It only does it when traveling dead ahead. A slight turn to the right, smooth as silk. Straighten the wheel back to 12 o'clock, drag on the port side like my passenger put an oar in the water for a second... Then the drag would "release" me for a second.. then drag, then release, drag, release, roll left, straighten out, left, straight, drag, release... I was going about 30 - 40 MPH and my gas gauge needle was literally bouncing with the motion. The only thing I know to check is the grate. I'll look at it tomorrow, but wanted to post tonight in case someone has heard this sad story before.

 

[Guest_User]

Another week another problem. This evening I noticed that it felt like something was dragging in the water on the port side. I could only notice it while on plane. It's probably always done this, but I just noticed it tonight because the water was glass-like calm. It only does it when traveling dead ahead. A slight turn to the right, smooth as silk. Straighten the wheel back to 12 o'clock, drag on the port side like my passenger put an oar in the water for a second... Then the drag would "release" me for a second.. then drag, then release, drag, release, roll left, straighten out, left, straight, drag, release... I was going about 30 - 40 MPH and my gas gauge needle was literally bouncing with the motion. The only thing I know to check is the grate. I'll look at it tomorrow, but wanted to post tonight in case someone has heard this sad story before.

well the first thing to do is take a visual at everything under the boat and steering alignment between the port and starboard nozzles to. even if the weedless system grate was hanging down just a bit, those tines are so thin to really cause any issue unless it broke free and was hanging down...

 

[LouDoo]

I would check the reverse gate, make sure both springs are attached.

Lou

 

[Guest_User]

I would check the reverse gate, make sure both springs are attached.

Lou

no springs Lou, the port and starboard buckets are attached thru a horizontal tube, and the forward/neutral/reverse shift cable actuates the buckets from the Starboard side.

 

[kilgorekb]

I would check the reverse gate, make sure both springs are attached.

Lou

Would that be part #5 Lou?

 

[kilgorekb]

no springs Lou, the port and starboard buckets are attached thru a horizontal tube, and the forward/neutral/reverse shift cable actuates the buckets from the Starboard side.

Oh... I see

 

[Guest_User]

Oh... I see

the jetski reverse gates have an actual return/assist spring hooked on 2 posts to help retract and lock the reverse bucket.

our boats have that catch/lock assy. if that were to break or wear, both buckets would move, not just one bc they are tied together thru that tube. usually #12 (pawl stop) in that diagram wears down to where it is not effective.

have a look at page 273 in the service manual.

Reverse Gate Locking System
Verification and Adjustment
NOTE: Proceed with RH side on twin-pump
models.
Fully pull throttle lever (both on twin-pump models)
to idle position then pull shifter in reverse position.
Ensure reverse gate ear contacts the
stopper.
TYPICAL — IN REVERSE POSITION
1. Must touch
Fully push shifter in forward position. A latching
sound should be heard. Try pulling reverse gate
down manually. It must be locked by the latching
mechanism.
TYPICAL — IN FORWARD POSITION
1. Must be locked when manually pulling downward
2. Latching mechanism
If either check fail, readjust cable to meet both
conditions.

 

[kilgorekb]

the jetski reverse gates have an actual return/assist spring hooked on 2 posts to help retract and lock the reverse bucket.

our boats have that catch/lock assy. if that were to break or wear, both buckets would move, not just one bc they are tied together thru that tube. usually #12 (pawl stop) in that diagram wears down to where it is not effective.

have a look at page 273 in the service manual.

Reverse Gate Locking System
Verification and Adjustment
NOTE: Proceed with RH side on twin-pump
models.
Fully pull throttle lever (both on twin-pump models)
to idle position then pull shifter in reverse position.
Ensure reverse gate ear contacts the
stopper.
TYPICAL — IN REVERSE POSITION
1. Must touch
Fully push shifter in forward position. A latching
sound should be heard. Try pulling reverse gate
down manually. It must be locked by the latching
mechanism.
TYPICAL — IN FORWARD POSITION
1. Must be locked when manually pulling downward
2. Latching mechanism
If either check fail, readjust cable to meet both
conditions.

Alrighty then. I'll check out everything on the port side tomorrow (Bye-week for the Crimson Tide).. including the reverse gates and functionality checks. Thanks yall.

 

[Guest_User]

Alrighty then. I'll check out everything on the port side tomorrow (Bye-week for the Crimson Tide).. including the reverse gates and functionality checks. Thanks yall.

 

[kilgorekb]

[video=youtube_share;T7I-hWWKonQ]http://youtu.be/T7I-hWWKonQ[/video]
Rammer Jammer!!

 

[Guest_User]

that was cool!:cheers:

 

[kilgorekb]

Just checked it out and there was no smoking gun. The only thing I saw and [maybe] fixed was the port side grate. It was slightly protruding past flush about 1/2''. I turned the adjustment a few clockwise times and now it's flush. Reverse gate functionality and nozzle alignment was good.

Could this be a propulsion or carb issue? The engine did slightly bog while drag was occurring along with a hair decrease in RPM. But I attributed that to normal operation. Engine always bogs and loses RPM when the boat is rolling during a turn.

 

[Guest_User]

Just checked it out and there was no smoking gun. The only thing I saw and [maybe] fixed was the port side grate. It was slightly protruding past flush about 1/2''. I turned the adjustment a few clockwise times and now it's flush. Reverse gate functionality and nozzle alignment was good.

Could this be a propulsion or carb issue? The engine did slightly bog while drag was occurring along with a hair decrease in RPM. But I attributed that to normal operation. Engine always bogs and loses RPM when the boat is rolling during a turn.

one or the other engine will drop a few rpm`s when turning as it places more load on that pump and reduces the load on the other. But you should not feel any bog or surging when turning or heading in a straight path. You may need to re-evaluate the problem and pay close attention to what the engines are doing exactly...

when the port or starboard engine drop a little rpm during a turn, it should come right back as the boat straightens out with the same throttle position.

 

[kilgorekb]

Yea it does come right back when the drag "releases" me. The drag and bog come at the same time, so I can't say which happens 1st. And maybe I'm not using the term "bog" correctly. I mean a slightly lower frequency engine noise. I don't know. Have I provided enough information to warrant a look at something else? Or should I go test it again with the grate readjustment and get back with you afterwards?

 

[Guest_User]

Yea it does come right back when the drag "releases" me. The drag and bog come at the same time, so I can't say which happens 1st. And maybe I'm not using the term "bog" correctly. I mean a slightly lower frequency engine noise. I don't know. Have I provided enough information to warrant a look at something else? Or should I go test it again with the grate readjustment and get back with you afterwards?

at this point I would be just guessing.
this does this going straight correct? are you sure your not in the RPM range where the RAVE opens and closes, giving you that on/off feeling? The RAVE`s operate between 4800-5600 rpm depending on how they are adjusted.

Something like this will def give you a difference in exhaust note and engine sound...

if your riding in the RAVE operating rpm where they open and close simultaneously it will make the boat feel like it is doing the Cha Cha...

If all else is running well and you do reach max rpm without any other issues, such as impeller/wear ring/fueling etc etc, the test ride the boat and note rpm, speed, water conditions, and how many occupants/weight is on board.
I mention water conditions bc the engines will operate at slightly different throttle levels and the RAVE opening/closing will vary
due to engine load, engine rpm, and boat speed... there are no specific numbers to go by. just an operating range, and this system is adjustable to a certain extent...

 

[kilgorekb]

That could be it, seeing as to how it didn't happen at WOT. I cruise between 5K and 6K... and this is when I was feeling it. 30 - 40 MPH. Just me and my wife, full tank of gas, smooth water surface. I cleaned the RAVEs about a month ago, and the caps were set to factory specs, which is all the way in. I'll pop the caps and check the range of motion.. make sure nothing is sticking.

 

[kilgorekb]

But it doesn't do that if I make a slight turn to the right. Only does it when dead ahead. Would the load on the port pump @ dead ahead vs. load @ slight right turn be enough to make the port RAVE close at dead ahead vs. opening with a slight turn right? That kind of makes sense, but I don't know.

I'll adjust the port caps out 1 turn, unless you think I should go more than 1 turn.

 

[kilgorekb]

RAVEs slide like butter. I backed out the caps 1 turn. I'll test and update.

 

[Guest_User]

It comes down to preference. The tighter or more down the red adjuster the later the valve opens building more torque. The looser the adjustment, just the opposite happens, the valve opens earlier resulting in more exhaust scavenging. either way you should feel the transition.

If your going to test, adjust both engines the same amount.

I can feel the engine drop off when I banking a turn, but this also depends of what rpm I`m at when starting the turn. most of the time if I am in open water I`ll give more throttle just after I enter the turn and more as I`m exiting.

There was a secret BRP service bulletin about the rave adjustments years back... The original setting was bottoming out the red adjuster cap. The bulletin I think reads 2 turns out...

There is a lot of interesting talk on the internet about Rave valves and their operation, if you feel like googling...

* when going straight, just avoid the rpm in which the valves transition...

 

[kilgorekb]

* when going straight, just avoid the rpm in which the valves transition...

But that's my favorite RPM. :driving:

2 turns sounds like a lot. Those threads are coarse. Just 1 turn looked about 1/2 way out.

I wonder if the service bulletin means 2 notch-positions out, as opposed to 720 degrees out???

 

[Guest_User]

But that's my favorite RPM. :driving:

2 turns sounds like a lot. Those threads are coarse. Just 1 turn looked about 1/2 way out.

I`d have to go back and read my notes (forum build) to see where mine are at. I think one turn. Ya really can`t go by the threads being coarse or fine, it`s the spring pressure that really matters...

then it`s all a wear item, eventually the bellows get crappy from oil and loose their flexibility, as does the spring tension...

In rpms the 1-2 turns really doesn`t amount to much, they all play out within a few hundred rpm... and that happens quickly...

I usually cruise around 6000- 6200 rpm, if I`m in a bit of a hurry I push them to 65, otherwise I don`t beat up on the engines.

Ours gets on plane quickly and we just throttle back and cruise...

alright then, good luck on the next test cruise...:cheers:

 

[kilgorekb]

Well I picked 5000 - 5500 because that seemed to be the most fuel efficient speed. And if the water is rough, running at 6K makes it even rougher.

 

[kilgorekb]

2 turns wasn't as much as I thought it was. I turned them 2 turns. Took it out yesterday and the water was too rough to tell if I had fixed anything. I'll update whenever I get similar conditions to test.