ShoreLand'r trailer parts

[wayneh]

My SeaDoo came on a ShoreLand'r trailer, model SD-V1417. I'm trying to find wiring grommets for it.

My wiring got chewed up by mice in the garage over the winter and in the course of replacing the wiring, I was hoping to replace the 7 rubber grommets that protect the wiring where it passes in/out of the frame. The frame holes are 7/8" and the steel is about 1/8" thick.

ShoreLand'r shows the grommets as part no. 3510030 but won't direct me to a source. "You have to have a dealer order them for you." No thanks. There are some online sources but the price is kinda silly.
Shorelander 3510030 Wiring Grommets - 3/8-inch Inner Diameter - 2 Pack

Anyone know of a suitable replacement, or a decent source for these?

 

[OldSkis]

try any parts house, by the doorman replacement parts you should be able to find an assortment of body grommets to use

 

[wayneh]

I ended up just re-using the old grommets. Some are a bit stiff and showing age but they still do their job.

My rewiring went fine. I ended up getting new LED taillights via Amazon, Optronics TLL56RK.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LGMQG4
They're a great replacement for the ones that came with the Shoreland'r trailer. Not an absolutely perfect fit but good within an 1/8" or so and no special fitting required - just tighten the bolts and you're done.

The wiring that came with the lights did the job but it's really cheap wiring. And it had no connector for the little lights up front on the front sides of the trailer. So I had to splice in connections. Like many wiring sets, the ground (white) wire was far too short. My ground screw is several feet back from the hitch and the little white wire that came with this set barely reached from the car to the hitch.

I like the brighter, faster responding LEDs and increased safety has to be part of justifying the cost of this upgrade. That, and no more burnt out lightbulbs.

 

[Steve762us]

Just use wire loom, instead of grommets, and cover all the exposed wiring, and force the loom into
channel areas as far as you can push it. I like taping the entire length of loom shut, on trailer
harnesses. Uses a lot of tape and loom, but I've done a half dozen trailer re-wire's (mine and
friends) and the harness has never been a failure point on any of them, yet.

I always add a separate ground wire to the harnesses that rely on frame connections for ground.
It works, and always works. The side lights are nice, but are a real pinta if you do good waterproof,
soldered connections. I did em on my first re-wire, and skipped em since then!

 

[OldSkis]

Just use wire loom, instead of grommets, and cover all the exposed wiring, and force the loom into
channel areas as far as you can push it. I like taping the entire length of loom shut, on trailer
harnesses. Uses a lot of tape and loom, but I've done a half dozen trailer re-wire's (mine and
friends) and the harness has never been a failure point on any of them, yet.

I always add a separate ground wire to the harnesses that rely on frame connections for ground.
It works, and always works. The side lights are nice, but are a real pinta if you do good waterproof,
soldered connections. I did em on my first re-wire, and skipped em since then!

I agree about putting the ground direct to the trailer. I use a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw. I've never had ground issues since I started doing that.

 

[Steve762us]

I agree about putting the ground direct to the trailer. I use a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw. I've never had ground issues since I started doing that.

Could be ok in fresh water, will corrode way up the ground wire---as in all the way into
the lamp assembly, in salt.