Self- vs. Shop- Maintenance (Coolant, pump, etc.)

[BMoreE]

Hi all DIYers... wondering about your experiences with things other than the oil/spark-plug/fogging/flushing winterization procedure. I did all that myself last year, and everything went great in the Spring.

But now I'm at the 2-yr/100-hr mark, and the chart recommends coolant flush and inspecting a bunch of stuff that I know less about. (2013 GTI-SE155)

I discovered an answer to my coolant-flush question here: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57263-Winterize-Coolant-Replacement

I actually talked to a reputable shop tech at a SeaDoo DEALER who was unaware of the shop-manual recommendation of running the system 15 minutes and then letting the coolant system soak in the cleaner for 12-16 hours... they just flush with mineral water as described in that thread, then refill. So, maybe that's no big deal over the long term - any other experiences?

However, another step he said they do: remove the jet pump, inspect the wear ring & pump for water/debris. I'm definitely not doing that on my own (watch the you tube video... that looks like a dicey operation that I'd never get back together!) Has anyone ever had any problems as a result of not doing that inspection?

Another item: inspecting and tightening the cables, clamps, hoses, etc. I'm no mechanic - what should I look for other than blatent broken or cracked stuff? Are there particular bolts that one should tighten?

I'm actually afraid to take to a shop to let them do this full tear-down & inspect - I figure that's just another source of mistakes that can end up creating problems down the road.

Love the forum, thanks everyone for sharing!

 

[red2blue]

However, another step he said they do: remove the jet pump, inspect the wear ring & pump for water/debris. I'm definitely not doing that on my own (watch the you tube video... that looks like a dicey operation that I'd never get back together!) Has anyone ever had any problems as a result of not doing that inspection?

Another item: inspecting and tightening the cables, clamps, hoses, etc. I'm no mechanic - what should I look for other than blatent broken or cracked stuff? Are there particular bolts that one should tighten?

I'm actually afraid to take to a shop to let them do this full tear-down & inspect - I figure that's just another source of mistakes that can end up creating problems down the road.

Love the forum, thanks everyone for sharing!

Pullin the pump....removing cone..checking/replacing contaminated grease....reassembling and remounting....I can do in an hr easy...so can you, your second time. Tweeking the prop...add another 30-60min depending on how anal you are on the bends.

Put a screw/socket driver on every clamp...and check. Oetiker clamps eh...just make sure you can't move. Check all hoses for cracks.

Everyone's ski is a bit different...has their own....I dunno....foibles.

Once you get in there...after every ride....you'll become familiar with it...recognize changes. Then...you can be like I used to be....worried over every little hiccup...mishandling....vibration...till they are all solved...and she runs like a raped ape whenever you want...or until you're confident in it's performance...like a familiar and well used firearm...each and every time you pull the trigger.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I actually talked to a reputable shop tech at a SeaDoo DEALER who was unaware of the shop-manual recommendation of running the system 15 minutes and then letting the coolant system soak in the cleaner for 12-16 hours... they just flush with mineral water as described in that thread, then refill. So, maybe that's no big deal over the long term - any other experiences?

You will find that very few actually do the “cleaner” method. I take my ski to the ramp to get it nice and hot and do the following. This is how I do my vehicles, I will do the same for my ski but likely slightly modified depending on how it drains. Run it to get it nice and hot making sure the coolant was circulating, pour in powder detergent (dish soap), seal it up and go for a ride. I’d come back to the shop, drop the lower hose and let it dump (we had a tank it all drained to). Slide the hose back on, start the engine, turn the garden hose on and fill it and let it over-fill while it was running. This would help flush whatever didn’t come out. Turn off the hose, drop the lower hose and then add antifreeze.


However, another step he said they do: remove the jet pump, inspect the wear ring & pump for water/debris. I'm definitely not doing that on my own (watch the you tube video... that looks like a dicey operation that I'd never get back together!) Has anyone ever had any problems as a result of not doing that inspection?

This, as mentioned above, is one of the simplest things there is to do on a ski. If you have VTS and IBR there is a little more work, but still pretty easy. I can absolutely promise you that the hardest part is saying “ok, lets do this,,,” Once you do it, you will be shocked how easy it is.


Another item: inspecting and tightening the cables, clamps, hoses, etc. I'm no mechanic - what should I look for other than blatent broken or cracked stuff? Are there particular bolts that one should tighten?

Normally these are fine until they are not. Every few years I like to go over things VERY well. Cables and connections are one of the items I inspect. You want to look for any corrosion, powder looking build-up, physically loose connections. I like to unbolt them, grab the end with my fingers and wiggle it around. It should not crunch or have any powder residue come out. If either happens, replace the cable. Clamps, check them for tightness. As mentioned, I like to use a ¼ ratchet with an extension. You will get a good feel for the tightness.

 

[3ftDeep]

Welcome to the forum. Most of the 100 hr service procedures can be found here ....
https://youtu.be/kCEVRg0zr80

 

[BMoreE]

Cool, thanks for the tips and the votes of confidence. I'm still not convinced I want to pull that sucker apart yet after only a few seasons unless someone thinks its crucial (Again to my "if it ain't broke, don't give it a reason" philosophy.)

I'm not sure what an "Oetiker clamp" is, but did see them referenced in some of the docs.

Speaking of which - 2013 shop manual: included in the premium section of this forum or not? I didn't see it in the list, but I haven't reg'd/paid yet (and won't if it's not!)

Another question about the manuals accessible here: are the pictures well-scanned, or are they blurry/pixelated? I've seen scanned shop manuals that weren't much use since the pics were poor.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

99% of the shop manuals you'll find are digital pdf, not grainy, but certainly not the best either. Perhaps your used to seeing scanned pages of a Clymer Manual or something which I agree, kind of suck.

If your hesitant to do it yourself, its really just a matter of finding the right guy, and IMO the dealer is the last option on my list certainly not the first unless its warranty work. I don't consider myself mechanically inclined (6 out of 10 at best) so for all but minor stuff I don't hesitate, I just take it in, get it done right and get back to riding. The guy I use is very fair, knows his stuff and $100 in labor generally goes a long way. It does help that I usually know exactly what is wrong before I contact him, so I'm not asking him to chase around gremlins but rather just fix X. I had him do a steering cable for me 2 months back, I had never done one on a 4 stroke, labor was $80, got the ski back the next day, well worth it IMO.

 

[red2blue]

Cool, thanks for the tips and the votes of confidence. I'm still not convinced I want to pull that sucker apart yet after only a few seasons unless someone thinks its crucial (Again to my "if it ain't broke, don't give it a reason" philosophy...

If you still have the nose cone on the prop and ride in fresh water you should check the pump cone at least once a year. If you have a prop cone and ride in salt....I'd check it more often. If you don't have a nose cone on the prop and ride in salt I'd check the pump cone after every ride...and at the very least every few rides in fresh.

 

[BMoreE]

If you still have the nose cone on the prop

I assume it's still there! GTI-SE155?

and ride in salt

Yup, brackish Potomac river.

So now I'm scared - I'll have to dig around for some videos on what one actually looks for and does when inspecting then replacing. I think I saw it's just a few O-rings and a slop-load of grease?

 

[red2blue]

You're looking for contaminated grease. Lighter cloudyish colored...as opposed to dark/clear.

 

[Jaybeaux]

BMoreE.....I have a 2010 GTX 155 that has lived its entire life on the lower Potomac River. I just rebuilt/replaced the drive line for the drive shaft spline issue. The bearing grease in my nose cone was just fine. Of course, it was just replaced.

My mechanic complemented me of the degree of corrosion protection I have on my ski. I use copious amounts of Fluid Film. For me, it has worked well.

Jaybeaux


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BMoreE]

BMoreE.....I have a 2010 GTX 155 that has lived its entire life on the lower Potomac

Well howdy neighbor!

Thanks for the advice, I'll have to look up that spline issue for the future.