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seized? - oil cable came loose

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justinius

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hello again!!!

its been awhile since I have been on here... and can not remember my old password...

SO for the past year, the my 96 GTX with 787 has been operating flawlessly... on its rebuilt engine (last summer 20 operating hours)...

anyways... last weekend the oil line became disconnected (the L shapped nipple popped off where it goes into the oil pump. Fortunatly the low oil light came on which made me stop and see the bilge was full of oil, SO no damage was done...

SO i fixed the oil hose, re-primed the oil system... AND went out yesturday for SEAFAIR in Seattle... about 10 minutes past, and the engine SEIZED.

come to find out, the cable that opens/closes the oil pump valve slipped off the half circle part... So it was in the closed position, and was not feeding oil.

So i know what caused the SEIZE, but what is SEIZED? pistons? crank? will this be ANOTHER complete rebuild?

any advise is appreciated... thanks.
 
This could be a problem if it seized when it got hot from lack of oil. It could have caused severe heat failure of the crank and bearings. The best thing to do is pull off the topend and look inside at how bad the damage is. Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl
 
Thanks for your reply... i do have the seadoo shop manual... Looks like i will pull apart the top of the engine and see what damage was done... ugh...

from what you say, chances are this will be a COMPLETE rebuild rather than just a top end rebuild... bummer, looks like i will pull the engine out this weekend then...

can the top be pulled apart so i can look with out removing the engine from the hull... or do you recommend to just pull the engine as it will prob have to come out eventually anyways?
 
If you pull the top end and the sizure is just the rings and not a bad full heat related seizure, you could be just replacing the top end. If the pistons are melted from getting real hot, chances are it will need a complete tear down or a replacement engine from a re-manufactured company. You could try and pull the top end off in the hull, but its easier with more room out of the hull.

Keep us posted.

Karl
 
I could be wrong on this but, from what Ive learned is when the oil pump cable is not connected the disk flopps over and around from the spring tension and is in full injection. But, if the cable came loose and didn't completely come off it could've slipped past the alignment mark a little to keep it at low oil rate even when you gave it full throttle.

I thought this was the case with mine but from pulling the engine to rebuild I found a few problems that caused the hole in the piston.

I took my oil pump off when I had the engine out and tested it with it in that position and found the oil was coming out at the same rate as with it in the full position that the cable would have it in at WOT.

I would pull the engine outif your gonna rebuild topend. You'll probably find something else wrong and you'll gain a ton of experience with your seadoo.:cheers:
 
I could be wrong on this but, from what Ive learned is when the oil pump cable is not connected the disk flopps over and around from the spring tension and is in full injection. But, if the cable came loose and didn't completely come off it could've slipped past the alignment mark a little to keep it at low oil rate even when you gave it full throttle.

I thought this was the case with mine but from pulling the engine to rebuild I found a few problems that caused the hole in the piston.

I took my oil pump off when I had the engine out and tested it with it in that position and found the oil was coming out at the same rate as with it in the full position that the cable would have it in at WOT.

I would pull the engine outif your gonna rebuild topend. You'll probably find something else wrong and you'll gain a ton of experience with your seadoo.:cheers:

i was wondering about that, cause some oil would still have to go through even at idol... unfortunatly, a friend of mine was the one actually riding it when it blew...

he said it lost power... so he left it WOT, and then finally it died.

i will pull it out of the hull... just incase the lowerend is fried also... guess i;ll find out soon.
 
That is the easiest way to pull the engine apart. You'll have lots more room too.

Karl
 
PLAN B?

i read somewhere once last summer (and i can not find now) that the 787 engine and the 951 engine are essentially the exact same motor mounts, ignition, electrical... (excpet for displacement)

is this true, is this a direct bolt on/off swap out? is there really that noticable power difference (110 hp to 130hp)

AND because it looks like i need to do a complete rebuild, i am thinking maybe i should just invest a few bucks more... for a bigger engine... but before i go in over my head, I would like to know what all would have to be changed out.

any help or stories??? tried to do a search, but didnt come up with anything on 787 to 951 swap

THANKS!
 
fast way to see

take out the spark plug and the cover for the shaft if you can't turn it with your hand and can't see if the pistons move a little then its seized if does move a little you might get away with pouring marv's mistery oil down booth spark plug holes let it sit for a day or two then try to move it agian if it moves try to turn it over thats what i did when mine was seized and it works great
 
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