RESTO Sitting for 8 years - 1997 Seadoo speedster 717 twin - need some help getting it going!

[jwinco]

So I bought a 1997 seadoo twin 717 speedster from a guy who had it in a storage unit for 8 years. The body and seats looked to be in good shape, trailer rubber was good, engine compartment was clean and he claimed it was running when he stored it. Not having space to really get into it at the storage unit, and with a bunch of other people interested, I took a gamble and bought it knowing it would need some work. So here is what I found and what I need help on.


Disclaimer - I only know enough about engines to be dangerous. Rebuilt a carb on a motorcycle once but never messed with cylinders or anything like that before. Also my compression tester is pretty old...

Here is what I've done and found...
-Put in a new battery.
-New plugs
-Drained the little bit of remaining fuel and refilled with 15 gal of premium and 2 cans of seafoam. This is the higher cleaning strength concentration and I figured more fuel would dilute whatever might be left in the tank.
-Checked fuel filters and cleaned them. Ensured o-rings were good
-Checked fuel lines - all are pliable and in good shape
-Topped off the mix-oil tank - local seadoo dealer said it probably wouldnt need to be drained and would still be good. It was about 1/4 full.
-Starboard engine spark arrestor was clean, compression was 140 on each cylinder.
-Port engine was trouble... Bracket holding spark arrestor was broken, airbox was flopping. Removed the air box from the carb and the neck of the intake was cracked/broken off where one of the bolts attaches. The other side the bolt was stripped and the threaded hole was all worn out. I'm thinking the guy kept running it without knowing the damage and the vibration opened the hole up. Pics attached.
-Port Engine compression in front cyl was 145, but rear cyl was about 120.
-Missing the infamous rope box lid

Starting with the starboard engine, I sprayed some hand-mixed fuel/oil/seafoam into the carb to get it to catch. With hose attached it will run for a bit but dies at idle. Lots of carbon flew out of the exhaust. Did the cmpression test on this engine AFTER running it a bit but then let it cool. Going to repeat the process over the next couple days to move the seafoam/fuel through the system and hopefully clean it out a bit. Both cyl 140. I did run the compression test on the starboard side after starting the engine but then letting it cool.

Havent tried starting the port engine. I've ordered a used carb and the arrestor mounting bracket to install first. Compression test on this side was without running it at all. 145 front cyl and 120 rear cyl

So questions -

1. Am I missing anything major for trying to get this going?
2. My port engine compression difference - could that be related to testing it after sitting for 8 years? Could that change after I get it running and test again? If not, how bad is it to have the difference in those 2 cylinders?
3. Tips for getting the starboard engine to run and stay running? Wont start without a squirt of gas currently and dies at idle. Once it's running I can rev it and it keeps going, so it's getting fuel.
4. Can I run it on 1 engine to putt around a little bit while I wait on fixing the port side?
5. There is a little aluminum limiter on the starboard jet but not the port jet. The roll pin on the starboard side was coming out and the thing was dangling, making me think I maybe lost the port side. Anyone know what it does and if there are supposed to be one on each side? See Pics

Any tips and advice would be helpful. Also any leads on a rope box lid.

 

[jwinco]

Also, does anyone have a PDF shop manual for this boat?

 

[jwinco]

Fixed the broken fuel gauge today. Did the f1 fuse replacement today on the sending unit but it still wasnt working. Was able to figure out I had continuity all the way through the board until the plug (just 1 wire). There was a break somewhere in the wire where it entered the unit. I was able to cut the wires off flush, drill a new hole above the board, and solder the wires directly to the terminals at the top of the board. After that I tested and it worked great! I ended up having to patch 3 holes in it the case but overall an easy fix.

 

[jwinco]

Figured out the limiter this evening. Finally had my wife climb aboard and work the F-N-R back and forth and the missing Lever Hook on the port side is definitely needed for maintaining the deflector position. Luckily they still make them and easy to order up!

 

[jwinco]

Well, I couldnt quite wait for my replacement carb and arrestor bracket, so tapped the stripped hole in the carb and made a temporary fix to the missing bracket, and took the boat out on the water. After sitting with the seafoam in the lines both engines started right up. We ran them up to 6000rpm for awhile and played a bit to clear the engines and get a feel for the boat. This thing is FUN. After playing on the water for abut 30 minutes we brought it back. The starboard engine dies at idle so I'll have to mess with that. The left throttle doesnt stay in place and falls back to idle as soon as you release, so I'll have to figure those out. The temporary fix to the carb and arrestor mount had wiggled loose, so I'll wait till replacements arrive before I head out again. The trip was well worth it though to see that this thing will run!

 

[JeremyD615]

Well I’m glad you’re bringing another one back to life! A few things that will help though...

First, quit using Sea Foam on it. You don’t need any additional additives in these things, and the fuel systems are very finicky to any type of solvent being run through them. You also don’t need to use premium fuel in that boat, unless premium happens to be ethanol free in your area. 87 octane is fine, and preferred for these engines, although if you have to choose between 87 with ethanol and 93 without it, go ethanol free.

Second, the most important thing you can do with any Sea Doo that’s been sitting is to go through the fuel system and refresh it. These motors are very power dense, and run right on the edge from the factory. They’re reliable as long as the carbs and delivery system are in good shape, but they will self-destruct pretty quickly if you don’t keep up on maintenance. Replace your fuel selectors. They get clogged or leak pretty regularly, and cleaning them will just make them leak, so just replace them. Also, buy OEM on these... They are a PITA to get to on these boats, and the aftermarket ones have a reputation for being junk a good percentage of the time. Do this job once and do it right. Also rebuild those carbs!! Use only GENUINE Mikuni parts, and reside the old springs in them rather than the new ones in the kit. There is a sticky in the 2-stroke pwc page that needs to be followed precisely.

Third, make sure you continue to use the correct oil in the boat. Since you bought yours at the dealer, I assume it’s the XPS oil, which is correct. Continue using one brand and don’t mix them. The additive packages in different brands of oil can react and cause the oil to gel, which will plug the injection system.

 

[jwinco]

Well I’m glad you’re bringing another one back to life! A few things that will help though...

First, quit using Sea Foam on it. You don’t need any additional additives in these things, and the fuel systems are very finicky to any type of solvent being run through them. You also don’t need to use premium fuel in that boat, unless premium happens to be ethanol free in your area. 87 octane is fine, and preferred for these engines, although if you have to choose between 87 with ethanol and 93 without it, go ethanol free.

Second, the most important thing you can do with any Sea Doo that’s been sitting is to go through the fuel system and refresh it. These motors are very power dense, and run right on the edge from the factory. They’re reliable as long as the carbs and delivery system are in good shape, but they will self-destruct pretty quickly if you don’t keep up on maintenance. Replace your fuel selectors. They get clogged or leak pretty regularly, and cleaning them will just make them leak, so just replace them. Also, buy OEM on these... They are a PITA to get to on these boats, and the aftermarket ones have a reputation for being junk a good percentage of the time. Do this job once and do it right. Also rebuild those carbs!! Use only GENUINE Mikuni parts, and reside the old springs in them rather than the new ones in the kit. There is a sticky in the 2-stroke pwc page that needs to be followed precisely.

Third, make sure you continue to use the correct oil in the boat. Since you bought yours at the dealer, I assume it’s the XPS oil, which is correct. Continue using one brand and don’t mix them. The additive packages in different brands of oil can react and cause the oil to gel, which will plug the injection system.

Thanks for your response and some guidance non this! So you think it's worth replacing then fuel selectors regardless of them seeming to work ok currently? Also, I'm new to forums and I'm having a hell of a time finding the guide for rebuilding then carbs - do you have a link? Looking at the carb kits, it's significantly more complicated than the one motorcycle carb I rebuilt years ago and want to make sure I have step by step help the rebuild. Thanks for your help!

 

[jwinco]

Disregard the link request - just found the rebuild post!

 

[JeremyD615]

I would go ahead and replace the fuel selectors. They get clogged up or leak pretty regularly, so just get that one over with and you’ll know they are good. You have to pull the throttle quadrant to get to them, and it’s not fun. Do that job while you’re still motivated!

 

[Kenrussell3]

Also, does anyone have a PDF shop manual for this boat?

You can get one for free on-line.