Snapped bolt and leaking from head cover also start problems

[Onemorecast]

Where to start, first its a 97 GTX it only will start with plugs back out 1/3 of the way or more. When spark plugs are tight I get nothing it wants to go but wont turn over and run...second is after I did get it running I saw huge leak between the cylinder head cover and head cylinder, the bolt head is snapped i can just spin and spin it, so one how the hell to get bolt head out and than how to remove rest of bolt from motor to install new oring. PICS:thats snapped bolt, and other is where it pisses water from when hooked to hose

 

[Onemorecast]

Actually as for bolt I forgot they arent threaded all way so I should be able to remove rest and grab that one w pliers and remove. Still the problem of no start w spark plugs in nice and tight.

 

[racerxxx]

As for the no start, make sure all the grounds are sanded clean and the battery is a good battery. Have it load tested, even new batteries can be bad. Also if this ski was under water at any point there could be some corrosion inside the starter.

 

[Onemorecast]

It starts but only when some compression is released by backing spark plugs out from how tight they should be, almost halfway out

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, check the battery, cables and the starter. I'll assume when trying to start with the plugs in it very slow to turn over. The system has to be 100%. It could even be a bad cable. Gotta start somewhere, we see a bunch of guys in the similar situation. Where did the battery come from? And which model battery is it. You can check the draw with a meter, probe the battery and check the voltage when cranking. Battery should be like 12.6+ static, and when you crank if you dip down too far like 10V the MPEM won't even allow the coil to spark. Gotta check the basics first.

 

[Onemorecast]

Its a brand new westco AGM battery stand still its 12.4...its on tender now because of trying to crank it all day and was dipping to like 9.7ish. Was using it for past week used it alot today trying to pull fuel into newly installed fuel lines so sat it on tender POS and NEG cables for starter are also brand new marine grade copper timned 6AWG shrink tubed ends

 

[Onemorecast]

Also brand new starter, week old. Other one was submerged. Sidenote previous owner also had same problems and that was w his old junk in it, he said he would spray starter fluid (horrible) in plug holes to get it to fire up. He also used and old 2 cycle and piston heads have a fair bit of carbon buildup from what i saw through RAVE opening. Im thinking maybe that thick layer of crud on piston is monkeying w compression when plugs are fully seated. Since I have to remove top anyway I'm going to try and clean the top of pistons why I have em exposed

 

[LouDoo]

O.K. just a couple of questions. Will the motor turn over with the plugs seated all the way? If so what's the battery voltage under load? Honestly 12.4 volts with no load is not so great for a new battery and 9.7 volts under load my not be enough to let the MPEM operate correctly.

Also your new starter, if it's made in China it's junk, either rebuild the OEM starter or get a good used OEM from Nick [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]

Just for a baseline what's your compression?

You seem to have two threads going with basically the same topic, we need to either delete the other thread or merge it into this one, let me know what you want to do.

Lou

 

[Onemorecast]

Sorry [MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] we can 86 the other thread, and keep this. Yes the motor will turn over when fully seated just not fire up. Compression is 155,160...granted this is using a $40 auto zone tester I know some guys hate them but I dont have access to a expensive perhaps more accurate one. I'm going to do load test later in day and I will edit w results, and yea it indeed was a Chinese POS starter

 

[Onemorecast]

Welp short block is toast oring wall broke among ton of salt

 

[Onemorecast]

More broken stuff...