Seadoo wont turn Right

[Thraex]

Hey guys,
I own a Seadoo challenger 1800 EFI and I beleive this must be a rigging issue, just wanted to hear your opinion about it.
So I was in the water last weekend for the first time with the boat, at low speed i have no problem turning right but when I start pushing it at high speed, it really doesnt want to go right, is it normal that i have to play with the trim just to turn right.

Thanks for your advice on this

Dave

 

[Dr Honda]

The outer sheath on the steering cable probably broke free from the housing. OR... the mounting hardware came apart, and the cable is moving.


On the Port side of your pump... you will see the cable. Pull the boot back, and there should be a metal extension to support the cable. I'm betting it came out, and is moving with the cable. In turn... the cable is flexing.

 

[gerrychuck]

Very helpful! I had exactly the same thing happen to me this weekend, and had been assuming it was because I had messed with the angle of the ride plate. Very timely question and answer. So, is the probable problem easy to fix?

 

[Dr Honda]

Very helpful! I had exactly the same thing happen to me this weekend, and had been assuming it was because I had messed with the angle of the ride plate. Very timely question and answer. So, is the probable problem easy to fix?

Yes...


replace the cable.

It's not a hard job... but there is some reaching/stretching involved, to fish the new cable in place.

 

[gerrychuck]

Checked the cable on my boat today; metal tube the cable runs in from the transom to the steering nozzle is not attached at the transom. This is exactly what you (Dr. Honda) were referring to, yes?

 

[Dr Honda]

Ummmm....

Probably. Post a pic.

 

[gerrychuck]

Can't, unfortunately. I was standing in water up to my chest with the boat on an airdock, and didn't want to bring my phone into the water. I'll try to describe what I saw better: I pulled the boot forward, exposing the cable which was running inside a metal tube. The tube appeared to have originally been solidly attached to a flat piece at the transom, but was not fixed to anything when I checked it; it was loose and could be slid back and forth on the cable a couple of inches freely. Hope that helps.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK...


I think the "Transom" wording is throwing me. The transom is the fiberglass, behind the pump. And... there is only a rubber boot (looking on the inside) clamped to the outer cable jacket.

If the rubber boot you are talking about is the one, close to nozzle end, that moves in and out with the cable... then yes... the metal part is the shive. It should be attached to outer cable jacket.

If that's not fixed... then the flexible part of the cable can bend, and it cant "Push" the nozzle.

 

[gerrychuck]

Sorry for the improper terminology; I am referring to the external, bellows-like boot that runs from the hull (where the cable exits) to the termination on the port side of the nozzle. The mobile tube that appears to be broken loose from the fitting at the hull would be, I believe, what you are referring to as the outer cable jacket. I'm assuming this means replacing the cable? One more thing; the boot itself appears to be cracked; it certainly has water in it, which squishes out toward the middle of the boot when the wheel is turned to the left and the cable is retracted into the hull, compressing and shortening the bellows. I'm assuming a new boot comes with the new cable?

 

[Dr Honda]

No... the boot doesn't come with the cable. But... you need to replace it to help keep the water out.

 

[jocii]

I just found this thread and am experiencing the same issue. I followed your advice and discovered the shive, as you call it, free floating under the rubber bellows boot. I was able to tap it back into place but it obviously will not last like that. Question for you... do you suppose one could use JB Weld to attach the shive to the outer sheath of the cable? If I did do this it would be only be a temporary fix to maybe get me through the next month. Here in Maine another month will tie up my boating season. Let me know what you think. - Thanks

 

[gerrychuck]

I was wondering the same thing, particularly since I have discovered that the cable has become almost impossible to get; my local Seadoo dealer has it listed as discontinued and unavailable, and Seadoowarehouse has it listed as backordered with no date for having it in stock or deliverable. Seems like some kind of repair or fabrication may be needed or I (we!) will be screwed for this season.

 

[Tim75]

Try here:
http://www.lewismarine.com/show_catalogpage.php?Book=Base&Year=2011&Page=674

There are other sources- The cable is just a heavy duty control cable.

 

[gerrychuck]

I see West Marine has some Teleflex options as well; what is the length of the cable on the Challenger 2000? Would I need the cable and the Mercury nozzle connection kit as well?

 

[gerrychuck]

Here we go:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321110491581?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


Direct replacement, and $40 cheaper than the best price I could find for the nonexistent cable direct from Seadoo. Every once in a while ebay comes through nicely.

 

[Dr Honda]

I just found this thread and am experiencing the same issue. I followed your advice and discovered the shive, as you call it, free floating under the rubber bellows boot. I was able to tap it back into place but it obviously will not last like that. Question for you... do you suppose one could use JB Weld to attach the shive to the outer sheath of the cable? If I did do this it would be only be a temporary fix to maybe get me through the next month. Here in Maine another month will tie up my boating season. Let me know what you think. - Thanks

I actually did that with my reverse cable, and it worked for a while. (just tapping it back in) You can't use JB Weld on it. The outer sheath has to be able to pivot slightly to keep the cable in-line with the part that is moving.

I've thought of putting a small section of a more rigid rubber hose over that section, and putting a clamp on both sides. That would keep it from pushing out... but the rubber would still pivot. THEN... you could still clamp the corrugated boot on it, to keep the water out.


If there isn't any damage to the cable... I guess a simple swedging tool could be made, to re-crimp the cable end. But, the housing is still warn, so that may make it too tight.

Try here:
http://www.lewismarine.com/show_catalogpage.php?Book=Base&Year=2011&Page=674

There are other sources- The cable is just a heavy duty control cable.

Yep... you are right. If you remove the old cable... you can find somthign that will work, since they are semi-generic. We have "Teleflex" steering, and a "Mercury" engine. Neither are seadoo specific.

 

[jocii]

Thank you for your response. While planning out the JB Weld option I did notice it does pivot so nailing it in place probably wouldn't be the best thing to do. I like your idea of clamping the rubber hose over it to act as a stabilizer. I might give that a try.